Faulty Starter?

[Thomv]

When we went out last Monday our Port engine starter would turn over the motor slowly. Sometimes even the starter solenoid would start to make a very rapid clicking noise. Went I got home I checked and the battery was fully charged and none of the connections were loose or corroded. I do suspect I may be dealing with a bad starter. This problem started suddenly without any warning. Trying to get to this starter is going to be challenging because it is between both motors and very difficult to get to. I am thinking of removing both side by side risers along with the rubber exhaust extentions going to the back of the transom. Any other suggestions on what else may need to be removed to make getting to this starter a little more easier. Both motors are 454 MPI's.

 

[alldodge]

When we went out last Monday our Port engine starter would turn over the motor slowly. Sometimes even the starter solenoid would start to make a very rapid clicking noise. Went I got home I checked and the battery was fully charged and none of the connections were loose or corroded. I do suspect I may be dealing with a bad starter. This problem started suddenly without any warning. Trying to get to this starter is going to be challenging because it is between both motors and very difficult to get to. I am thinking of removing both side by side risers along with the rubber exhaust extentions going to the back of the transom. Any other suggestions on what else may need to be removed to make getting to this starter a little more easier. Both motors are 454 MPI's.

Don't think it's the starter, not with the clicking noise. That noise is the dead give away for a weak battery or bad connection. Cables may look clean and tight but there are two ends to each cable and both need to be clean and tight. I would recommend removing both ends and check the cable close up for corrosion. Then get some shinny metal showing and reconnect

This goes more so for the grounds

 

[gm280]

I agree with AllDodge. Sounds more like a battery OR cable connection issues. The fact that you stated that you can hardly get to the starter means the connection on that start hasn't been removed and cleans as well. I would certainly take the time to remove every connection and regardless how good you thing they look, clean them back to shiny metal and retighten them again before doing anything else. Even if it doesn't solve your starting problem, it will make a new starter crank so much more easily as well. So nothing lost but a little time and effort... JMHO!

 

[poconojoe]

Make sure the wires are good too. I once had a truck which I cleaned the connections and still had a problem. After I replaced the big wire to the starer, everything was good. I disected the old wire and found it was corroded under the insulation. I kept cutting pieces off and kept seeing green corroded copper. And this was all done AFTER I changed the starter!

 

[Bondo]

I disected the old wire and found it was corroded under the insulation. I kept cutting pieces off and kept seeing green corroded copper.

Ayuh,..... I've found that on outboard motors quite often,.....

Showin' Power everywhere, but wouldn't crank,... Replaced the cable, 'n All is Good,....

Where it laid in the bilge, it'd corroded badly, so only a couple strands were carrin' Voltage, but couldn't carry the Amperage,...
Just a tiny nick in the casin',...

 

[Thomv]

On Saturday I will be checking the connections on the starter and cleaning them. Hopefully this solves my problem.

 

[Thomv]

After about 4 hours I was able to get my starter out. The terminals were so tight I ended up having to cut them off with my dremel tool. It is amazing this stater even attempted to turn over the motor. The back of the starter was completely rusted out and the armature shaft was protruding out the back of the starter. Even the round housing was almost rusted completely through. To get to the starter I ended up having to take off the riser and thru hull exhaust tube on that side of the motor.

 

[NHGuy]

They are so bad to reach. I once did one on my 350 by reaching under the motor, What a PITA, feel for you brother.
If you took off the thru hull tube and riser why not take off the exhaust manifold too? Or is your starter a top mount?
This is time for power tools, a battery or air ratchet will turn down those bolts when you put it back. Just hand start everything first.

 

[Thomv]

They are so bad to reach. I once did one on my 350 by reaching under the motor, What a PITA, feel for you brother.
If you took off the thru hull tube and riser why not take off the exhaust manifold too? Or is your starter a top mount?
This is time for power tools, a battery or air ratchet will turn down those bolts when you put it back. Just hand start everything first.

I was able to reach the starter without having to take off the exhaust manifold. Working on both motors is a killer because there is very little room in the engine bay and the fixed back seat is right up against both motors and is a real pain to remove because of all the wiring and the power hatch mounting on this rear panel. I still have a flooding condition I need to fix. When I just replaced both exhaust manifolds and risers one of my exhaust outlets was very wet with gas. I believe this is because this particular fuel injector is leaking fuel.

 

[NHGuy]

Well take it out and clean it. Put it back in a different hole and see if the problem follows.