Merc 3.0LX Smoking Badly - running ROUGH

MikeDobbs

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 8, 2015
Messages
190
Hey everyone,

I've been working on this engine for weeks, and thought I was almost completely done. For the last couple of weeks the engine has been starting and running great (every time), except for a tapping noise which I've been chasing, and some detonation getting up on plane. I will give a brief description of the history in case it helps you to understand what may be happening.

A few days ago I checked the timing and found it was WAY advanced (by about 12-14 degrees), so I adjusted that to close to factory specs (I needed a second pair of hands). Engine started and ran fine after this adjustment.

Friday, I replaced the lifters in the hopes of getting rid of the ricking noise. The engine started up and ran fine after that job, but the ticking was still there. I posted a video of the engine running on the forum, and Bondo suggested it sounded like rod knock or piston slap, and I should pull each spark plug wire one at a time to see if the noise decreased.

So this morning, I went out to do that. I ran the engine for a while to get it up to operating temp, and while that was going on I readjusted the timing to exactly the factory specs. The engine was running fine the entire time. Then, I shut her down to loosen the wires at the distributor, after which she started right back up again. Pulled the wires from the distributor one at a time, and didn't notice any appreciable difference in the ticking sound (supposed to be good news I think). When I pulled the wires I did notice a fair amount of arcing between the coil wire and the Purple engine harness wire that feeds the coil power when the key is on. There are several "scars" or "pock-marks" on the insulation of the wire from where the arcing took place.

So, after the wire pulling test I shut the engine down; intending to do one final re-adjustment of the valves just to be on the safe side. I pulled the cables from the top of my valve cover, and tried to start the engine. Cranking, but no start (this engine has started immediately every time for the last several weeks, so this was very strange). I was eventually able to get it started by giving a substantial amount of throttle, and it immediately ran VERY rough; AND was smoking like crazy out the exhaust. I tried giving throttle to get it to settle down, but it would not run smoothly and continued to smoke no matter what I did. I shut it down and restarted several times with no change (i.e. smoking and running rough). I tried pulling the spark wires again, and this time it seemed that #4 was not firing at all. The engine ran exactly the same with or without the wire attached. So, I checked for spark on the #4 wire- spark was good. I pulled the plug and replaced with a brand new one- no difference.

Fearing the worst, I ran a compression check and all four cylinders were solid - 140-148 psi on all four (#4 was actually the highest).

So now I'm really at a loss. I'm thinking it must have something to do with the arcing that took place during the cylinder checks- but am not sure how to proceed. I would be extremely grateful for any suggestions you may be able to offer.

Thanks!
 

MikeDobbs

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 8, 2015
Messages
190
UPDATE: Overnight I began to wonder if these symptoms were caused by a stuck electric choke plate. Went out this morning to investigate and the engine wouldn't turn over. Just a click at the starter/solenoid.

After several hours of troubleshooting I was able to determine that the ground was bad to my #1 battery, and the positive lead connection was bad on my #2 battery. So, with a jumper from the #2 Pos Terminal to the starter solenoid I was able to start the engine. Same rough running and smoking as yesterday- BUT when I manually opened the choke plate it settled down and eventually ran nicely with no misfires and NO SMOKE! : )

So, I still need to replace the offending cable/clean necessary? connections...

and I need to figure out how to fix/adjust the choke so this doesn't continue to happen...

but it seems like the worst is behind me... perhaps this post will help someone else in the future.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Is your choke the old style bi-metal one that has a small housing on the intake with no adjustment? You may want to look into getting an updated electronic adjustable choke, I did and it made a world of difference in starting. In the meantime try lubricating the linkage and see if that helps.
 

MikeDobbs

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 8, 2015
Messages
190
Is your choke the old style bi-metal one that has a small housing on the intake with no adjustment? You may want to look into getting an updated electronic adjustable choke, I did and it made a world of difference in starting. In the meantime try lubricating the linkage and see if that helps.


New style- electric choke. Been searching for videos on adjusting it so I can try to straighten it out tomorrow. Also occurs to me, that the grounding problem may have caused the choke to malfunction, so perhaps fixing one will fix the other
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
You may be onto something there, the choke instructions for mine said that you get power from the coil. Mine was pretty simple to adjust for a cold motor. loosen the screws and turn the housing until the choke plate is just about closed all the way. I started up the motor and when it reached operating temp it was wide open so I tightened down the screws and done.
 
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