5.7LX EFI low compression - need advice

hnt

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Dec 31, 2010
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Hi folks,
I have developed a low compression problem on #4 and #6 cylinders in my 1996 250hp Mercruiser 5.7LX EFI Bravo III. The boat is indoor rack stored and has about 650 original hours. It is raw water cooled but it spent most of its life in fresh water until I bought it and moved it to CT 5 years ago.
Tuesday night I went out to do a little fishing and noticed a ticking sound while cruising at 3,000 rpm. I backed off to idle and the engine sounded normal and smooth. I headed back to the marina but when I brought the revs up to 2,500 it began to make noise again. There was also a noticeable roughness and loss of power. I idled in without incident and submitted a service request with my marina to diagnosis the problem. The engine did not overheat and oil pressure was normal. There is no sign of water in the oil.
On Friday I learned the service department has a major backlog and they didn?t know if they could even look at it for the ?next several? weeks?..Yikes! I decided to look into it myself this weekend. I discovered that I had three loose spark plugs on the starboard side. #2 was not snug but #4 and #6 were much more loose and no question leaking compression out around the plug. Problem solved I thought. I tightened all the plugs and did a sea trial but still had the same symptoms. I removed all the plugs and did a compression check with the following results?.
#1-140, #3-145, #5-145, #7-145, #2-145, #4-40, #6-40, #8-150.
My first thought is a bad head gasket but I am interested in hearing your thoughts.
My plan is to have the boat put on a ground stand and I will pull the heads with the motor still in the boat (there is enough room to work around the engine thankfully). If I find a bad head gasket should I still take the heads to an engine shop and have them checked over? What else I should do while I?m in there besides gaskets? I have a fair amount of mechanical experience but appreciate any tips you might have.
Thanks,
HNT
 

tpenfield

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It is better to know more about the problem before you take the engine apart. I would suggest a cylinder leak test as well, paying specific attention to #4 & #6 to see where the compression leak is coming from. even if you do not have a leak test gauge, you can hook an air compressor to #4 & #6 and listen for the leak.

Often when you get 'middle cylinder' issues, it is the result of a failing gasket between the exhaust manifold and riser. sea water leaks into the exhaust manifold and usually can reach the exhaust valves on those cylinders.

Was there any damage to the spark plug threads on 4 & 6 due to being loose?

There is little doubt that the engine should come apart with compression so low on those cylinders, but it is a good idea to do a little more testing before taking the wrench to it.
 

hnt

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Thanks,

Further investigation makes a lot of sense. I will try the compressed air procedure as well as the three squirts of oil test as spelled out in MC Service Bulletin 97-25 before tearing the engine down.

The manifolds and elbows were new last year and I used OEM gaskets. I will certainly look at the mating surface for any sign of water leakage when I pull it apart. I have never seen any trace of water in the oil FYI.

The spark plug threads were not damaged at all and they tightened and sealed fine. Interestingly the color of the plugs was normal (Light brown)and they were no different form the other plugs.
 

Bt Doctur

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given the fact the plugs looked normal and there is no water present(yet) then suspect a blown head gasket .Has it been overheated?
 

Bt Doctur

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has it ever started with a slight miss that went away? That indicates water in a cylinder usually from the riser manifold connection.
When you installed the new parts did you take a flat file to them to make sure they were perfectly flat?
 

hnt

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Bt Doctor,

I have never noticed a miss at start up that went away. I used Osco manifolds and elbows and because of the concerns people expressed about some non-OEM quality I carefully checked the mating surfaces for smoothness and confirmed flatness of all surfaces with a straight edge. I also used Mercruiser gaskets instead of the green ones supplied by Osco.

Now thinking more about your overheating question.......I should have said that the temperature gauge did not display an overheating condition. After doing a bit of reading on loose spark plugs it seems entirely possible that the leaking of exhaust gases could have caused the head to overheat locally and that could have caused the head gasket to fail between #4 & #6. I wont be able to get to the boat for a few days to tear it down but if I find a bad head gasket and the head looks okay should I just replace the gasket on that side or should I have the head checked for cracks? What would you suggest about the other side?
 

hnt

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As far has head gaskets go. Is the Fel-Pro PermaTorque the best bet?

Does anyone know of a good shop in SE CT with a decent turnaround time that can check over my heads including checking for cracks?

Thanks for all the help!
 

nateo

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Does anyone know of a good shop in SE CT with a decent turnaround time that can check over my heads including checking for cracks?

Pull the head off first, you'll know more after inspecting valves & gaskets. Could be a burnt valve or something. Just pulled one of my heads recently, pretty easy job. Took about a couple of hours with cordless impact and other appropriate tools. Putting everything back together correctly, little more difficult. Make sure you get new head bolts, set valves/rockers correctly and reinstall distributor correctly (or better yet mark it). Also torque it all to spec.
 

Bondo

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As far has head gaskets go. Is the Fel-Pro PermaTorque the best bet?

Ayuh,..... Fel-Pro is Good stuff,.... They do that gasket with SSteel rings, which is what ya want,....

Do the air test, Before ya tear it down,....

You can gain Much info, as to exactly where the problem is,....
Bad valves, intake, or exhaust, or rings, or gasket,.....
Make sure you get new head bolts,

Unless they're Severely Rusted,..... Why,..??..??

If they clean up well on a wire wheel, I always reuse Chevy head bolts,.....
 

flipbro

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X2 on reusing head bolts. Unless your pumping out 400plus hp lol
 

nateo

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Ayuh,..... Fel-Pro is Good stuff,.... They do that gasket with SSteel rings, which is what ya want,....

Do the air test, Before ya tear it down,....

You can gain Much info, as to exactly where the problem is,....
Bad valves, intake, or exhaust, or rings, or gasket,.....


Unless they're Severely Rusted,..... Why,..??..??

If they clean up well on a wire wheel, I always reuse Chevy head bolts,.....

some say once torqued they stretch out. for $15 shiny new bolts give me piece of mind and a nice warm and fuzzy.
 

nateo

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X2 on reusing head bolts. Unless your pumping out 400plus hp lol

Interesting tip. I've got another head I'm considering pulling. That's a tuff choice as to whether that warm and fuzzy is worth another $15 for the other set. lol
 

nateo

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hnt. While researching a compression issue with my own boat I found some threads on non boat related website that indicated readjusting valves cleared up compression issues. I remember reading somewhere a while back that valve adjustment is needed in old engines after so much usage. This makes sense, i know my engine in particular does not have those fancy rocker bolts that lock down. I can totally seeing it going out of adjustment from vibrations. I suggest adjusting the valves, peform another compression test. Judging by your numbers I would do both sides. Then continue tearing down the head if problems persist. Valve cover needs to be removed anyway to get at head. I'm going to do the same thing with my issue. removing valve cover is pretty easy.
 

flipbro

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He needs to pull the heads. 40 psi on two cylinders side by side is more then just a simple valve adjustment.likly head gasket
 

stonyloam

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Identical low compression in two adjacent cylinders indicates a blown head gasket between the cylinders. Time to pull the head. When you put it back together I would suggest an OEM gasket or at the very least a MARINE rated gasket.
 

hnt

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Okay folks

As suspected by many it was in fact a blown head gasket between #4 and #6. The head and valves all look good so I will likely just replace the gasket and get back on the water. I did not pull the other head and I am thinking that I probably wont since I am not planning on sending the heads out now. I was planning on using the Fel-Pro head gasket but the mechanics at the marina suggested the Mercruiser OEM gasket. They also suggested leaving the other head alone. Does anyone think I should pull the other head and replace that head gasket too?

I really appreciate all the feedback it is very helpful.
 

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tpenfield

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Felpro is a good gasket . . . maybe that is where Mercruiser OEM's them from :noidea:
 

muc

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Hard to go wrong with OEM parts.
Don't pull the other head.
What worries me more is how much head gasket is burned away. Looks like you ran it for quite some time with this problem. Send the head to a machine shop--- ask the shop who they use. ask the machine shop how much metal was burned away, and than clean and check how flat the block is where the gasket burned. You will need a very good straight edge and a feeler gauge that is cut down to 1/4 inch wide.
 

flipbro

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With it being cast iron I think he's fine. But agree it needs to be checked out.
 
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