charging issue 1988 xr4

[Chief BDF]

Hi guys, I have a 1988 xr4, after lots of trial and error I have come to realize it is time to replace rectifier, voltage regulator, trigger plate and stator. I am also going to disconnect and remove the advance module and time correctly. Here is my issue, when inspecting the system I realized that the previous owner had disconnected the voltage regulator, not only do I have no idea as to why, but I have ran it that way for over two years! I can find the regulator in the IPL, but NOWHERE does it show it on a wiring schematic. I have no idea where to hook up the wires when I get the new parts. Thanks for any and all help.

 

[sam am I]

Did the 88 xr4 have a voltage reg? or just a rectifier? Perhaps someone else knows, IDK and I'm being lazy, it hot out side!!.............However and either way, wiring it back up is not so bad. Here is what I THINK you have courtesy maxrules.com

You have only two yellow battery charge wires coming from stator, right?

http://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wir...a/79_88_V6.jpg

 

[Chief BDF]

Yes, I only have two yellow wires, and I know the schematic shows only the rectifier, but what confuses me is the IPL and the parts list not only shows a voltage regulator, but I have one bolted on the top of my engine with two wires secured to it and running down through the wiring harness and ending at the switch boxes. In fact one of the wires is taped off and the other shows evidence of have being hooked up to something in the past. I am totally confused, I am pretty sure the reg needs hooked up, but where? The system would not be regulated and in theory could over charge the battery without it. Even though it is only 16 amps the danger of boiling out a batt is still there if not regulated.

 

[GA_Boater]

What parts list shows a regulator? All those I've looked at only show a rectifier.

There are 1,000's and 1.000's and 1.000's of Mercs running around without regulators and the batteries aren't boiling.

It is possible a PO added a regulator and later disconnected it for some reason.

Are you testing components or shotgunning? CDI does have a troubleshooting guide for electrical.

 

[sam am I]

Yes, I only have two yellow wires, and I know the schematic shows only the rectifier, but what confuses me is the IPL and the parts list not only shows a voltage regulator, but I have one bolted on the top of my engine with two wires secured to it and running down through the wiring harness and ending at the switch boxes. In fact one of the wires is taped off and the other shows evidence of have being hooked up to something in the past. I am totally confused, I am pretty sure the reg needs hooked up, but where? The system would not be regulated and in theory could over charge the battery without it. Even though it is only 16 amps the danger of boiling out a batt is still there if not regulated.

Pretty much any system can be made/modified to be regulated, even the older just rectified 8, 10, 16 yada yada amp motors can have reg/rec's added. Few threads here running around on just that.

A PO just added a reg/rec sounds and perhaps it got all messed up over the years of other PO's trying to make sense of a system that shouldn't have one......like you are.

Go back to the schematic I linked you too and just substitute/splice in your/a rec/reg in place of the rectifier it shows.........2 yellows in, 1 red to your battery at solenoid(I recommend a fuse), 1 black to ground and 1 grey to a tach. That's it, your done........

 

[Faztbullet]

On some models they installed a "clipper" on op of engine. It looks like a 2 wire rectifier. Just chuck it or leave it disconnected and use a good type 24 battery.

 

[Chief BDF]

GA Boater, thanks for the help, here is the part IPL for my engine, #37 is the reg, #17 is the rectifier https://public-mercurymarine.sysonli...=englangDB=eng got to outboard 2stroke carb xr4 magnum II Serial 0b242885 Thru 0c100860 and look at the "wiring harness, starter solenoid and rectifier" Tab

 

[GA_Boater]

The link is a log on screen, so I can't view it.

 

[sam am I]

This looking right?.........


















It appears to me this is no more than a separated rectifier and regulator setup. If the reg. was disconnected from the rec, its possible it was disconnected for a reason eh? So if you find its shot........it appears doing a quick search at new prices for these "vintage" reg only units, they are going for around $200!!

I WOULD NOT pay that!! I'm too cheap............So unless your into totally stock and IMO, antiquated technology in electronic designs, I would recommend going back with today'ishes newer more efficient reliant integrated rec/reg....

http://www.amazon.com/RECTIFIER-REGU...ilpage_o03_s00

These are 20 Amp units and will run perfectly in your setup. Plus ya get a tach output......BONUS!!!

 

[CharlieB]

Go with the Amazon rectifier.

If there is a separate regulator disconnect it and remove it. Same with any ignition advance module, remove it, as when this module fails at high RPM it can toss rods out the side of the engine.

Reset ignition timing as described in the thread that spells out timing.