My 5.0 to 5.7 swap log

[sub2010ss]

I guess I've built and broke in a dozen or so flat tapper motors but didn't follow that detailed of break in procedure.

I've been sitting here twiddling my thumbs waiting for my engine and parts. Went with Michigan motorz on eBay for the intake and carb. Got edelbrock for both. Everything should be here by Tuesday of next week. I'm not a patient man.

 

[jarruiz13]

I just bought a boat a month ago a 1980 Holiday cruiser 22 it has a mercruiser 228, for the first time of its arrival and having good weather. Realized that the gentleman was off when he stated it was the riser that was leaking. In the end was starboard side of the engine has a major crack that water leaks out. So let me know how that company has treated you on that rebuild engine. Another question as you went with a 350 does that mean that is a 350 newer version rebuild or the same old components? As you know that some company such as " http://www.usengine.us/mercruiser.html" state they have more hp and are much economic? Is that the same concept with the company you purchase your block off?

 

[sub2010ss]

I will definitely give my opinions of all of the companies I've dealt with when this is all said and done. Both my 350 and the 305 are 8 bolt intake vortec engines. 96 and newer I believe. The rebuild has all new components. Rapido marine doesn't claim performance or efficiency upgrades. They did come to me with really good reviews and a recommendation from a friend. Plus the price was right, especially not having a core. I'm expecting to get the engine Monday and will keep this up to speed as I go thru the installation.

 

[sub2010ss]

I will definitely give my opinions of all of the companies I've dealt with when this is all said and done. Both my 350 and the 305 are 8 bolt intake vortec engines. 96 and newer I believe. The rebuild has all new components. Rapido marine doesn't claim performance or efficiency upgrades. They did come to me with really good reviews and a recommendation from a friend. Plus the price was right, especially not having a core. I'm expecting to get the engine Monday and will keep this up to speed as I go thru the installation.

 

[NHGuy]

Jarruiz13, that usengine outfit has been called out for BS before. Steer clear.
Also you will be better to start a thread of your own. No hijacking bud!

 

[sub2010ss]

Yeah I was wondering about their claims myself. Kinda crazy to claim 25% more efficiency without changing major design or components.

 

[jarruiz13]

Ok thank you for that information. Keep us updated on your project.

 

[sub2010ss]

Some of the major parts are starting to show up. I received the manifolds and risers, intake and carb. Still waiting on the motor.I called the shipping company today and should get a call tomorrow to schedule the delivery.

So heres my question, this manifold looks very pretty. What do you recommend to keep it looking that way? I know most of the cast iron ones get painted black and I would hate to do that. Can I clear coat it? Or should I just leave it as is?

 

[alldodge]

Some of the major parts are starting to show up. I received the manifolds and risers, intake and carb. Still waiting on the motor.I called the shipping company today and should get a call tomorrow to schedule the delivery.

So heres my question, this manifold looks very pretty. What do you recommend to keep it looking that way? I know most of the cast iron ones get painted black and I would hate to do that. Can I clear coat it? Or should I just leave it as is?

Your not in salt water area so just leave it as-is. The aluminum in the intake and carb will be just fine IMO.

 

[sub2010ss]

Definitely no salt water here in Iowa.

 

[Bondo]

Your not in salt water area so just leave it as-is. The aluminum in the intake and carb will be just fine IMO.

Ayuh,.... Agreed,..... That's a Nice manifold,... Bronze inserts for the brine,....

 

[sub2010ss]

Thanks Bondo. Your recommendation and she sure is pretty.

 

[sub2010ss]

Got the manifolds ready to go. I figure I'll bolt the manifolds to the heads and drop it in the boat. Then after its in put the risers and elbows on.

 

[Hai Nhi]

Great details. I'm following your post really closely now since I'll be doing the same thing pretty soon to my soon-to-be-new-to-me boat .

 

[sub2010ss]

Thanks! I really wasn't sure how much detail to add, but I figure anyone willing to take on a job like this probably has some basic understanding of mechanics. I am enjoying it a lot!!

 

[sub2010ss]

Just a quick update on some of the parts I've been getting in.

So I ordered new exhaust manifolds and risers from Performance Product Technologies (perfprotech.com). The manifolds are made by HGE. The boxes were pretty beat up when they arrived, and this resulted in some of the components gone missing. I sent an email this morning, about 7am and just received a phone call (11am) to clarify and send out the missing components. That's a huge deal these days it seems.

Anyways, I will do a more detailed update on all of the products and vendors I worked with at the end.

 

[sub2010ss]

Finally, got a delivery date scheduled for the long block tomorrow morning. This shipping quote I got said 3-5 days. Pending delivery tomorrow it was 8 days. Apparently it sat at the shop for 2 days without moving? Not sure how accurate the tracking is on that but either way. Hears hoping it's shows up on time and in good condition.

 

[sub2010ss]

OK, so tonight I was making some final preps to get everything put together tomorrow when the engine arrives. One thing I've been meaning to do is replace the water pump in the outdrive. So i take it apart and this is what I find.





So obviously this thing is sandy and dirty. Is this normal? What should I be looking for on the upper and lower unit which would indicate a significant problem?

When I bought the boat, I checked the lube, checked the prop only spun in the direction of the gear selected. When I brought it home I drained the lube and it looked clean, a few metal shavings on the magnet.

The shaft coming up from the lower unit was caked with crud, the shaft has some minor growing near the spline, and the pump housing has some minor grooving. Also the seal at the water pump is rotted and the oil passage seal is toast too. Last thing, the front threaded hole is stripped.

 

[alldodge]

OK, so tonight I was making some final preps to get everything put together tomorrow when the engine arrives. One thing I've been meaning to do is replace the water pump in the outdrive. So i take it apart and this is what I find.

So obviously this thing is sandy and dirty. Is this normal?

This isn't normal but not uncommon for boats in shallow sandy bottom waters

What should I be looking for on the upper and lower unit which would indicate a significant problem?


When I bought the boat, I checked the lube, checked the prop only spun in the direction of the gear selected. When I brought it home I drained the lube and it looked clean, a few metal shavings on the magnet.

The upper should be fine since you found only found only a few metal shavings. If you want to do additional checks pull the top cap off and see if all looks good.

The shaft coming up from the lower unit was caked with crud, the shaft has some minor growing near the spline, and the pump housing has some minor grooving. Also the seal at the water pump is rotted and the oil passage seal is toast too. Last thing, the front threaded hole is stripped.

Clean it all out, then flush it, then replace the pump housing and any wear plates showing signs of wear. Replace the seals, and pick up a helicoil kit for the front hole

 

[sub2010ss]

Excelent! That's exactly what my plan was. I also ordered a pump casing with every seal I could find.