Weber AFB Issues

DA080682

Recruit
Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
2
Hello,

I have what is the typical problem of cold starts and then ''warm" restarts (20+ minutes later). I have begun to dig into the choke operation and found that when the engine is cold (86 degree ambient) the choke is open about 3/16'' to 1/4." I began looking at the stove coil and linkage. I believe the coil is bad and not pulling the choke closed all the way. I have verified that all the linkage is free and not being obstructed. My dilemma starts with looking for a new stove coil. All the parts manual show part # 66205, but when I look at pictures of the part it is backwards from what I currently have. The linkage loop on the coil is on rear of the unit while the new ones are on the front. Also, the linkage pictures show different linkage from the coil to the lever. Have you encountered this? To top it off, these parts are only available as New Old Stock and are VERY expensive.

With all the trouble and cost in trying to replace what I have I have looked at converting to electric choke and came across the edelbrock 1478 kit. Do you know if this kit can be used to do the conversion, or do you know of another way to convert to electric choke?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...a/instructions

On to the hard warm re-start. Do you have a fix yet for this or know of a way to at least minimize it?

Another thing I have done to aid in cold starts after sitting for a day or to is wire a momentary switch into the oil pressure switch circuit. I call this the prime switch. With the key on and the switch closed, the fuel pump will run. I run it for about 30 seconds before cranking and this dramatically reduces the amount of cranking needed to start.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,754
Hello,

I have what is the typical problem of cold starts and then ''warm" restarts (20+ minutes later). I have begun to dig into the choke operation and found that when the engine is cold (86 degree ambient) the choke is open about 3/16'' to 1/4." I began looking at the stove coil and linkage. I believe the coil is bad and not pulling the choke closed all the way. I have verified that all the linkage is free and not being obstructed. My dilemma starts with looking for a new stove coil. All the parts manual show part # 66205, but when I look at pictures of the part it is backwards from what I currently have. The linkage loop on the coil is on rear of the unit while the new ones are on the front. Also, the linkage pictures show different linkage from the coil to the lever. Have you encountered this? To top it off, these parts are only available as New Old Stock and are VERY expensive.

With all the trouble and cost in trying to replace what I have I have looked at converting to electric choke and came across the edelbrock 1478 kit. Do you know if this kit can be used to do the conversion, or do you know of another way to convert to electric choke?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...a/instructions

On to the hard warm re-start. Do you have a fix yet for this or know of a way to at least minimize it?

Another thing I have done to aid in cold starts after sitting for a day or to is wire a momentary switch into the oil pressure switch circuit. I call this the prime switch. With the key on and the switch closed, the fuel pump will run. I run it for about 30 seconds before cranking and this dramatically reduces the amount of cranking needed to start.

:welcome: to iboats

Need to look further into your question but the choke plate should be all the way closed when cold, no opening left. To adjust the stove coil:
Remove stove coil rod from choke plate
Hold the choke plate completely closed with figure (should take very little pressure)
Push choke rod down until it bottoms.
Top edge of choke rod must be even with hole in choke plate lever,
If even install stove choke rod

Once started the choke pull off should open the plate 1/8 inch with diaphragm fully depressed
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,525
Hello,

I have what is the typical problem of cold starts and then ''warm" restarts (20+ minutes later). I have begun to dig into the choke operation and found that when the engine is cold (86 degree ambient) the choke is open about 3/16'' to 1/4." I began looking at the stove coil and linkage. I believe the coil is bad and not pulling the choke closed all the way. I have verified that all the linkage is free and not being obstructed. My dilemma starts with looking for a new stove coil. All the parts manual show part # 66205, but when I look at pictures of the part it is backwards from what I currently have. The linkage loop on the coil is on rear of the unit while the new ones are on the front. Also, the linkage pictures show different linkage from the coil to the lever. Have you encountered this? To top it off, these parts are only available as New Old Stock and are VERY expensive.

With all the trouble and cost in trying to replace what I have I have looked at converting to electric choke and came across the edelbrock 1478 kit. Do you know if this kit can be used to do the conversion, or do you know of another way to convert to electric choke?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...a/instructions

On to the hard warm re-start. Do you have a fix yet for this or know of a way to at least minimize it?

Another thing I have done to aid in cold starts after sitting for a day or to is wire a momentary switch into the oil pressure switch circuit. I call this the prime switch. With the key on and the switch closed, the fuel pump will run. I run it for about 30 seconds before cranking and this dramatically reduces the amount of cranking needed to start.

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,.... I doubt there's anything wrong with yer choke,....

Chokin' the motor don't help, when there's no gas in the carb,....

Yer fuel pump power by-pass is the easiest band-aid,....

The Webers leak, internally,....

Yer by-pass fills the carb bowls, pumpin' the throttle to Wot a couple times primes the carb, 'n sets the choke,...
Pullin' back, 1/4 to 1/2 way on the throttle, 'n hit the key,...
As Soon as it Fires, pull back on the throttle to a hi-idle, say 1,000 rpms,.....

For warm starts, Go to Wot, 'n hit the key, when it fires, pull back the throttle,...
Due to it's leaks, it's flooded, goin' to Wot clears the flood condition,....

'n,,.... Btw,.... Edlebrock parts fit, Exactly to the Merc Weber carbs,...... ;)
 
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