Mercruiser 350 mag intermittent ecm

Status
Not open for further replies.

Dave^5

Cadet
Joined
Jun 27, 2015
Messages
17
Hello, long time reader of these forums, finally had to stop piggybacking and contribute to the conversations. So here's the deal: I purchased a new project with a 2003 5.7 350 mag mpi serial# 0m663930 (I'll confirm serial when I get back to the boat) bravo 2 drive. Runs like a champ for a random amount of time anywhere from 30 seconds to 15 minutes and then dies as if I turned off the key. It does this no matter the rpm idle to 2000 ( max I'll turn it on the muffs).
The guy I got it from said he had it scanned multiple times with no codes showing....I'm currently having trouble getting a hold of a Merc mechanic to scan it for me but I'm working on it. I tend to believe him on this one thing however, because....
I have went through service bulletin 36 to the best of my capabilities along the long road to where I'm at. Along the way I have replaced the oil pressure sensor, the iac, the cps and the alternator. All of which did not fix the problem. I have been running on an external tank and all grounds are 100%. I even cut open the harness to look at splice 104 and a couple others all are good tested with a 5 amp pull while monitoring voltage for drop ecm was disconnected for these tests. I had my friend a long time Chevy mechanic come by and he checked fuel pressure it held at 38 psi at idle...a bit low but like I said this thing runs like a champ when it runs. He also checked the injectors and they are all firing again runs great.
So after a few weeks of dealing with this I decided to monitor the voltage to the sensor inputs on ecm plug b. At this point am 99.5% sure it's the ecm, so unconventional or not I wanted to see if I was loosing a sensor feed signal. Longer story short I got good readings on every wire....but....here's what I'm stuck at. I plugged my probe into plug b18 (I believe) the wake up wire (purple wire) I had 13-14 volts without interruption on this wire while it was running and after it died. With the key still on I touched the probe with my hand( I was sweating it out in the 95-100 degrees out here and I was acting like a ground by leaning on the exhaust manifold) and bam the computer fires up( the fuel pumps cycle the initial 2 seconds then turn off) until I let go of the wire then off again. So I pull out my test light and hook one wire to the battery+ and the neg wire I touched to the ecm casing. Over and over the computer turned on and off when I touched the lights negative wire to the case. So with that I tried grounding the ecm case strait to the battery ground...tried cranking and it turned but no fire...removed the ground and it fires up runs great for a few minutes then off. I didn't run the engine while touching the light to the case because I am somewhat afraid of toasting the ecm completely. Also let me add that I checked the connections on the cannon plug and at the key for the purple wire, all good.
Is there anyone out there that could make some rhyme or reason for this? My best guess is that there is something shorting out inside the ecm to the case probably a ground because the case shows ground on a volt meter but can't power a light. And when I touch the light it overloads the short causing it to actually un-short and "wake up the ecm". My next questions would be: is there anything else that can cause this to happen? Can I get my ecm fixed or flashed or just buy a new one. Can I dismantle the ecm and attack it with a solder gun and try my luck? What would the part number be for a new computer for the engine? I'm having trouble finding the match it seems they have changed part numbers. Also before I go down the road of a new ecm I am planning on taking my current one to a mechanic to see if they can "field test it" for me, then at least I'll know for sure.
Before I release this one to the masters let me say thank you for past and present help!
 
Last edited:

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
8,808
Hi there, welcome to iboats!:)

As long as you have a Standard Cooling system like your serial number seems to indicate, Your original ECM part number was 864377T05 but now superseded to 864377T06. If you have Closed Cooling then it would be a different part number. http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/8093.cfm?mdl=4T6NIS#

You probably meant to say service manual #36 vs Service bulletin 36. Since you have a bravo drive and your serial number is above the range of this bulletin, it won't pertain to your engine model.V6 AND V8 GMEFI WITH NO START, ENGINE MISS-FIRE OR ENGINE ... But here it is in case you were using it.

Technically speaking in a situation like this of how deep you're going into diagnostics, one item that you should be wearing is a mechanics static wrist strap due to the strong possibility of causing static electricity to the ECM's vulnerable 5 and 12 volt system. Here's an example. http://www.sears.com/owatonna-tool-co-anti-static-wrist-strap/p-SPM7423673610

To have your ECM inspected for possible repair, you could call then send your ECM out to Whipple Industries in Fresno CA as they do some ECM repairs. I hear it's $100.00 to test and let you know if it's repairable and $500.00 to repair. http://whipplesuperchargers.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=73

The way you described touching the wire and turning on and off the relays, makes me think you may of been just re-energizing the ignition system a few times and the ECM picked it up as such.

Grounding the case seems confusing though as the case should be grounded using the mounting hardware. What type of test light do you have? stander incandescent test light or?

A multimeter should be better to use to help narrow down what seem to be some unusual discoveries you have going on there.
 

Dave^5

Cadet
Joined
Jun 27, 2015
Messages
17
Hi thanks for the reply, the first one and almost all my questions are answered. thank you for the info. You are correct I used service manual #36...ECM 555 diagnostics here is the link just to have it here...http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/mercruiser36.html#/0 ...Also correct on the cooling, mine is a standard raw water set up. ill be calling whipple Monday morning to see what they can offer as compared to a local shop doing a field test and or buying a new ECM.

On the multimeter: I have a fairly nice fluke meter that ive been using through this whole ordeal, I used it to watch the voltages on each of the ecm plug wires during a run/ die cycle and I was using a 60w halogen light to load test the harness, my reason was to pull a good current draw for a period of time and check for voltage drops. Again the ECM was unplugged for these tests. Also I agree with you on the static wrist band however ill be honest, I did not use one here.

I thought the same thing as you, wherein that by touching the suspect wire I was causing the pin connector to contact the pin in the ECM. thinking this I took apart the ECM plug and inspected the suspect wire. it looks fine, I also slightly crimped the pin connector to ensure it had a connection. put it back together and I get the same problem starts and runs great for a period of time then dies.

It took me a few days to figure out exactly what I had going on here but the conclusion (so far) is, it is not the action of grounding the case that "fixes the problem" it is that action of pulling a current through the case using the case as a ground that "fixes the problem". A little clarity: the test light has 2 leads, A&B, A is + and B is -. I connected lead A+ to the engine breaker(known good 12v supply) and merely touched lead B- to the case. the light does not light up however the ECM comes on and does its thing until I remove lead B then the ECM shuts down. During this "test" I did not touch the suspect wire so I know it had to of had a connection to the ECM the whole time .......Baffling...to me at least.

question on the ECM case being grounded. Am I missing something here? the ECM is mounted with 3 bolts all three have rubber casings/grommets and do not contact the case. How is the ECM grounded using the hardware? My friend the chevy mechanic mentioned this as well saying that cars have a ground wire to the ECM case. also the case shows a ground on the meter but if I check for continuity to the battery negative I get nothing, this is with the ecm plugged in, but now I want to check for ground while its unplugged and see what happens.

PS I have a video of me clicking the ecm on/off using the light, but I like it here off the grid and don't have or want a way to post it, unless I can do it directly to here?
 

Dave^5

Cadet
Joined
Jun 27, 2015
Messages
17
I have another question to put out there... the sticker on my current ECM is faded but I can still make it out. You said my old computer number was 864377T05, well this is my sticker:

350 Mag Bravo
864377-005
864916
**super faded...my...something.....bravo....something

is that -005 the same as T05? Or do I have something wrong here?
 

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
8,808
Yes you may be correct that the rubber grommet doesn't allow case grounding using the hardware. I guess I just figured the grommet was mainly used to help reduce vibration. Was thinking the bushing helped with grounding along with the stainless washer and bolt.

When ordering a new ECM, it's best to use the parts catalog as that is the actual part number dealers would use. The numbers found on the ECM would help ID the ecm but it's more used when calling Mercruiser service support as they have the access to those numbers vs a dealer. Here's how the numbers play out for Merc service support, http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/ma...ser36.html#/38

Now with that mentioned, sometimes if you run the ECM numbers online, you might be able to come up with someone that has listed those numbers that may have a used one for sale such as eBay for example. Here's one I located for you though it looks to be an old listing. http://picclick.com/Mercruiser-57L-3...500409418.html

Also on some ECM models, Mercruiser does offer at a slightly lower cost a remanufactured ECM. Look for an R at the end of the part number. You might try calling Merc customer support for a reman part number should a dealer can't locate it for you. https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/...mer-assistance
 

Dave^5

Cadet
Joined
Jun 27, 2015
Messages
17
Cool thanks for the info I have some phone calls in my future. In the mean time I'm still curious if anyone has experienced a similar situation as mine. I know these ecm's don't go bad often but am I really that unique? Untill I get it tested, hopefully next week, I'm stuck swaging....scientific wild a$$ guessing....something way in the back of my mind is saying to put a small resistor on the wake up line to drop the volts by say a 1/2 volt. That logic comes from, if the light is pulling the volts down a bit and then the ecm comes on, maybe I can keep it on by putting in a resistor.... I'll have to get out there and look at a few things but I'll update if I find anything.
 

Dave^5

Cadet
Joined
Jun 27, 2015
Messages
17
a quick update, I left the test light hooked up to the computer case this weekend and it ran flawlessly. again I have no idea how or why but it worked. I have decided instead of a $1600 new computer, I am going to pull the F.I parts off and put a carburetor/intake and HEI dizzy on it. personally I feel more confident with a good old carburetor in the salt water anyway, and I can do it for half the cost.
 

Stonefingers

Recruit
Joined
Mar 29, 2019
Messages
5
I know this is a old post, but it was very helpful since I had very similar symptoms on a 2007 5.0 MPI.
No codes on my scanner and I had replaced most of the ignition components. The main difference was my engine would also surge at higher rpm almost like it was a fuel issue. Fuel pressure was fine at all times and never really moved a few psi and maintained 38-40 psi.
After pulling my hair out for weeks I got a message scanner lost comm with ECM when I was scanning the motor while it surged. I had the benefit of swapping the ECM from my other motor and the problem went away. I thought the ECM was the issue once it got warm from running. I let the ECM cool down and re-installed it, the problem never came back. The only thing I can think of was possibly a connection issue at the ECM due to moisture getting in the plugs.
Cleaned up everything with electronic cleaner and time will tell if the problem was solved

Mike
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top