Would a car-type electric fuel pump work for emergency use on a carbureted 5.0L Merc?

[Homerr]

My boat has the 5.0L Mercruiser. It is the 2bbl carburetor variety. The OEM fuel pump is part # 861155A3.
Question: As I always keep a spare electric pump in my older pickup in case its mechanical one failed, would it work in a pinch for my boat?

The specs on the boat's pump is something like 9-10 psi max. The working pressure for a typical (carburetor) car pump is around 7-8 psi if memory serves, so shouldn't it work for the boat? I would have to get creative with some brass fittings of sorts so it would bolt in, but that shouldn't be a problem. I wouldn't even need to go through the water separator. Just rig the pump with a filter and fittings - and rubber hose it straight from the fuel tank to the carb. Again - for backup only until I can get a proper replacement.

It hasn't happened to me YET... but I bet some of you have had a perfect fishing-camping trip ruined by a fuel pump that decided to give up.
I often go to a lake in the high mountains, so getting a proper pump replacement would be impossible without traveling at least 3 hours in any direction. A day killer at least - maybe two depending on how cooperative the old pump wants to be in its R&R.

Yea, I kmow.. why not just buy the exact pump for backup? I would, but they aren't exactly cheap. The pump that's on it now could last another 10 years, so that would be an expensive 'what if' sitting in the tool box collecting dust. A standard electric pump is pennies compared to the OEM boat pump.

Thoughts?

 

[achris]

.... A standard electric pump is pennies compared to the OEM boat pump....

But not marine rated... Use at your own risk... Unfortunately it's not just you who's at risk, it's anyone else unfortunate to be on the boat at the time.

If it's an electrical or fuel system part and not marine rated, don't even think about it. If you are that concerned about a failed pump, get a marine one as spare. And stop risking people's lives.

Chris.......

 

[NHGuy]

Don't rig the tubing for the wrong pump that could kill you. That's just wrong and misguided. You are better off paddling home than exploding.
I have heard a boat explode and seen it burn up. We were a few miles away and heard the initial boom. We drove into view and stayed about a mile back. It's violent, complete combustion. We heard later that fortunately no one was aboard, so no loss of life. But I can say with certainty anyone aboard would have been in a bad place.
If you need a spare pump, get one, or find a source where it can be obtained and keep them in your notes. You'd be better off saving your money to buy a correct bombproof marine rated one.
Electric components in bilge gotta be completely marine.

 

[Fun Times]

The OEM fuel pump is part # 861155A3.

Or keep an eye out for the equivalent to your OEM part number Airtex E11003 at a slightly lower cost. eBay for example.

Honestly I'd be more prepared for the ignition sensor under the distributor cap to cause a no spark situation as it's more susceptible to failure then that style fuel pump.....Yes that fuel pump has been know to sometimes get stuck internally but like a starter, you can "sometimes" get away with tapping on it to free it up should it get stuck....Same with tapping the needle and seat area of the top of carb should it get stuck on you as well out there.

This site linked below seems to be down at the moment but should it get working again there's some good troubleshooting tips covering the Merc fuel pump.
Electric Fuel Pump Troubleshooting - Marine Mechanic

 

[Bondo]

My boat has the 5.0L Mercruiser. It is the 2bbl carburetor variety. The OEM fuel pump is part # 861155A3.
Question: As I always keep a spare electric pump in my older pickup in case its mechanical one failed, would it work in a pinch for my boat?

The specs on the boat's pump is something like 9-10 psi max. The working pressure for a typical (carburetor) car pump is around 7-8 psi if memory serves, so shouldn't it work for the boat? I would have to get creative with some brass fittings of sorts so it would bolt in, but that shouldn't be a problem. I wouldn't even need to go through the water separator. Just rig the pump with a filter and fittings - and rubber hose it straight from the fuel tank to the carb. Again - for backup only until I can get a proper replacement.

It hasn't happened to me YET... but I bet some of you have had a perfect fishing-camping trip ruined by a fuel pump that decided to give up.
I often go to a lake in the high mountains, so getting a proper pump replacement would be impossible without traveling at least 3 hours in any direction. A day killer at least - maybe two depending on how cooperative the old pump wants to be in its R&R.

Yea, I kmow.. why not just buy the exact pump for backup? I would, but they aren't exactly cheap. The pump that's on it now could last another 10 years, so that would be an expensive 'what if' sitting in the tool box collecting dust. A standard electric pump is pennies compared to the OEM boat pump.

Thoughts?

Ayuh,..... Carbs, Any carbs need 4 to 6 psi, Ideally,.....

As reliable as a mechanical fuel pump is, I donno as I see the need for thinkin' of by-passin' it at sea,....
another 5 lbs of junk in the hull that don't need to be there, cuttin' into yer fuel mileage,....

Yer more apt to have such problems from bad Fuel, than a bad fuel pump,....
It's bad Fuel, that kills mechanical fuel pumps,.....