HELP - removing water pump base - 2002 Mercury 30hp

[jake81]

I'm trying to replace the water pump base on my 2002 Mercury 30 hp 2 stroke. Its the part that seals water from entering the lower unit at the drive shaft under the water pump. I noticed the old one was badly corroded when I was replacing the water pump impellar and decided to be cautious and replace it. Its not threaded and just seats in the housing with an o-ring, but I've tried prying every which way and cant get it out. Now that its destroyed, I have to replace it but I still cant get it out. I've attached a picture of the replacement part. Any suggestions?

 

[Texasmark]

Let's see as detailed picture as you can get, in focus of the mess you made. Considering the time the original was in the engine, my first thought is to JB weld the replacement in place since you probably will be tearing up some casting material in the process of removing the old one. On replacing the replacement, worry about that when the time comes and it probably won't as you will move on to another engine or two or three by then.

 

[GA_Boater]

Wecome aboard, Jake.

That base is not a place for JB Weld. The old base needs to come out and the new one put in.

I say find a manual for the motor and look at the removal instructions. Failing that, try using a pipe wrench or channel locks to twist the base to free it, although this may not be the best way. The O-ring is probably swollen and with corrosion, keeping it from coming out.

 

[Texasmark]

Wecome aboard, Jake.

That base is not a place for JB Weld. The old base needs to come out and the new one put in.

I say find a manual for the motor and look at the removal instructions. Failing that, try using a pipe wrench or channel locks to twist the base to free it, although this may not be the best way. The O-ring is probably swollen and with corrosion, keeping it from coming out.

Why not if removal requires the destruction of adjacent cast aluminum? When I restored my '65 Holiday 18 I/O JB was a major player in replacing what corrosion had eroded away, and there was a lot of it in critical places. It works and does just fine when you can't afford to replace the degraded components.

 

[GA_Boater]

Why not if removal requires the destruction of adjacent cast aluminum? When I restored my '65 Holiday 18 I/O JB was a major player in replacing what corrosion had eroded away, and there was a lot of it in critical places. It works and does just fine when you can't afford to replace the degraded components.

This isn't the hull of a tin boat. It's the lower unit. If the base isn't positioned in the right place or ends up cocked, I see the possibility of milkshake LU lube.

 

[Fed]

I had a look in a late 90s manual and it seems to be a part that is changed when the gearbox is stripped & rebuilt.
There's no mention of actually removing it, one minute it's in then the next minute it's out with instruction on how to change the seals.

 

[jake81]

Thanks guys, I ended up drilling four holes in it to jam screw drivers in opposite sides....then pried it off beating with a hammer. Took several hours. Sure wish I wouldnt have changed this part! Now I'm spending time cleaning out little metal shavings that I made when drilling from above the drive shaft bearings....I'll have to flush a quart of gear oil through it now to try to remove any aluminum shavings that dropped into the lower unit! I had good intentions...but I've probably just seriously reduced the life of my lower unit!

 

[jake81]

Yeah Fed, I had the manual...thats why I figured it would come out more easily when I began the project. I could see there was nothing holding it in. I'm not too happy with the engineer who decided to put the dissimilar metals against each other right at the water intake. aluminum + Stainless steel + salt water = corrosion. ...guess I should have known better.

 

[GA_Boater]

Glad you got out.

Before putting the new one in, Turn the lower unit upside in a catch pan and flush the lube through, Chances are any chips on the bearing didn't drop all the way into the lower and got stuck on the oil on the bearing. The lube running out through the bearing should flush the chips.

Hope it all works out for you, Jake.

 

[Texasmark]

This isn't the hull of a tin boat. It's the lower unit. If the base isn't positioned in the right place or ends up cocked, I see the possibility of milkshake LU lube.

It wasn't the tin. It was the outdrive including the cv seal, drive line 90 degree box, and several places in the LU including oil sealing areas.......besides sealing the side of the block from a frozen water crack.

 

[canufixit]

Hi all,

Congrats you finally got it removed. Any Pics??

I have a similar issue but with plastic pump base. Some info is here that may be relevant for others....
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...60-hp-water-pump-base-can-i-just-break-it-out