Lower Shift Cable Replacement DIY

[nateo]

ok, got a big job coming up, going to replace my engine coupler this weekend. Going to do lower shift cable at same time while I have engine out. I watched some videos and read up on it. Now, some posts mention going ahead and replacing the shift shaft seal. Parts bag didn't come with that puppy. Is this a must to replace, worth making another trip to get? Also are there any other gotcha's that I should look out for? For example one thread I read mentioned something about having to tap new threads for "new" style cable. Also is replacement of shift bellow a must (he didn't replace in video I watched)? I did the exhaust bellows last year and it was a real pain to replace.

 

[poconojoe]

I didn't have to "retap" anything. I did have a hard time getting the old one removed from the bell housing. It was seized in there. As far as the shift cable bellows, you sould replace that. A faulty one can let major water into your boat. It's not a dfficult thing to do.

 

[alldodge]

ok, got a big job coming up, going to replace my engine coupler this weekend. Going to do lower shift cable at same time while I have engine out. I watched some videos and read up on it. Now, some posts mention going ahead and replacing the shift shaft seal. Parts bag didn't come with that puppy. Is this a must to replace, worth making another trip to get? Also are there any other gotcha's that I should look out for? For example one thread I read mentioned something about having to tap new threads for "new" style cable. Also is replacement of shift bellow a must (he didn't replace in video I watched)? I did the exhaust bellows last year and it was a real pain to replace.

The ones that need to be taped are real old ones. The drive shaft boot is a biggy and needs replaced way before the exhaust. If the exhaust boot rips, no biggy, just makes it louder, the drive shaft boot cause a boat to sink and wipes things out.

If your replacing the shift cable, do replace the shift cable boot.

 

[NHGuy]

Take off the flywheel while you are at it and put in a rear main seal. Cheap and easy. Inspect the oil pan, fuel pump mount and front cover for oil leaks, you can't change them in the boat. Also you would not regret spending $40 on one of those oil change tubes that get put into the oil pan and you pull the tube out the transom drain hole to change your oil.
I will give you another idea or two. Take pics beforehand so you can look back at hose and wire routing. Use line wrenches at the power steering rack to remove the lines. No regular wrenches, they round off the hexes. Then tie the p.s. lines together with a bungee and hang em up high so they don't drip everywhere.
Clean up the bilge all pretty while it's occupant is out.

 

[nateo]

Take off the flywheel while you are at it and put in a rear main seal. Cheap and easy. Inspect the oil pan, fuel pump mount and front cover for oil leaks, you can't change them in the boat. Also you would not regret spending $40 on one of those oil change tubes that get put into the oil pan and you pull the tube out the transom drain hole to change your oil.
I will give you another idea or two. Take pics beforehand so you can look back at hose and wire routing. Use line wrenches at the power steering rack to remove the lines. No regular wrenches, they round off the hexes. Then tie the p.s. lines together with a bungee and hang em up high so they don't drip everywhere.
Clean up the bilge all pretty while it's occupant is out.

I noticed engine already has the oil change tube, I was wondering what that was. Might have to pickup a rms. Gotta finish rebuilding the motor mount box first though, discovered it was rotted after pulling the engine.

 

[nateo]

I didn't have to "retap" anything. I did have a hard time getting the old one removed from the bell housing. It was seized in there. As far as the shift cable bellows, you sould replace that. A faulty one can let major water into your boat. It's not a dfficult thing to do.

How did you get that sucker out? I'm still having problems with mine. Stripped it round. So far I've tried drilling it out and making the hole bigger and then using a few different sizes of those easy outs. That sucker is still seized in there. I've also tried heat. I wish I wouldn't even tried to replace it. I discovered afterwards the only problem was that the inner core had a kink in it.