my tell tale and I'm assuming your talking about it peeing?? It is a pretty strong stream but before all this happened, I did get some crud up in the intake and it stopped up the pee hole. I eventually got it cleared out with a coat hanger and it's been peeing good since. I took it to the lake a couple days ago to see how it would run after changing out the primer bulb and it's lines and still the same thing. it seems like it's in a safety mode or something but from a few things I've read, mercury doesn't have a safety mode but to answer your question, the motor was hot afterwards but it wasn't so hot you couldn't put your hand on it. I just don't understand what I'm missing because the boat runs fine, it just won't reach full RPM and full speed. I did put a new prop on it a while back and I lost roughly 400 rpm after doing that but it ran fine for a while after I did that and it ran fine for a few days after the first bogging down incident. Thanks for any help
I just finished dealing with the exact same issue with my 1988 70hp Mercury. The party I purchased my boat/motor and trailer from disabled the oil injection system. I was out a couple weeks ago and the horn sounded. Obviously an overheat problem. Since then I rebuilt all 3 carburetors. I learned that it is difficult to find out exactly what size fuel lines to use. They may be tight but could still be leaking. The mechanic said to use fuel lines that are equal to the port opening on carburetors. I now use 5/32nd lines between carbs. Also, the float on one of my carburetors was 4/16" they are supposed to be 7/16" I adjusted it to proper spec.engine fired up on first turn of the key.
Here is what I've done to date.
1. checked all fuel connections. Ended up installing all new lines. If you have a fuel enrichment valve don't forget to check those lines as well.
2. rebuilt the fuel pump.
3. completely disassembled all three carburetors soaked them overnight in carburetor cleaner, installed new idle screws and needle valves on floats, adjusted floats to specification
4. Installed new primer bulb and oriented it vertical to boat floor
5. Reduced the length of the supply line on the motor side of the primer bulb and then lightly secured the line to throttle cables to remove stress on the clip connection
6. Dropped the lower unit. I purchased my boat/motor/trailer in December 2014. I was told that water pump service was done that year, WRONG. I pulled the lower unit it was caked with mud so badly that I couldn't clean the cover plate and had to replace it for $85.00 remarkably my local boat yard had just one left. When I fired up the motor the stream was double what it was prior. Just because it's peeing doesn't mean the motor is being cooled properly.
I'm no mechanic either but I think if you attend to these 6 steps you may solve the problem. And as a final check, evaluate the condition of the thermostat. Most references I've seen indicate thermostat is an unlikely failure but it does happen. Given the age of my boat that is my next replacement regardless of condition. In my estimation it probably is as old as the motor.
As a final note, you will find a lot of good information when you post on this site. One word of advice. If something doesn't seem right, STOP ask for help. Making a mistake without confident solutions could be very costly