No power to key

Kings01

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Dec 1, 2015
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3
Hi there, Im having real trouble finding the source of this fault. I had no trim & tilt and no start. I cleaned up all the main 'big' wires from battery to engine etc and that gave me my trim & tilt back, however I still have no start. Solenoid doesnt click, no beep when key is turned to 'on', no primer solenoid either. I cant figure out where the main power to the key comes in or comes from.

1992 (or 1996) Merc 115 outboard.
 

alldodge

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Mar 8, 2009
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40,747
Need a volt meter (not a test light) and start tracing wires and connections
 

Tnstratofam

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Aug 18, 2013
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2,679
What about the kill switch? Dumb question I know. Also did you have start and tilt and trim and then loose all three, or is this a new motor and this is where you're starting from?
 

flyingscott

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Apr 8, 2014
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7,990
Did you check for power on both sides of the fuse holder wouldn't be the first one to go bad.
 

Kings01

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Dec 1, 2015
Messages
3
Thanks for the replies, I havent checked both sides of the fuse, which way does the power run in them? From engine to the loom or from loom to engine? I always figured it was loom to engine.
On my control housing, I have a kill switch, not one of the safety ones with a lanyard, just a switch under a cover. Ive checked that a million times. Yes, Ive had the boat for years, and it was all working one minute, the next it was dead.
 

flyingscott

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Apr 8, 2014
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7,990
Does not matter which way the power runs just make sure you have power at both sides of the holder 12 volts. You may need a pin to stick in the wire if you can't find an end that is bare.Also do a continuity test on the fuse if you haven't already
 
Last edited:

49Mercury

Cadet
Joined
Nov 10, 2015
Messages
11
On my 125HP 1995 mariner, battery positive comes direct to the bottom big terminal of the start solenoid. Should always be 12V there. When checking in the engine use the engine metal as ground. Up at the key switch try to use the engine metal as ground if your leads will reach or an extension wire, or first check the continuity of ground from the black terminal at the switch back to engine ground just to be sure the engine to key ground (black) is good (very low ohms, like 0.2 ohms).

Try to trace down where you lose 12V. From the starter relay post which is directly connected to battery positive, a red wire goes to inline fuse, then from fuse to the plug harness, then from this harness up to the key switch (red wire). Should be 12V at all of these places including the key switch red terminal. If not then bad connection, bad fuse, or bad wire, or (if you're losing it at the key switch and using black key switch as ground, in the engine to key ground path.

Stupid question but did you tighten down your battery connections?
 
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