Questions about 30HP EFI four stroke

[AGENT 37]

This past weekend I purchased a used Japanese motor Model Number: 1A3G312EK / Serial Number: OR568876 manufactured in 2013

It was a remote control setup but the seller had no controls or cables so we couldn't start it. I did a compression check using the manual starter rope, inspected the oil, and lower unit lube without seeing any concerns. I put some fresh fuel to it and made a few pulls just to see if it would start. It requires a start in gear protection circuit and being that it is set up for a remote I assumed it wouldn't start without this and the "key on" circuit completed.

I ordered a used factory service manual for it the other day and it is on its way. I'm hoping to identify what pins/wires need to be jumpered on the control harness plug in order for me to test run it before either dumping the money into buying controls or a $670 tiller kit. Would anybody care to help me figure this out while I am eagerly anticipating the arrival of my manual with the wiring diagram? I did it with the Honda BF150 I bought this way a few years ago and it just made me feel so much better about my investment.

Also, I found the tiller conversion kit for this motor but I'm not sure what control box and harness I should shop for if I decide to go that route. The female plug on the control harness doesn't match up to anything I've found in my research. I realize its a Tohatsu motor; would a newer Tohatsu control harness and control box be compatible?

 

[AGENT 37]

Amplifying info: the control harness connector on this motor is a 14 pin female mounted on the upper starboard side of the power head, 10 pins are used. Pins and wire colors are:
A- RED
B -BLACK
D- BROWN / WHITE DASH
E- GREEN / WHITE
H- BLUE
J- PINK
K- BROWN / WHITE
L- YELLOW
M- WHITE
N- GREEN

Is there typically an "umbilical" harness connected to this that runs within the confines of the motor cowl?

 

[Yegboats]

http://www.iboats.com/Side-Mount-Rem...view_id.351218
881170a16 is the control w/o trim. That 14 pin connector is pretty standard for 2006 and newer non dts 25-300Hp mercs.
The one in the link has a trim switch you probably won't need. That control uses gen I type cables. There are other control designs like panel mounts, and console mounts. The ignition harness on these designes are sold seperate. If you wanted to hook a tach up to the control harness the analog tach harness number is 84-892990t01 thats the 5' one other lenghts are available.
8m0051062 converts ERC to EH I've heard that the gas assist isn't the best for tillers but I don't have experience with that.

 

[AGENT 37]

Thanks for the info. So I'm guessing there is no "umbilical" harness needed for this application

I kinda have to chuckle considering your comment about the gas assist not being the best for tillers. My experience with TnT on a tiller motor was a 40 Merc EFI four stroke on a 14' rigid inflatable; while doing a performance test run, I trimmed the motor up to find the "sweet spot" for a top speed. I wound up trimming high enough to lose controlability, the boat started chine walking and the tiller started beating the crap out of me. It felt like I was going to get my arm broken and flip the boat or get thrown out. Throttling down was not happening so it came to pulling the kill cord. So the power trim and tilt would be a nice convenience but I don't need to fine tune myself into that type of a performance range again!

I understand you don't have experience with gas assist on tiller configuration but could you share why it might not be the best? Is it a matter of convenience or have you heard of performance/safety issues? I'm kinda leaning toward setting it up with a tiller. All the tiller motors I've run of the thus far have been manual tilt without gas assist.... including a 75 Enduro with a bad gas assist cylinder. Gas assist might be kind of a nice move up in the world for me!

It's going to be a "financial moral challenge" to buy a $700 tiller, but I'd be racking up an even bigger bill getting a remote, harness, and power TnT kit to make it worthwhile to set it up for RC. Having it set up remote without trim and tilt would be annoying.

 

[Yegboats]

I guess the ignition harness is kinda like an umbilical harness. No issues. I think it's just a matter of preferance . Sorry I coudln't help but laughing at your assault by outboard. I think you have the right idea maybe shop around see if you can find a dealer who has had one in stock a while and wants to clear it out never hurts to ask.

 

[AGENT 37]

What I meant by "umbilical harness" is a short adapter harness that goes between one style of wiring harness connector to another. I have a 2005 225 Mercaha that had such a harness. It was about a foot long and converted the harness from the Yamaha connector on the engine to the merc harness for the controls. I got rid of it and just hooked up my Yamaha control harness directly to the motor. I was wondering if the connector on the EFI 30 that I recently got needed something like that. My understanding is that it is a Tohatsu made motor and I thought maybe that connector was Tohatsu OEM. The wire colors on the harness match up to the wiring diagrams that I have in my Nissan 2 stroke factory service manual but don't align with colors listed in the manual I have for Merc 4 strokes up to 2004.

There's no chance somebody on here has it already and can help me verify what connections need to be jumpered to get it to start is there?

What I see in my old Nissan manual consistently shows that Red and blue need to have continuity and green gets energized for the start circuit. It shows brown to black for the stop circuitry.

I'm still impatiently waiting for this new manual to show up..... tracking info still shows it in Minnesota. It's not like I can just spend the weekend hanging out on a beach chair here on Oahu.

 

[AGENT 37]

Here's the latest, I pulled the VST off, cleaned it out, and got the high pressure fuel pump turning with 12VDC. It was stiff to begin with but I was able to coax it to turn by gently working the impeller back and forth with a scribe prior to applying power.

I couldn't blow any air whatsoever through the fuel pressure regulator and still have no fuel pressure building on the fuel injector rail. What's the appropriate procedure to test the fuel pressure regulator? My buddy lent me a Seloc manual while I'm waiting on my Mercury factory service manual to show up it doesn't offer much info on the pressure regulator.

 

[AGENT 37]

Update: I purchased three new fuel injectors, flushed out the fuel system, replaced injectors, hot wired the fuel pump with a battery to prime the fuel system then pulled twice on the starter rope and she runs.

Hooking jumper cables to the pos terminal on the starter relay and ground and jumpering the red and green wires also cranks the motor over to start, no other connections needed. shorting the brown and the black bullet connectors closes the appropriate stop circuit to shut the engine down.

I'll be starting another thread regarding tiller options available for this motor.