Mercury 50 hp Crankcase to Engine Block Seal Just Beginning to Fail

Irondogie

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My motor is a 1968 Mercury 500 (50 hp) 4 cylinder serial number 2105127 On my 16' Shellake fiberglass runabout, top speed with all 'un-necessary' gear and land lubbers tossed ashore, top speed was 20 mph. The addition of a first mate dropped the WOT speed to about 13 or 14 mph. The previous mechanic made adjustments to the timing that seem not quite right to me, but the motor did actually run as noted above. After many hours of analysis, carburetor rebuild, endless adjusting, and hopeful observation, I think I know the problem. It appears to me that the seal between the crankcase and the engine block is beginning to fail. A bit of fuel accumulates and the tiniest of bubbles form along the length of the mating surfaces (brown goop) when the motor is (attempting) to be at a pretty fast idle. I think a leak down would confirm, but I think the tiny bubbles tell the whole story. Being a reasonably good mechanic, but not a masochist, here is my question: Can I simply follow the dis-assembly instructions in my Seloc Manual up to the point where the crankcase is removed from the cylinder block, clean the mating surfaces, apply Permatex 2C-12 Sealer, carefully reassemble and... expect to have a good result? That is to say, leave the crank seals, end play, and other items alone... What do you guys advise? v/r Irondogie PS Any suggestions with regard to crankcase to engine block sealer would be appreciated also.
 

Irondogie

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Well, removal of the powerhead was much easier than I had imagined. Don't worry, I've been 'un-lucky' in other phases of life.

It would appear upon a more close examination, it would be inadvisable to fail to replace the upper and lower end cap gaskets and o-rings.

So, the new question becomes, might a mechanic leave the (up till now) non-problematic oil seals?

If a guy really should by all means replace them, then I expect that they will not be included with my overhaul gasket set.

But I bet that the seals are pretty stock items at the local bearing supply house.

Anybody have a recommendation?
 

CharlieB

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Seals are cheap enough insurance that you do not want to have to take it apart again. Do it right the first time around.

Resealing an engine is no biggie, it should not disturb bearing end play as you are not changing a shim or bearing depth in the casing.
 

racerone

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That little bit of leakage is not the cause of the performance problems.-----Remove bypass covers and inspect pistons / rings from the side.
 

Irondogie

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I have the block on my table now. Here are a couple of shots of the side port's removed.

Looks pretty OK to me.

What say you guys?
 

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racerone

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Inspect fuel pump diaphragm.-----Check reed valves.------Replace lower crank seal and lower bearing.---------Looks like a low hrs motor and in excellent shape.---With proper care and set-up should run like a new motor.
 

Irondogie

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Roger all

The fuel pump diaphragm was replaced on an earlier, recent troubleshoot, but I will check it

Reed valves are a bit new to my experience, but I will report any findings and seek some advice

Roger the seal and bearing

Thanks for the encouragement


v/r
 

racerone

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That is the correct tool for many years and many models and your motor..
 

CharlieB

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Clymer and seloc manuals are better than nothing, but both leave out a LOT of very valuable information.

Do yourself a favor and find a copy of the MERC Service Manual. Once finished with your repairs study the ignition adjustments and learn to set the ignition timing correctly. It can make a world of difference in the performance of your motor.

I would have to look but I 'might' have a copy in pdf form. But I have commitments and have to take off in a minute. Send me a PM with a valid email and I will check later.
 

Irondogie

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So, cleaning and understanding parts while I wait for gaskets, seals, and sealant

Looking forward, I think that it might be easier to drop the lower unit now (replace the impeller too) and install the power head first.

Do you think that matching the gear shift, water tube, and exhaust in the lower unit might be a lot less frustrating if I install the power head and then match up.

What do you advise?

v/r
 

merc850

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Use a thin coating of P.S. Put the shift shaft/powerhead with its gaskets on first then follow the instructions on the index page of this forum for LU instructions.
 
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Irondogie

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Here is a few snaps of the reed valves. I'm just doing a visual inspection at this point. They look new to me.

Any advise on other tests for the reed valves?

v/r
 

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Irondogie

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Condition of the reed valves. Visually they look perfect. Anything I should notice?
 

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merc850

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Looks like rust on the Nr. 2 & 4 cylinders, if so can you get replacements for them?
 

racerone

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This appears to be a low hrs motor.-----Some more trouble shooting is required to determine the lack of performance.---Certainly it was not the crankcase leaking !
 

Irondogie

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Yes, I imagine very true.

None-the-less crankcase leaking makes fuel/oil-mixture-grime which I don't abide on my motor.

The fuel mixture leaked also makes my garage smell funky and drastic lowers the SOAF (significant other acceptance factor) with regard to my
hobby involving outboard motors.

The reed valves have some oxidation (rust would be a stretch) on one side, but look very good on on the sealing side. I don't have a donor motor, so I'm going to leave them as they are.

Did find my old ultra-sonic cleaner, so most small parts are getting a very good cleaning

Monday will probably begin the re-assembly

Stand by to toss me a rope

v/r
 
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