Not your typical exhaust manifold problem - please assess

Ozshadow

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 23, 2013
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46
This boat has the 1999 L29 7.4mpi (0L354842). (1999 Sundancer 270 wide with single 7.4 B3) It has always been a freshwater boat.

Today I ran it on the muffs preparing for Spring launch and I noticed very faint condensation/steam coming from the starboard manifold.

It appears to be an issue on the bottom side bend into the front cylinder. There is a heat shield almost right against the manifold because the fuel filter is located below.


This is the starboard side. It appears damp and flaking rust under the front cylinder port with the heat shield.

It looks like it continues to get wet through weeping or perhaps trapping water (can't recall if any openings on the hatch are above). I would guess it has been this way for a long time because the cast iron is really deteriorating and flaking. There is no water or rust on the block. It appears to stay contained in the heat shield area and the bend.

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Port side does not look damp or flaky. Possibly replaced as this port manifold has a blue drain plug? The starboard side that is wet does not have a drain plug. Both have the same casting number though.

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This is is an unusual spot. Do you think it is a real problem?


Do you think the port side may have been replaced before? I would rather not replace both unless I have to. Again, this is and always has been a fresh water, Great Lakes boat.


When I take them apart, what should I look at?

I have read several threads here about replacing salt water boats manifolds and risers all at 5 years, but freshwater failures are almost unheard of.

I prefer OEM Mercruiser if I have to replace it. Any brands to definitely avoid?
 
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achris

More fish than mountain goat
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May 19, 2004
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27,468
As your engine serial number is incomplete, I can't tell what manifolds you have, wet or dry-joint. It may be that the heat shield is allowing water to pool and cause the corrosion. You do need to track down the source of the water. If it's a leaking gasket (and again as I can't look up your engine I can't advise on which manifolds and gaskets you have) a gasket replacement might fix it. If it's a cracked manifold, maybe due to poor winterising, then you'd be up for replacing the manifold...

As far as brands to avoid, GLM is right up there at the top. I'm like you and prefer, especially on manifolds, OEM...

Chris.........
 
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Ozshadow

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Jun 23, 2013
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Complete serial is 0L354842

I plan to pull the manifold. The riser and elbow gaskets do not leak externally. (It has 6" risers, raw water cooled) Nothing leaks down the side of the engine block.

I have had the boat for 1 year. I do not recall seeing anything in that spot, but given the level of flaking rust, it had to have been staying damp on that shield area for a while.
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... This manifold is Busted, probably from freezin',....

IMG_1201_zps0ohavw1v.jpg
 

Ozshadow

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Jun 23, 2013
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Here is the weak spot. Continuous leaking on the heat shield has deteriorated the cast iron from the plug down down to the underside. This has been going on for a while. I only winterized this one once by manually draining and pouring in all hoses so fairly certain my work was fine. On a positive note, all exhaust ports in the head, risers and manifold were black, rust free with plenty of metal


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tpenfield

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Do you have the stainless steel elbows ??? If so, they have probably depleted the iron in the exhaust manifolds. (been there done that) Best to get a new set of manifolds.
 

Ozshadow

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Jun 23, 2013
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New manifold was ordered. One of the studs hold the heat shield snapped the outer portion threads and nuts. I removed it with the inner nut that was part of the actual stud, but the replacement is $40 for one stainless steel stud (16-860165 STUD)!

I need to confirm the threads, as the outer nut was 1/2" and the inner nut made on the stud came out with a 1/2 socket, but it may not have been, since I had to beat the socket on. The threads are dual.

I need to find a replacement alternative for both. That is ridiculous.

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Ozshadow

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Jun 23, 2013
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46
Is there any harm in using a standard manifold bolt and bolting it through the shield? I may have to drill the holes slightly. $40 for that stud is nuts. I'm not even sure the shield does all that much.
 

Idlespeedonly

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Jun 30, 2011
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779
You can use a standard grade 8 bolt. Just have to be careful as soon as it starts to get tight it may try to turn the shield also.
I would leave the shield on it. Its there for a reason.
 

Bondo

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Is there any harm in using a standard manifold bolt and bolting it through the shield? I may have to drill the holes slightly. $40 for that stud is nuts. I'm not even sure the shield does all that much.

Ayuh,.... Go for it,... 'n drill a small hole to drain the darn thing,......

Standin' water rotted out the manifold,....
That's the Hottest 3" of manifold, 'n the fuel line is just below it,....

Modify the shield, but don't toss it,....
 
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