Mounting 90hp help please

Thaiboxer04

Seaman
Joined
Jul 17, 2015
Messages
56
Good morning everyone. I just purchased a 1982 Mercury 90hp Tower of Power. As you know it's quite heavy so I used an engine crane to get it out of my SUV. It went OK but I picked it up from the mount so the engine is sitting horizontally now. I want to get it mounted to the boat this week and wondered if anyone had ideas on ways to do this? I don't see a lifting hook on the top of the motor to hold it upright for mounting. I saw that they make a tool for the flywheel bolt for some motors but curious if any of you used other methods with straps etc? I also had some other questions... 1) I am used to the motors with the big hooks and T handles to mount on the transom. This motor just has small tabs instead of a C clamp style... if I stand the motor upright and lift up onto the transom...will these tiny tabs hold the motor onto the transom so I can start bolting it or will it slip off? 2) The holes don't look like they will line up with the holes on my boat. Do I just drill new holes and seal the old with silicone and nuts/bolts? How many bolts total for 90hp? I was guessing 6? 3) The cables are way too long that I have. I am working with a small 15' fiberglass bass boat so cables need to be short. Is there anyway to modify the cables or do I have no choice but to buy new ones? Any help is much appreciated!!!
 

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gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,589
Okay Thaiboxer04, I actually did this before with an inline 6 115HP Mercury myself. There are a few ways to lift this engine for mounting. First, you have to set it down and regroup from the top. Otherwise you will never get it mounted. I used some quality nylon straps when I lifted mine. However, you could use a flywheel puller with three grade 8 bolts to hold the flywheel puller to the flywheel and lift from there. Or you can buy, or borrow, the threaded eye setup for the center of the flywheel and lift from that setup. No the little tap over sections will not hold the engine against the transom for mounting. I mean they are capable of carrying the engine weight, but an little wrong tilt force and it will be all over but the crying...if you are not seriously hurt. So keep the engine hoist attached until some bolts are threaded through the transom. As for the holes lining up, I have zero idea about that being I have no idea what was previously mounted there. So you need to seal the old holes and drill new ones for this engine mounting effort. You can rad on here how to properly seal the old holes because there are so many options. But make sure you use the proper sealant with the new holes and bolts. Again you can read on here for that effort. I have my own way and that would be different then other folks' ideas I'm sure. Once you have a few bolts through, then you can remove the engine hoist. As per the too long cables, Again I have no idea what type cables you have and therefore I can't lean any ideas to shorten them. I have cables that I could shorten easily knowing how to remove the ends and cutting both the cable jacket and the inside wire cable length as well, but that is my cables... :noidea: no idea with yours... JMHO!
 

Thaiboxer04

Seaman
Joined
Jul 17, 2015
Messages
56
GM280... thanks for the good info!!! I haven't looked at the motor closely yet since I just picked it up recently. I didn't look to see how the cable ends are made on the controls end. I was hoping to cut the outer casing to a good size and put new ends on the cable. The strap i have is good for 2000 lbs but I'm not sure where to safely loop it through. On the holes that need filled...i was thinking nuts, washers and bolts through the holes coated with silicone? Thanks!!
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,557
The engine weighs about 300#. 3ea 5/16" grade 5 (3 hash marks on the head 120 degrees apart) bolts screwed in 3/4" and a 1/4" steel disc flywheel puller or fabricated replica would give you a place to mount a chain to the top of the crankshaft. That or the OEM threaded loop that screws onto the crankshaft is HOW you do it.....both methods gm280 mentioned. I made a suitable replica of the OEM threaded adapter for mine.

Once you do that and hook it to your engine lifting apparatus you are good to go.....a walk in the park. Having that lift is a plus a lot of folk need and have to rent, buy, or figure out something else.

What are you talkiing about on remote cables? How about some pictures of where you think you have a problem.

Be sure and service the lower unit and use some Sea Foam with your 1 pt of TC-W3 marine oil and 6 gallons of regular gas. WW as all 3.
 

Thaiboxer04

Seaman
Joined
Jul 17, 2015
Messages
56
Thanks!! Yes luckily i was able to borrow a car engine hoist from someone. With the cables... i was just wondering if there was a way to shorten them without buying new. What will the Seafoam do? Clean all the carbon from pistons etc? What did you mean at the end where you said "WW as all 3"? Thanks again Mark!
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,557
Thanks!! Yes luckily i was able to borrow a car engine hoist from someone. With the cables... i was just wondering if there was a way to shorten them without buying new. What will the Seafoam do? Clean all the carbon from pistons etc? What did you mean at the end where you said "WW as all 3"? Thanks again Mark!
Gasoline at a lot of WWs around here, in the sporting good section, TC-W3, Pennzoil is semi-syn and priced lower than OEM Merc, and lower unit oil in a quart with a tube, adapter to fit your LU and pump.

Seafoam will clean up the carbon and loosen the piston rings to help in improving compression and chase a lot of, all of, most of, the crud out of your carbs.

On shortening the cables I doubt it but ask Faztbullet, Steelspike or Chris1956. I never attempted it.
 
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