Anyone willing to waste some time

Amatuer Hour

Cadet
Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
15
I'm sure the older members are tired of these posts, but I'm another new boat owner without a clue. (skip to the question in bold to avoid the long story)

I bought it a couple years ago with the intention to go boating, 1994 Bayliner capri the owners were elderly neighbors that said it had been winterized only a 'couple' of years ago I found a recipt in the glovebox for a winterization service but it was dated 2004 so probably 11 years of sitting with no protection in Idaho. (last registration 2000) The floor was rotted out and caving in, a knowledgable boat friend and I ripped out all the rotted wood and got a look at the stringers and transom, we did a little drill test and clean dry wood came out he said the structure was good to run. All of the electrical switches were hit and miss most things seemed to work except bilge pump, and horn. The outdrive moved up and down effortlessly except I had to use the ''trailer'' switch to move up the regular trim up switch didn't do anything. I turned the key and heard a click-click-click-click possibly a starter? Also not sure where I need to connect a garden hose to run the engine, it is a mercruiser 3.0L alpha one.

That was the last I touched the boat, a month after I brought it home I let someone borrow my truck (tow rig) and they ended up rolling the truck on it's top.
It was a lot of work but that truck is finally driveable again but my expert boat friend has moved away.

P5090152_zpsd1c8eaef.jpg


The truck turned into almost a full resto-mod

IMG_0491_zps11edf9d3.jpg


IMG_1278_zpsy9azezlg.jpg
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,468
I turned the key and heard a click-click-click-click possibly a starter? Also not sure where I need to connect a garden hose to run the engine, it is a mercruiser 3.0L alpha one.

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,.... Is the battery fully charged,..??

If so,... Clean the battery terminals, 'n wire connections to Shiny metal Clean,....
Both ends of Both cables,.... Positive cable at the starter, 'n the ground at the block,....
Clean All the starter terminals while yer there, includin' the tiny ones,...
The exciter wire, yellow/ red, comes from the slave solenoid, Clean all that solenoid's terminals, 'n wirin' ends too,...

To feed water to it, My guess is the impeller in the lower unit is probably junk, 'n needs replacin',... with unknown history, I'd do the full Kit,...

Once the impeller is fresh, ya need a set of Muffs, that ya screw to the end of yer hose, 'n slide onto the lower unit, coverin' the water intake slots,...
Turn the water on full blast, 'n hit the key,....
 

Dave-R

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
441
If you can repair the truck from that state, boating is going to be a piece of cake. First thing I would do is see if the engine will run. If it does, I'd do what Bondo said,change impeller,change oil.get rid of the old gas, and change the fuel & water separator filter. Welcome to the club. Dave-R
 

bspeth

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
756
I think your battery is shot. And your trim limit switch.Just hang around here and you can find every bit of knowledge you need.You can run it fine without the limit switch,just don't trim it too far up while running(about 2 seconds duration up from full in/down)These guys are right.Read through adults only.Hope you hang around.
 

Amatuer Hour

Cadet
Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
15
Thank you!

I put a brand new battery in it when doing all the initial testing but have not cleaned any of the terminals on the engine/starter. So that is something I can do this weekend.

The interior on this boat is shot, no real upholstery left but when I opened the engine canopy it looked new, the last owner said the boat only had 15 hours of run time- not sure if that is true. When I first moved into this house I saw this boat and it was filled to the brim with snow/ice. I was mowing the lawn a couple years later and she came over and asked if I wanted to buy a boat for $500 bucks.

Do I need something like this?

muffs.jpg


Just want to make sure before I walk into a boat service store and ask for muffs I wont get slapped.


The old reciept I found in the glove box for the last service or 'winterization' of this boat says all the fuel was drained- hopefully that prevented any of the typical ethanol gunk solidifying.

P7040021_zpsa24973d0.jpg


This was during pulling all the rotted wood out, looks like the lack of support around the ski box is what caused the gel coat to crack and wood to rot.

P7040003_zpsd5cd4c85.jpg



P5100167_zps0fd4d386.jpg


Just a little dusty, I was expecting to find a oily, greasy pile of bolts when I opened the canopy.


Thank you for all the replies and advice!
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
10,201
welcome to the forum and read below.

If you can repair the truck from that state, boating is going to be a piece of cake. First thing I would do is see if the engine will run. If it does, I'd do what Bondo said,change impeller,change oil.get rid of the old gas, and change the fuel & water separator filter. Welcome to the club. Dave-R
 

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
8,776
Do I need something like this?

muffs.jpg


Just want to make sure before I walk into a boat service store and ask for muffs I wont get slapped.!

No you need something like one of these.
I'm not all that sure why AllDodge is saying no to the OEM quicksilver engine flush kit part number 44357Q2 like in your photo above, but it will work just as well on your 1994 Alpha Gen 2 stern drive.

Using the quicksilver engine flush kit is a personal preference of mine as it offers a good tight fit when pushed together with effort which is very important to avoid sucking air. It's nice because the bar that goes through the lower water pickup holes reduces the chance of the flush kit sliding off the lower unit while under water pressure. There's also less of a chance of the long U bar becoming in the way of the propeller during shift testing while on the trailer should it slide down or back a little. Plus, 'should the lower unit be dirty, the U bar design has a tendency to slightly scratch the surface of the lower unit as it slides on and off.

Again like engine oils, Hydrofoils, Trim Tabs, spark plugs, OEM vs aftermarket parts and a few other what product is better to use over another, it's just personal preference but the one AllDodge recommends is more universal for most other engine manufacturers vs the quicksilver flush kit design.
 

Amatuer Hour

Cadet
Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
15
Thank you for the replies, I cleaned off the terminals today and had a friend turn the key while I used a multi meter on the solenoid it was reading -12.28 volts with key on it only went to about +4.40 volts and I never saw anything near 12 volts at the starter. After a few tries the solenoid wouldn't send anymore volts to the starter so no more click-click-click, but the starter also just clicked when I jumped the solenoid with a screwdriver.

I think I'll have to take the starter out and have o'rielly's test it, if it passes it should be safe to buy a new solenoid.

$_12.JPG
 

adamjr

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 23, 2009
Messages
272
Before heading off to buy anything I would do two things. I would follow Bondo's instructions for cleaning all the electrical connection points to shiny metal clean. I would also invest in a decent battery charger in the event you don't currently own one. A decent charger has an ammeter on the control panel and has multiple settings for different current settings from trickle charge up to start/boost. Use one of the middle settings and charge the battery fully until the gauge reflects that it is charged. I just went through this exact same symptom with my truck which is seldom used and sits a lot. Corroded cables would have been all that would have required replacement if not for the terminal that broke off on the solenoid when I attempted to take the cables off.

The rot in the deck is significant. I wish you luck that it hasn't rotted the stringers and transom as well. You may have your work cut out for you. Good luck.
 

Amatuer Hour

Cadet
Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
15
A bit delayed but I finally got around to pulling the starter, looks like the original and they painted the engines with the starter installed.

89227C25-B218-4EBC-9E5F-F5C8FF3115EB_zpswpqixdkk.jpg



I took it to the auto parts store and had it wired up to the tester and the bendix/gear wouldn't budge (even with tapping and coaxing) so it failed.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Looks like that starter lived underwater for a few years.

What part of Idaho you in? I'm up north in Grangeville.

Rick
 

Amatuer Hour

Cadet
Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
15
I think the picture makes it look like rust, the guy at the auto parts store said it looked like a brand new starter.

I'm in the Ammon / Idaho falls area. The snake river and a boat ramp are literally down the street lol

Does anyone know a good (meaning lowest price) place to buy a replacement starter? I see a lot online that say 96+ 3.0L mercruiser, none for a 1994.
 

sjl74

Cadet
Joined
Jul 14, 2015
Messages
14
Try napa they just got one for my 5.7 only cost $160. The marina wanted $350
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,468
I see a lot online that say 96+ 3.0L mercruiser, none for a 1994.

Ayuh,....... Chevy Marine starters only come in 2 flavors, the straight across bolt pattern, 'n the staggered bolt pattern,.....

Which motor don't matter, from the 2.5l to the 454s, they're all the same, other than which bolt pattern,.....
 

jayhanig

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 27, 2010
Messages
836
Try napa they just got one for my 5.7 only cost $160. The marina wanted $350

Aren't marine starters built to a different standard than auto starters? To keep things from blowing up due to gas fumes that may be present?
 

Amatuer Hour

Cadet
Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
15
Thank you for all the information everyone very helpful!

I found this starter, it looks a lot different, but it has the same solenoid 'bolt pattern' 1 large 1 small and staggered mounting.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCRUISER-...ER-/400862463504?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

!CDRJFtgCWk~$(KGrHqUOKowE0fe4jMQtBNN-vUnWp!~~_12.JPG


This 1 has an extra solinoid connection my original starter doesn't have.

wolthuis.aspx


http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-2282-mercruiser-volvo-omc-43-350-marine-mini-starter-pm300-marine.aspx?CAWELAID=130000240000000102&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CNnX95rD8MYCFYZefgodQ0UFQw
 

Idlespeedonly

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 30, 2011
Messages
779
That sure looks like a plain ol' chevy starter.
It looks like it lacks the gasket on the solenoid and the rubber grommet on the lead going into the starter is just the standard grommet.
Unless that isnt a picture of what they plan to send you.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,468
Ayuh,.... I've been replacin' starters with the permanent magnet starters for Years now,.....
The Marine versions still have the little ssteel plate 'tween the motor, 'n bendix drive,.....
Less that 1/2 the weight/ bulk of the ole style pictured,....

The gear reduction drive starters, are marine just by their basic separated design,....
Whole different, expensive breed though,....

Merc also came out with new starter bolts, that take a 1/2" socket, rather than the usual 9/16" socket for easier clearance,.......
Wish I had the part numbers, but don't,....
 
Top