40 merc draining oil reservor into block

Merc40fisher

Cadet
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
14
hey guys, my 2005 40 HP 2cycle 3 cyl. keeps bleeding the oil from the tank into the block. itll drain a full tank of oil in a week or so. it'll start draining out the prop and all over the lower unit so I know its going directly into the block, spark plugs are good, carbs are clean. only thing I could think was its going through the oil pump into the block. so I removed the oil pump and found that the factory had pinched and cut one of the o rings behind the pump. but it still doesn't really make sense. iv had a few problems with this oil system so I want to by pass all together. since I cant seem to find a merc block plate and you cant pull the gear out of the block, any suggestions on how I could do this? can I just bypass it and leave it alone? or will the gear, bushings and oil pump wear out with no lube and destroy it self?? any help would be appreciated. Now Im off to find out why all my wire connections keep burning up. thanks guys
 

Grub54891

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
5,915
Why don't you simply repair the torn o-ring and see if the problem goes away?
 

Merc40fisher

Cadet
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
14
I honestly just had my heart set on deleting the whole thing. Iv had to unplug the low alarm from the beginning. And have had problems with the cap on the tank. I really don't have much trust in the motor altogether. When it runs... Man it'll run. But then it's another month or so of problems. It was my grandpas boat that he bought new and dropped it in the water maybe 5 times. So it was still new when I got it. And plus our Mercury mechanics around here are pretty terrible. I had to bring the 2 psi check valve to the dealer to prove my motor had one cause she couldnt find it on the computer and the mechanics just said "I don't know". And No one seems to be able to tell me why all my wire connections keep melting.
 

Grub54891

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
5,915
Could we get some pics of the wiring in question? Mostly it helps us a lot to have the model and serial numbers of the motor to narrow down where to troubleshoot your issues.
 

Merc40fisher

Cadet
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
14
I replaced all the yellow wire connections. It seems the red now needs to be replaced. You can see the new connections startin to burn also. Iv bee. Researching this for a while now. I believe I'll order a new regulator. At the same time I ran across a post about using deep cycles as starting batteries will do this because they cannot handle the high voltage so the connections will burn. What are your thoughts on that?
 

Merc40fisher

Cadet
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
14
No Title
 

Attachments

  • photo253239.JPG
    photo253239.JPG
    127.1 KB · Views: 0
  • photo253240.JPG
    photo253240.JPG
    83.7 KB · Views: 0
  • photo253241.JPG
    photo253241.JPG
    124.4 KB · Views: 0

Grub54891

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
5,915
Geeze that's ugly. I'd go through the ground wires also, physically removing them, cleaning them completely and re-attaching. A nasty back feed can cause all kinds of issues. A factory shop manual would get you the proper test procedures for the electrical problems.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,618
First quit using them cheap aluminum connectors as they wont hold any amperage, then check rectifier/regulator to see if any good. Then replace oil cap and check to see if oil pump seal has backed out as this is only way oil can enter crankcase. If carbs are being filled with oil then its the check valve problem...
 
Top