2007 3.0 power loss at 3000 RPMS?

flyman219

Seaman
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
55
(2007 Bayliner Discovery 192 3.0 (1AOO5789) HI USHB24EYH607)
So I?m having what I believe is an ignition breakdown. Here?s a little of the history of the boat and what we have done. (maybe more than you'd like to see LOL)

The boat (2007 Discovery 192 with 135 hours on the meter) when we bought it from the PO it ran fine, a bit hard to start but not really alarming (learning curve for the 3.0 TKS 2 BBL system), good hole shot to planning (light load), top speed and WOT RPMs about 4200 last January.

Fast forward to April when we moored the boat at a nearby marina. We began to have a problem starting and with getting the boat on plane or poor performance under a load. After running the boat for about 15 minutes we would begin to feel a loss of power at 3500 RPMs. We would slow the boat down and let it idle for a bit. After that the motor would accelerate to about 3K rpm (a bit rough running from about 1500-2500 RPMs) and have no more to offer, the boat would be short of planning out. At idle the boat is pretty normal, you can putt around all day with no problems, rev in neutral no problem, just could not get it on a pane under a load on the motor after reaching running temps (175 degrees).

I believed it was a tune up issue first, I replaced the rotor, cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs (NKG?s), fuel filters, set the timing (after putting the distributor in base mode, 2 degrees ATDC) and added seafoam to the fuel tank each fill up. Surprisingly the performance did not improve as much as I would have expected (the tune up was overdue by looking at the parts I replaced). I felt I was having issues with the fuel delivery so I replaced the 2 BBL TKS carb with a rebuilt carb. Same issue, no power.

On a closer looks at the ignition we noticed that the timing was not advancing as the rpms were increased indicating the ignition module was not performing properly (maximum advance at 3K was 14 degrees). We replaced the module and now we could get to 4K RPMs on a plane. A bit later we were back to the not being able to plane out the boat for lack of power. On rechecking the timing advance it looks like we have another module failure (about 2 degrees over idle timing at 3K).

The prop was a 14.25X21? pitch which seemed like a bit too much for the size of our boat and motor package. We got a 14.5X17? 4 blade prop and installed a new module and shazaaammm! The boat ran gangbusters! About 4500 RPM WOT, good hole shot, and able to plane out with a full load of five adults on the boat. We ran the boat for the better part of the day with it performing as it should.

A week later took the boat and started to head up to the San Jauns. About two hours into the trip we were back to not being able to plane out, no power 3000 rpms max (weak performance).
We have run (fresh) marina grade boat gas in our boat for the last 50 hours, close to 100 gals I would guess. The TKS fuel enrichment system works like it should, raising the rpms on a cold start for about 8 minutes before slowing down to a normal idle rpm.

After returning home the next week we were getting a bit frustrated so we put the boat in nearly full throttle (3000 RPMS weak) trying to plane it out and tried squirting some fuel down the carb to see if the motor is starving for fuel. When I gave the cab a squirt of fuel it made the motor actually slow down and stumble worse a bit so odds are that fuel is not the issue (we could not make it up on a plane). Back to looking at the ignition and spark delivery.

I ordered a new coil, mine is so hot after running for about 20 minutes it?s uncomfortable to put my hand on it. I?m also looking at the pickup coil in the distributor with a suspicious eye.

Am I missing something here? If I had a valve, ring or compression issue it would be consistently running bad no matter what I changed in the ignition or the fuel delivery. Why would the boat run so good for a day and a half then loose power again?

I?m hoping the coil is the problem but am I missing something? The new coil should be her next week, my fingers are crossed.
Mike
 

boater364

Cadet
Joined
Apr 28, 2015
Messages
27
Did you try to removing the fuel cap while having the issue? If you shut down the boat, open the cap to releave pressure then put it back on and everything id fine it might be clogged vent tube maybe?. I would not rule out fuel because I don't know how accurate you could get by dumping fuel down the carb throat, you could of went from lack of fuel to flooded.

Did you confirm by serial and manual that your engine calls for 2 atdc.
 
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flyman219

Seaman
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
55
We removed the cap right in the early stages of our work, no negative pressure and no difference running with a "loose" cap.

I didn't slosh a lot of gas in the throat of the carb but more than enough to get a rise in power if the motor was starving. I tried it three times with different amounts of fuel and the results were the same.

The motor has that listed for the timing right on top of the original flame arrestor. The boat is emission rated for California even though it was purchased locally here in Washington originally by the PO.

Mike
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
One thing you can check which would cause similar symptoms is the fuel pump. You should be able to rent or loan a pressure gauge from an auto parts house to test the fuel pressure.
 

flyman219

Seaman
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
55
I haven't put a pressure test on the fuel pump. In my younger days messin with cars weak fuel pumps and bad floats in carburetors would cause the motor to lope a bit as the fuel levels fluctuated. With the boat running so well (It ran like it was designed to after the prop and module change) for a entire day and a half it seemed unlikely that the pump was the problem. Even when the boat is loosing power at 3000RPMs it is a very smooth and even RPM. That being said after the coil shows up this week if I'm still facing the same issue after it's installed I'll put the vacuum/pressure gage on the fuel pump and might have to eat some crow :facepalm:
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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I wouldn't feel bad everyone I know that works on their own boats and autos has a perfectly good used spare coil in a box somewhere. :heh:
 

flyman219

Seaman
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
55
"I wouldn't feel bad everyone I know that works on their own boats and autos has a perfectly good used spare coil in a box somewhere"

Best one liner I have seen all year! Thanks Waterman!

Mike
 

flyman219

Seaman
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
55
No Title

Well I'm back to eat a bunch of crow Waterman, the coil did not cure the loss of power I have been experiencing but it did make the boat run slightly better at idle.



As I was trying to pinpoint my problem I began to focus on the fuel delivery to the carb. I removed the anti siphon valve (aluminum type) and replaced it with a brass one. The test drive was the same, after ten minutes of planning at about 30 mph and 3500 rpms the motor started to loose power again. I removed the gas cap and did not notice any negative pressure. the tank is only half full so if it was a venting issue I should be able to plane out for another ten minutes right? Well no go again, the motor was running smoothly without creating any power again. No popping or sputtering or coughing just a smooth starved like condition.

We'll do a pressure test on the fuel pump this weekend, though with nothing in the overflow tube off the top of the pump I'm thinking that it's going to check out ok. I also have a chance to bypass the pump with a electric pump that we may try Monday.

Could something in the exhaust like bad flappers cause the motor to not breath correctly? The smooth run no power symptom has me wondering.

Mike
 

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alldodge

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Could something in the exhaust like bad flappers cause the motor to not breath correctly? The smooth run no power symptom has me wondering.

If the exhaust is clogged up then yes the motor cannot breath and there will be a loos of power. But this would happen always and not go away for the first 10 minutes, or when more gas is given to it.
 

flyman219

Seaman
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
55
Well I'm back and have to admit that I didn't listen to the sage advice given early in my dilemma. Compression test ? Hmm, the motor turned over pretty even without a uneven speed (dead hole jump in rpm each cycle) , idled pretty well all things considered, and not much of a miss until after 10 minutes of 3400 RPM running. I am surprised the motor would idle with only three holes firing!

Bottom line is I did a compression test yesterday,

#1 120

#2 ZERO!

#3 100

#4 120

As bad of news as this is, I'm rather happy to get to the bottom of the loss of power issue. At least now I know what I'm dealing with, the head is coming off later today. As this episode evolves I'll start another thread if I need more advice, I promise I'll listen to the sage advice that is so freely given by those with more experience in the future. My apologies to Chief, Alldodge and Funtimes and anyone else who suggested the compression test.

Mike
 
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