1991 Tidecraft Calypso with 120HP Mercruiser

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
I just picked up the above boat and have some questions regarding the out-drive gimble bellows. The exhaust bellows is split and upon removing the out-drive I found the drive shaft bellows is full of oil. I did some reading and found that I need to replace the input seal on the lower unit and the bellows.
Here is what I was going to do as preventative maintenance. Let me know if I am missing something please.
1. All 3 Bellows.
2. Lower shift cable
3. Gimble bearing.
4. Water hose.
5. Trim sender. (Trim Gauge does not move from 3/4 up. I am going to run some tests to confirm dead sender.)
6. Water Pump.

The Uni-joints appear OK. No play or corrosion. The move real free compared to the uni-joints new out of the box but that might be normal. Newbie here.
Thanks.
Ray
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Hello Ray,

That all sounds good. If you need help with any of it (including 'how to' videos), or understanding how it works, then at the top of this fourm index page you'll find the 'stickies', one is titled 'Adults Only'... Click that and then Mercruiser Info. You'll find most things you're looking for up there.

Just one thing. Mercruiser stopped supplying the 120 in 1989, so to help, we need the serial number from the engine. Also up in the stickies you'll find a document on where to look for the serial numbers.

Cheers,

Chris......
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,582
I just picked up the above boat and have some questions regarding the out-drive gimble bellows. The exhaust bellows is split and upon removing the out-drive I found the drive shaft bellows is full of oil. I did some reading and found that I need to replace the input seal on the lower unit and the bellows.
Here is what I was going to do as preventative maintenance. Let me know if I am missing something please.
1. All 3 Bellows.
2. Lower shift cable
3. Gimble bearing.
4. Water hose.
5. Trim sender. (Trim Gauge does not move from 3/4 up. I am going to run some tests to confirm dead sender.)
6. Water Pump.

The Uni-joints appear OK. No play or corrosion. The move real free compared to the uni-joints new out of the box but that might be normal. Newbie here.
Thanks.
Ray

I wouldn't mess with the U joints unless you have or see and issue
 

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
OK I'll search for the serials. Something I should do before I order parts too I guess.
Thanks.
 
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rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
I just had a quick look at the tag on the motor. The serial is gone. I will do some more hunting in the morning. Might be better to look if it is not dark.
 

Alumarine

Captain
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
3,684
There might be a serial number for the drive on the drive that would help you out for parts.
Also, you should pressure test the drive to see if any other seals need replacing.
 

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
Ordered the following today.

Wrench - 91-17256
Upper Seal Kit - 18-2648
Hinge Pin Tool
Bellows Adhesive - 18-9031
Bellows Kit - 30-803097T 1
Trim Sender & Limit Switch
Lower Shift Cable Kit
Water Pump Impeller Kit

That should keep me busy for a while.
 

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
I need help with the trim wiring if possible. I have the following wires from the rear of the boat.
blue/white
red/white
purple/white
green/white
I have the following from the remote
Toggle switch one.
blue
red
green
Toggle switch two.
red
The Remote is a Hi-lex one with zero info available. I'm pressuming toggle switch one on the handle is trim up/down. Toggle switch two might be tilt??
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
I need help with the trim wiring if possible. I have the following wires from the rear of the boat.
blue/white UP trim solenoid
red/white Power for trim switches
purple/white trim limit switch
green/white DOWN trim solenoid
I have the following from the remote
Toggle switch one.
blue Goes to blue/white
red Goes to Red/white
green Goes to green/white
Toggle switch two.
red
The Remote is a Hi-lex one with zero info available. I'm pressuming toggle switch one on the handle is trim up/down. Toggle switch two might be tilt??

This setup will allow you to tilt all the way up and down with switch one. If you want to use switch 2 as a TILT switch and switch one to just come up to the trim limit, let me know and I'll rejig the wiring for you...

Chris..
 

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
Thanks Chris
I did some more digging and the wires were connected as follows:
Switch 1
RED - Green/White
BLUE - Red/White & Switch 2 RED
GREEN - Blue White

I would like to wire it up using the 2 switches if possible as right now the purple/white is not connected to anything.

I tested the switch 1:
When I press UP I get continuity from GREEN to BLUE
When I press DOWN I get continuity from RED to BLUE
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
I tested the switch 1:
When I press UP I get continuity from GREEN to BLUE
When I press DOWN I get continuity from RED to BLUE

So, it looks like they aren't using recognised standard wire colours. :facepalm:...

So, the 'Power in' on the switch is blue, so connect the trim harness white/red to switch 1 blue. UP is green :facepalm: :facepalm: so connect harness white/blue to the switch green. That just leaves the red as DOWN, :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: so connect harness white/green to the switch red.....

Don't you just love it when 'off the wall' manufacturers try to re-invent the codes that everybody else has been using forever?

Good luck,

Chris..........
EDIT: Just re-read you post... You have those hook ups. I'll figure out the connection for switch 2 as the TILT. Do you know if the wire set up for that switch is the same as switch 1?
 
Last edited:

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Ok... Assuming the wiring is the same... and that the limit switch is plugged in and working at the trim pump end.

Move the white/blue to one of the switch 2 switched wires (your choice, but I'd put it on the green).
Put the white/purple on switch 1 green.

If everything is right, you should now be able to run all the way from full UP to full DOWN with switch 1 DOWN. Run up to the trim limit with switch 1 UP, and all the way UP (from both full DOWN and trim limit UP) with switch 2 UP.

HTH....

Chris........
 

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
No Title

A lot of talk on wire colors so I decided to sketch the current setup. Feel free to edit!
 

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rayodunne

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Ignoring the current colors on the controller this is what I think the wiring should be like according to the research I have done and the help Chris has provided.
 

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rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
Thanks Chris for confiring that! I corrected the colours on the switches also for less confusion in the future. I'm also going to connect green/white to button 2 for tilt down.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
.... I'm also going to connect green/white to button 2 for tilt down.

I was going to suggest that, but figured one switch was enough. The other possibility is to replace switch 2 with a simple push (momentary) ON/OFF type switch, in the same way Merc control have....
 
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