A few more pressure testing questions...

sgtnoah

Cadet
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Messages
21
First of all, I hope that everybody has a wonderful Thanksgiving. We all have a shared hobby, and that is one of many things that we all can be thankful for!

Regarding Alpha One Gen II drive leak testing using air pressure, I searched the forum and used the advice to make a pressure testing rig to test my lower unit after changing the water pump. I am looking 3 psi every hour and am contemplating further investigation. Have used soapy water on everything visible from the outside: drain plug, prop shaft, input shaft, all joints on pressure testing rig, and external shift shaft. When I replaced the water pump, I replaced the lower seal / plastic cone assembly. Had no water intrusion issues before replacing the pump.

My inclination is to leave it as is, but I wanted to run my logic for doing so by you all (possibly lazy man's logic!).
- Air is much thinner than oil, a very small air leak does not necessarily mean there will be an oil leak.
- There will never be anything approaching 15 psi, or appreciable vacuum on this lower unit due to the drive lube monitor container equalizing the pressure.
- I am a heavy equipment mechanic by trade and when rebuilding gearboxes, the manufacturers usually specify a very small amount of pressure lost in an hour to be acceptable.

Just curious if this logic is solid, or if it's take apart time again, and if so, where might the leak be? I hate to go shotgun approach and just start replacing seals, but do not know how to find the culprit once the drive is apart and pressure testing is no longer possible.

Thank you in advance,
Pete
 

UncleWillie

Captain
Joined
Oct 18, 2011
Messages
3,995
You are leaking. I have had the drive hold 10 psi for a week with zero loss.

There are only 8 places (I think) it can leak.

1. At the Drive shaft seal at the water pump.
2. At the Drive shaft seal in the upper housing.
3. At the Little O-Ring that connects the oil passage between the upper and lower. (Most Common!)
4. At the input Drive Shaft seal near the U-Joints.
5. At the Prop Drive Shaft seal.
6. At the Valve that connects to the passage to the Monitor bottle.
7-8. At the Fill and Vent Plugs. (Includes your Pressure test setup.)

4-8 should be easy to soap test and see. Rule these out first.
1,2 and 3 are not externally visible.

Pressurize the drive to ~10-15 psi and listen closely in the prop hub. Internal leaks?

Pour some soapy water down the water hole near the U-Joints to wet the water pump.
Flip the drive upside down and pour some more soapy water in the Prop hub to wet the upper Shaft seal.
Flip the drive right-side up to drain the soapy water. Wait a few minutes.
Relieve pressure, then quickly split the Upper and Lower.
Look for a mass of soap bubbles indicating which seal is leaking.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
You missed the most common leak point, shift shaft seal.


To test once the drive is split, just need to cover or plug the oil feed passage hole. Once you do that you can pressurize either half on its own.

Chris....
 

ktbarrentine

Lieutenant
Joined
Dec 12, 2011
Messages
1,296
I always test the two halves of my pre-genII alpha-1 drive before reassembling, and then again after reassembling. I did not think you could test the upper half of a genII drive by itself without plugging both the oil passage and the vertical drive shaft penetration.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
...I did not think you could test the upper half of a genII drive by itself without plugging both the oil passage and the vertical drive shaft penetration.

Your thinking is correct. And you are quite right about the opening of the bottom of the drive shaft housing. Forgot about that :doh: I've always been able to find where ever the leak is with the drive assembled... Never need to pressure test the top on it's own.

Chris...
 
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