03 merc 6hp won't start, carb is clean

rdrider04

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Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
6
Hi there,
I have been reading all the posts on this type of topic and everyone v says fuel/carb, but I don't think that is the problem.
I have had my engine for 4 years without issue. It always starts first or second pull. The carb was never cleaned, nearly never run out of fuel, but like I said, never any problem.
The issues started 3 weeks ago running the motor on my sailboat 3. In the middle of the day, the engine would want to die anywhere near idle. This was totally new. Later we ran the motor wot as usual with any further issue, but the oil pressure light was coming on sporadically. The next day I changed the oil but I apparently filled it way too full. It was dark out when I filled it so I couldn't see the oil line on the dipstick I guess.
I tried to start it at that point but if course it wouldn't start with so much oil. After reading the forums, I thought maybe the carb was dirty so i cleaned it and put it back on the motor. No change, then I changed the oil again to the proper level and I went through the carb again. The engine would generally just sneeze but not fire. I adjusted the mix screw and still no change, although on the 50th pull sometimes it would start for a few seconds then die, but generally would just sneeze.
I checked compression; about 60 psi. I thought maybe spark so i looked for it during the day but of course could not see anything, but i could see the spark whe l i looked at night, I checked timing, it looked alright. I thougt maybe the electrical components are bad so tested the ignition coil which tested 5200 ohms instead of 4400 per the manual, but so did two other engines and i asked two shops and they both said they don't carry that part or ever change it so i don't know what to make of that.
I went through the carb again and adjusted the float level per the manual; 9 to 10 mm off the top of the carb bowl. All the Jets were clear. The carb bowl fills with gas .
The engine won't start even on starting fluid through the carb or in the plug hole even after 100 pulls It will fire "put put put" when the cord is being pulled but nothing else and it doesn't sneeze much but occasionally backfires a little or smokes through the carb.
The plug is a new ngk r as specified.
I don't know what else to do... can anybody help.?
 

alldodge

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Staff member
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Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,754
Not an outboard guy, but I don't think your getting enough spark. Get a spark gap gauge and check with it. The spark should be easy to see.

Seeing you changed the oil I'm guessing this is a 4 stroke model, correct?
 

rdrider04

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Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
6
So, a little update, first, the motor is a single cylinder 4 stroke.
A friend brought over his identicle motor which starts right up but leaks oil from the lower unit somewhere. .... anyway, we swapped the carb and ignition coil which tests about 5400 ohms (out of spec) and my motor has no change.
The question is; what next?
I am thinking about swapping the cdi and testing the stator coils. My friend said maybe the valves are way out of adjustment but I don't know how that condition could arise?
The simplified question is; what part of the ignition system is most likely to fail?

As an aside regarding compression, I tested my friends motor and it tests 20 psi where mine tests closer to 60 psi, so maybe there is s very wide range in workable compression.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,305
Those compression numbers indicate problems with -------Technique / tester / motors.---------Is the throttle open during the testing ?
 

rdrider04

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Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
6
As I understand it, spec is 41 plus/minus a 14. I don't remember if throttle was wide open, might be worth checking again.
 

rdrider04

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Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
6
Thanks for the responses so far.
It seems the ignition coil is fine, as I swapped with my friends motor with no change.
I also tested the trigger coil for resistance on our two motors, both about 190 ohms, so that does not appear to be the problem either.
Next is testing the capacitor charging coil for voltage... maybe I will get lucky and find the problem, but my friend is thinking the valves are messed up perhaps. So more on that later.
 

rdrider04

Cadet
Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
6
So I did some further testing last week and found the capacitor charging cable under the flywheel was out of spec for ohms and volts. I build a DVA (Digital Voltage Adapter) to test the voltage when the motor is cranked. The new capacitor charging coil and a new elephant ear prop came in from eastmarine.com and I did the repair. I had to buy a bolt-type wheel puller (from Harbor Freight) to get the job done but it worked just fine with extra long 6mm bolts. Unfortunately the flywheel rotated or came out a little crooked so a magnet was clipped by the old charging coil a little.

One of the screws holding the capacitor charging coil was a real pia to get off too. The phillips screw head was rounding without any movement of the screw and I couldn't grab it with a vice grips and liquid mechanic oils didn't work, so I resorted to brute force banging the other side of the capacitor charging coil where I removed the other screw. Unfortunately there is a collar on top of the screw post that goes around the bottom of the coil so that broke off but the screw turned finally.

I put it all back together and it started first pull. It now runs as well or better than it ever has. It will start cold choke in on the first pull and idle around 400rpm without dying.
I look forward to checking revs with the flatter elephant ear prop and might have it turned down a little too. We will see.

Thanks,
Orion
 
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