4.3 out of boat. What do do while it's out?

[Stamey]

I am pulling the 1996 4.3L Vortec, balance-shaft engine from my boat because of a leak in the transom I cannot find, and the ring gear may be damaged due to a loose starter. I am trying to figure out what I should do to it while it's out and on a stand.
Engine bottom end is original, as far as I know. I pulled the heads in Nov. 2012 because it had a leaky valve. Did a complete valve job (did not need any new valves) and put it back together. Runs very nice.
I was thinking about checking the bearing clearance and possibly re-ringing it, adding a high-volume oil pump and new timing chain set. I do not remember the exact compression numbers from when I was troubleshooting the leaky valve, but IIRC they were between 120 and 130.
I'm not building a race engine, as this powers a 24' deck boat, but I was wondering if I would gain anything by changing the cam, power, fuel efficiency, or both. I do not plan to change the compression ratio from stock as I like the price of Regular gas.
What do you recommend for this situation?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would put in a new crank seal and new snout seal myself.

 

[Alumarine]

I might be wrong but I'm not sure if there is an advantage with going to a high volume oil pump.

 

[Bondo]

I might be wrong but I'm not sure if there is an advantage with going to a high volume oil pump.

Ayuh,...... No advantage, 'n arguable possible major Disadvantages,....

Car motors don't run nearly the amount of long continuos hi-rpms,....

It's debated that a high volume pump can drain the base, before the oil can drain back down,...

 

[Alumarine]

Ayuh,...... No advantage, 'n arguable possible major Disadvantages,....

Car motors don't run nearly the amount of long continuos hi-rpms,....

It's debated that a high volume pump can drain the base, before the oil can drain back down,...

I think it was something you wrote previously that I remembered!

 

[Scott Danforth]

I have been running a high volume pump on the boat for years, and I run it at WOT for up to an hour at a time. I know that all my race buddies run a Melling hi volume pumps in their Mid Am cars turning between 4000 RPM and 7000 RPM continuously for 50+ laps (or until the wreck).

However unless you need to replace the pump, your existing pump is up to the task.

 

[Stamey]

OK, so maybe not on the HV oil pump. I do remember that my oil pressure was low at hot idle but jumped right up above idle, and cold it was 50+. I never did put a mechanical gauge on it. But this is why I plan to at least plastigauge the bearings while it's out. If abnormal wear is found you can bet I'll put bearings in it.I am trying to decide if I want to re-ring it too. I guess I'm trying to decide how far to go with the rebuild.

Chris

 

[300sflyer]

Check the splines in the coupler. If they are worn, now is a good time to replace it. And of course do an alignment before the drive goes back on.

 

[Dave-R]

Don't be like me, and find out the trim sender did not work until I put the engine back in. What a bugger . Dave-R.

 

[Stamey]

Check the splines in the coupler. If they are worn, now is a good time to replace it. And of course do an alignment before the drive goes back on.

Will do. Are there instructions here on doing the alignment?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[300sflyer]

Will do. Are there instructions here on doing the alignment?

Thanks,
Chris

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...es-outdrives/455000-engine-alignment-how-to-s

 

[joetheis]

Too bad you didn't do compression/cylinder leak down test before you pulled it.
If I were doing it, I'd roll the motor over, new bearing (rods and mains), of course new rear and front seals.
Expansion, (soft, freeze, what ever everyone calls them). flush the block out
New oil pump.
If you wanna go re-ring, check ring end gap, wrist pins, send the heads out to be redone.
High volume is OK oil pump, I personally prefer high PSI, (bearing ride on a film of oil), if you got the oil reserve run high if you want,, but a new bearing engine will be close tolerance and the oil PSI will be better (even with a stock oil pump).
Good oil.
Good break in.............
New bilge pump?
U joint?
cable?
billows??
Clean that bilge!
anything you see, inspect, lube, now!
Joe
Remember take any advice I give with a can of beer er 2!

 

[Stamey]

I just had the heads rebuilt after the season in 2012, so I feel confident they are fine. I will definitely be doing the expansion plugs, as when I flipped the engine over on the stand I found where they have been seeping and are becoming corroded. I can still do the leak-down test as the engine is together, except for the pan, which I pulled last night to begin plastigaging the bearings. So far I have only pulled #1 main and it gauged at .002. The bearing looks nice. No wear enough to see copper.
I will pop the rest of the caps this evening and see where they are.
I have low oil pressure at hot idle, but I found the specs for this engine and it says I should expect 6 psi at hot idle. Since I have an electric gauge, and they are not known for the accuracy, I may be just fine on the oil pressure. I would have liked to hok up a mechanical gauge but when the start began making oll that noise my priority changed to get the engine running enough to winterize and then no more starting it until I figure out the starter problem. Now that I know what the starter issue is, I could probably start it on the stand to check everything I need to check.
The u-joints on my drive shaft have plugs where the grease fittings would go. I am going to see if I have some grease fittings I can put in there.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Stamey]

I have found my leak, It's the Y-pipe, where it bolts to the transom plate. It was actually a loose bolt, which I tightened right there in the water, but since the engine is out I want to replace the seal/gasket. Does anyone have that part number?
Outdrive SN: 0F678198, engine SN: 0F821477

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Watermann]

Putting a new 'O' ring on the Y pipe before calling it good is a great idea. If it's not been done, replace the raw water line, all the bellows and a new gimbal bearing is cheap insurance too. Of course new LU water pump kit.

May need your transom assembly serial number.
https://webapps.brunswick.com/litera...atureSearch.do

 

[Stamey]

Thanks! That seal is on order.
Stern Unit PN: 5010181JP
Stern Model No: 6010000JS
SN: 0F678198

Also, can anyone tell me for sure, if my engine is a Gen +, vs. a regular 4.3? The reason I ask is because the Mercruiser manual #18 has a different torque procedure and torque value for the head bolts if it's a Gen +.
Engine SN: 0F821477

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Bondo]

Thanks! That seal is on order.
Stern Unit PN: 5010181JP
Stern Model No: 6010000JS
SN: 0F678198

Also, can anyone tell me for sure, if my engine is a Gen +, vs. a regular 4.3? The reason I ask is because the Mercruiser manual #18 has a different torque procedure and torque value for the head bolts if it's a Gen +.
Engine SN: 0F821477

Thanks,
Chris

Ayuh,.... The Gen.+ uses 8 intake to head bolts, the older 4.3l, uses 12 intake to head bolts,....

 

[Stamey]

OK. I knew I have a Vortec engine, and from your description, I guess the Mercruiser refers to the Vortec engine as Gen+. Was not aware of that.
Thanks.

Chris