1995 Mariner 200hp metal in cylinder ! Help bore or sleeve ?

[Heywire77]

I just purchased a boat and was told that it was ran hot and shut down and they had it checked and said that one cylinder the rings cam apart and scored the cylinder also . My question is can this block be sleeved , I seen online they sell sleeves that are already to go in and they come with new piston and rings for that one cylinder . My question is does this cylinder have to be bored to put the new sleeve in ? Or would it be cheaper to bore every cylinder and oversized rings ? I'm fixing to pull the motor down this weekend but from what I can see down in the cylinders with the bore scope it only looks like the one cylinder has alittle score in it . I know I just can't afford a couple thousand dollars and here no one does machine work . So I would have to find a place I could send the motor to so they could do the work unless the sleeve just press in and out . I know some 2 stroke motors have sleeves already in them so I didnt know if this one already had one also if it does then that would make it easier ? Also motor is the 2.5 fuel injected 200hp 1995 model . Thanks

 

[Dukedog]

first thing ta be done is make sure tha cause is fixed or you'll be back ta square one sooner than ya think.... yes, your motor has steel sleeves in it.... you can do just tha one cylinder if cost is tight... if it can be bored its a better deal for ya "IF" ya have a good machinist... replacing tha sleeve is done with heat and a lot more critical than some will say....this is where a really good machinist is REQUIRED... tha interface between tha sleeve and sleeve holder needs ta be as close ta .003 as possible which sometimes requires tha sleeve "holder" ta be bored also for an oversize OD sleeve.. tha reason this is so important is for heat distribution in tha cylinder.. so its not as cut n dried as they try ta make it seem..... jus do ya homework on it.... jmo.

..

 

[Heywire77]

I know what the problem was , the person got in a swamp wo big Lillie pads and got into the water inlet and it over heated . It stavred for water so that is what happened

 

[Heywire77]

You don't think it would be higher to bore all the cylinders and go with over sized rings ? I have installed sleeve in a dirt bike before we got dry ice and put the sleeve in it and then dropped it in the cylinder and it was easy . I can get a sleeve for alittle over a 100 for one sleeve and then I planned on putting new rings and bearings also in it .

 

[Dukedog]

its not a dirt bike motor... above is only way to replace tha sleeve and make it last....tha problem comes with putting a perfectly round sleeve in an older "out of round" hole it won't cool right.. thats where tha .003 interface comes in... if ya go with boring all of then ya gotta go with PISTONS AND RINGS in all.. ya can't do just over size rings in these things....

 

[Faztbullet]

You better check something else as a overheat wont damage 1 cylinder it will show on all 6 either in scuffing,sleeve turning,discoloring or ring locating pin shifting.

 

[Faztbullet]

Also you cannot buy a drop in ready to go sleeve,all the aftermarket sleeves(LA, & Advanced) will require cylinder machining for interference fit and milling of the top of block so sleeve is even with block. Never in all years working on outboards,ski, and ATV have I seen a drop in and go sleeve.Also the new sleeve will need to be honed to size as most are undersize at 3.470. If just that cylinder failed I would look at bad advance box,pack timing problem, bad injector or ECU problem

 

[Heywire77]

I got the heads pulled off both sides and right side is the problem the top piston went to pieces like it got really hot and the middle piston started to deform also and alittle scuffing on cylinder wall , the bottom you can see were it got hot but didn't damage from what I can tell , also the top cylinder wall has scuffing . The other side 3 cylinders look great . What would anyone recommend ?

 

[Heywire77]

Also I'm sorry I don't know what I was thinking before when I stated it was fuel injected , it is carb motor mariner 2.5 200hp . Would all Mercury 2.5 Pistons be the same ? Because I found someone with some Pistons for a 2.5 Mercury but didn't know if it had to be for that exact year . Also if it could be bored and over sized rings were is a place I could send to because there is no were local for me . Thanks

 

[Heywire77]

Ok I found out it will be cheaper to bore engine but just looking for a place that doesn't charge so much the only place I found online wants 75.00 per cylinder . Also I didn't know that if I bore it I will have to get oversized pistons and rings . I didn't know you couldn't use standard pistons and just get oversized rings ? I was told they could bore just the two cylinders that need it and I could go oversized on them and leave the other cylinders standard , and that is something I didn't know . I am going to put the heads back on and check compression at all cylinders and see if maybe all of them need it . But I guess it looks like I'm going to running into a big bill with engine rebuild kit is around 1,000 and then the machine work I will be in it almost 2,000 but will have a rebuilt nice motor .

 

[Heywire77]

I just went and looked alittle deeper at the cylinder walls and I noticed that the stuff all over the cylinder walls is actually the piston were it melted on the walls I tried on some of the thinner amounts removing and I don't see any grooves or deep scratches in the cylinder walls at all . Anyone know of a way to get some of the melted piston off the walls without damaging the cylinder walls ?

 

[Dukedog]

Anyone know of a way to get some of the melted piston off the walls without damaging the cylinder walls ?

won't work with steel sleeves.... have "heard" of it workin' with acid on chrome and/or nic sleeved motors but i never had any luck with it......

no mater what it will need "pistons and rings that match piston size" what ever size tha hole turns out ta be.... it sounds like tha way your tryin' ta go it won't last... no such thing as cheap on it... have ya checked tha crank?

 

[Heywire77]

i plan on doing what it needs I was just trying to find the cheapest way to fix the motor . I wasn't saying I want to rig it were I will have to be back in it in a couple months ! I was also trying to compare if it would just be cheaper for now to get another used motor I now a friend has a good deal on running and use for now or just rebuild the motor . The previous owner of the motor and boat got into some Lillie pads and thought he had them cleaned out and he got to going and motor started reducing rpms and he seen no water pressure on gauge before it shutdown and when he got stopped it had a big pad laying over the bottom covering both sides of the water intake . I checked compression on the left side cylinders and they are good and with the head off I can see the cross hatching marks from the factory in the cylinder walls and on the bad side that had the melted piston the bottom cylinder still has nice looking cylinder walls and the middle also looks ok . it is just the top cylinder wall that had melted piston stuck on the walls so I can't tell for sure how much damage is done to the block until I get it off and didn't want to do more damage getting it off . I going to pull the power head off tomorrow and get it down to bare block and check everything and take it to the local machine shop and have them at least check the cylinders to see if it needs to be sent off to be bored . If it is out of specs then I'm going to bore every cylinder and out new Pistons and rebuild kit with bearings and all and I will have the crank checked also . And I did see on the internet also about using acid to desolve the aluminum off the cylinder walls also from the piston that melted just have to make sure it is the right kind of acid .

 

[Heywire77]

Were is a good online place to get an online manual for my motor ?

 

[Dukedog]

pm me an email and i'll send ya a pdf.....

 

[Heywire77]

Boat.restoration@yahoo

 

[Heywire77]

Ok I sent my block to a machine shop that was suppose to be a good one , the problem is I was told after they check it that the port cylinders was in need of boring .15 over and they the other side were fine and didn't need to touch them . I said ok just let me know when your thru , well I got a call today and said that they bored the 3 holes on that side and that he took another look at the other side and that it just didn't look good and that he checked the ring gap and it was .21 thousands and that was way to much that it wouldn't last long if I didn't go ahead and bored that side also , I guess he couldn't remember he told me before that he mic the cylinder and them looked great and I didn't see any damage or anything on that side and you could still see the factory cross hatching from honing . So know I don't know what to do if they are just trying to get over on me and make extra money or what ? Does anyone know what the acceptable ring gap is and what would you do , I haven't talked to them yet this was left on my answering machine , I'm already pissed because before I took it I was told that it would be 120.00 per hole to bore plus that was including the cost of pistons and rings and then when he got it he told me a totally different price 50. To bore and 117.00 for Pistons and ring per hole and that was using WSM Pistons !

 

[Heywire77]

Update I have the motor all back together and installed and I am restoring the rest of the boat now , I have only fired the motor up one time by squirting alittle mixed gas in the carbs and it sounded great . I have to cleaned and drain my fuel tanks on my boat . I have a question thou if anyone is still around . It is about the carbs they have the fuel line that runs to the carbs and then there is another hose that runs to the carbs that in the manual it says it goes to the vacuum control valve but I don't have one on my motor I think it was just blocked off , is that ok to be blocked off ? Because they also have the oil pump bypassed also but they still have the oil tank and hoses running to motor but not from the pump to the carbs , I have another question how do I do away with the oil tank since I'm mixing the oil and gas myself now what do I do about the valve on the block that one of the oil lines ran to I think it is called crankcase pressure one way valve that would send pressure to the oil tank what do I do about it if I take that oil line from oil tank off it ?