1997 Mercruiser 5.7 Overheat / Coolant Coverflow Issue

jackalu

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Oct 31, 2014
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23
Hi Guys.

New member to the forum here, struggling with an ongoing issue that I am hopefully someone may be able to shed some light on.

When I am running my engine at temperature and under load (say 3 or 4 thousand RPM), then I come off of plane I have a situation where coolant overflows from my heat exchanger and into my reservoir. This I would think would be normal as pressure builds up in the engine and cooling system, however, the issue is that the engine continually dumps the coolant into the reservoir until it is full, then eventually the reservoir exits coolant through it's overflow into the bilge. This process continues for approximately an hour until coolant has completely exited the engine and heat exchanger, resulting in an eventual overheating situation. Adding more coolant/water to the top of the radiator stops the overheating, however, it is only temporary until the pressure is built back up and the system exits the new coolant to the reservoir. Once the engine cools, coolant never seems to return to the heat exchanger either, which I find perplexing.

Things to note:

- The engine seems to run very well once warm, however, does run a bit rough at cold start requiring me to keep the RPM at 1k to keep running. Slight smoke is present from the exhaust at cold start (smells rich though not sweet to me).
- The engine is a pretty newly rebuilt motor from a machine shop (a year old), so I would be surprised if the head gasket was going, although symptoms I realize might suggest this. With that said, the new engine may have been running slightly hotter then normal operating temperatures due to exhaust flappers having deteriorated and sitting in the exit of the exhaust which was found when replacing the impeller.
- Which leads me to mentioning that I have replaced the impeller in the Alpha one leg and can confirm that the raw water flow is strong.
- With the engine cold, I have pressurized the cooling system and it holds pressure without any issues.
- While the engine is overflowing coolant I do not have overheating, only once the coolant has exited the engine and heat exchanger does it start to overheat.
- The rad cap was replaced and appears to be sealing well.

I purchased a combustion tester from the auto parts store (the type which you connect to your rad/heat exchanger and it looks for exhaust gasses in your coolant) ie: http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm. I tried to test this yesterday, however, it asks that you connect the other end of the tester to a vacuum hose so that it can pull the fumes from the coolant and I don't believe that this engine has vacuum lines? Perhaps I am wrong is there vacuum lines? If so where?! Assuming I am right, any other suggestions in terms of how I could do the test? Maybe bring a hoover down and rig it up to it to create vacuum? Obviously I am trying to determine if there is a head gasket issue here.

Outside of exhaust fumes pressurizing the coolant (bad head gasket), what else could be causing this problem? I have not removed the heat exchanger, and some people have suggested that the heat exchanger could be faulty and pressurizing the system some how? Others have suggested that mercruiser put out a bulletin which suggested the impeller in the alpha one did not supply a strong enough flow of raw water and that they recommended adding a belt driven raw water pump as well?- This would make sense if it was a boil over issue, but it seems like a pressure issue to me?!

Any other ideas as to what it could be would be greatly appreciated. I am wits end here and I don't know what else to consider...

Thanks all.
 

alldodge

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Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,701
Hi Guys.

New member to the forum here, struggling with an ongoing issue that I am hopefully someone may be able to shed some light on.

When I am running my engine at temperature and under load (say 3 or 4 thousand RPM), then I come off of plane I have a situation where coolant overflows from my heat exchanger and into my reservoir. This I would think would be normal as pressure builds up in the engine and cooling system, however, the issue is that the engine continually dumps the coolant into the reservoir until it is full, then eventually the reservoir exits coolant through it's overflow into the bilge. This process continues for approximately an hour until coolant has completely exited the engine and heat exchanger, resulting in an eventual overheating situation. Adding more coolant/water to the top of the radiator stops the overheating, however, it is only temporary until the pressure is built back up and the system exits the new coolant to the reservoir. Once the engine cools, coolant never seems to return to the heat exchanger either, which I find perplexing.

Things to note:

- The engine seems to run very well once warm, however, does run a bit rough at cold start requiring me to keep the RPM at 1k to keep running. Slight smoke is present from the exhaust at cold start (smells rich though not sweet to me).
- The engine is a pretty newly rebuilt motor from a machine shop (a year old), so I would be surprised if the head gasket was going, although symptoms I realize might suggest this. With that said, the new engine may have been running slightly hotter then normal operating temperatures due to exhaust flappers having deteriorated and sitting in the exit of the exhaust which was found when replacing the impeller.
- Which leads me to mentioning that I have replaced the impeller in the Alpha one leg and can confirm that the raw water flow is strong.
- With the engine cold, I have pressurized the cooling system and it holds pressure without any issues.
- While the engine is overflowing coolant I do not have overheating, only once the coolant has exited the engine and heat exchanger does it start to overheat.
- The rad cap was replaced and appears to be sealing well.

I purchased a combustion tester from the auto parts store (the type which you connect to your rad/heat exchanger and it looks for exhaust gasses in your coolant) ie: http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm. I tried to test this yesterday, however, it asks that you connect the other end of the tester to a vacuum hose so that it can pull the fumes from the coolant and I don't believe that this engine has vacuum lines? Perhaps I am wrong is there vacuum lines? If so where?! Assuming I am right, any other suggestions in terms of how I could do the test? Maybe bring a hoover down and rig it up to it to create vacuum? Obviously I am trying to determine if there is a head gasket issue here.

Outside of exhaust fumes pressurizing the coolant (bad head gasket), what else could be causing this problem? I have not removed the heat exchanger, and some people have suggested that the heat exchanger could be faulty and pressurizing the system some how? Others have suggested that mercruiser put out a bulletin which suggested the impeller in the alpha one did not supply a strong enough flow of raw water and that they recommended adding a belt driven raw water pump as well?- This would make sense if it was a boil over issue, but it seems like a pressure issue to me?!

Any other ideas as to what it could be would be greatly appreciated. I am wits end here and I don't know what else to consider...

Thanks all.

:welcome: to iboats

What is your engine serial number?
When the engine was rebuilt was the engine circulating water pump replaced?
How old are the exhaust manifolds?
Is this a salt water boat?
 

jackalu

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Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Messages
23
Thanks for your response alldodge:

- not sure on the engine serial number will have to check, it is a thunderbolt ignition style 5.7 1997
- engine was rebuilt about a year ago, not positive that the circulation pump was done. I read a long winded forum of a person with a similar problem on a mercruiser and it ended up being that the circulation pump was somehow introducing air to the system? Possibility here?
- unsure how old the exhaust manifolds are
- unsure on full life of boat, I believe both, been using it in salt water the last few seasons but it has a closed cooling system.

I really think that this is something to do with air being introduced to the system. A non working circulation pump would cause a boil over scenario which I don't think it happening here. The coolant rushing to the overflow is actually not boiling. That said, the circulation pump could perhaps be introducing air into the system?

Let me know your thoughts, thanks guys!
 

Grub54891

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Jun 17, 2012
Messages
5,911
I'd be doing a leak down test on the cylinders,along with compression tests. Something is pressureizing the systym,to me it would be the cylinders,through a cracked water jacket or bad gasket. Its not unusual to have a one way leak through a headgasket or a crack someplace.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
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Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,111
If your running more than 170, your overheating plus slowing down you have heat soak.
the heat exchanger needs a engine mounted pump, not a outdrive impeller
 

alldodge

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Agree with Grub try a compression test. Oil look OK?
 

jackalu

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Oct 31, 2014
Messages
23
Thanks for your responses guys, I will try and get a leak down and compression test done soon.

In the meantime, I was down at the boat today and was able to complete a combustion test (block test) which was negative (no change in color in the chemical). This tells me that there isn't any exhaust in the coolant which of course is a good thing and leads me to believe that a head gasket probably isn't the root of the issue. I know for sure that the tool was working, because breathing air into it caused it to change color.

My plan of attack is the following (open to your thoughts):

- do compression and leak down test to confirm no issues on that end
- remove heat exchanger and take for cleaning and testing
- at the same time heat exchanger is out, do thermostat (have to assume it was done when engine was thrown in, but just to be sure)
- add new coolant and purge system of any air\

Any other thoughts?

Cheers Guys.
 

jackalu

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Oct 31, 2014
Messages
23
also:

alldodge: yes, oil looks totally fine
bt doctor: I realize that there is a circulation pump on the engine for the coolant side. People have suggested that the boat should have an extra raw water pump added on the engine side (in addition to the impeller and pump in the leg itself).

Thanks guys!
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,111
No, cut the hose so the impeller in the drive cools the drive and add the engine mounted sea water pump to supply the correct amount of water to the heat exchanger. The impeller cant deliver the amount of water needed to cool the A/F in the heat exchanger and you run hot.
 

jackalu

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Oct 31, 2014
Messages
23
bt doctur: excuse my ignorance; so you are suggesting that I add an additional engine mounted sea water pump? It seems that there is good flow running from the leg to the heat exchanger, why would this be necessary? Is there a kit that I should be buying to allow this? A little more explanation would be greatly appreciated if you don't mind good sir!

You are not the first person who has made this suggestion, is this a known issue?
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
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Aug 29, 2004
Messages
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overheating when slowed down is a sign of heat soak. the engine still contains the heat from the high speed run.
when you slow down the coolant flow slows down also. Coolant circulates thru the heat exchanger but is not cooled sufficiently by the raw water flow.
You think you have a good flow but you must realize the flow you do see is coming thru a 1/2 inch pipe vs. coming out of a pump with a 1 1/8 dia, hose
something along these lines http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-MERCRUI...765292&vxp=mtr
most if not all of the inboards run this style of pump ,for both raw and fresh water cooled motors
 
Last edited:

alldodge

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The engine does fine on plane and starts overheating when slowing down. Coolant doesn't start filling up the over flow bottle until it does slow down. This tells me it's heat soak from lack of water flow through the heat exchanger as BtDoc mentioned. Changing the water pump could help but the engine use to do fine prior to the overheating. If the overflow bottle filled up when on plane I would think it could be head gasket or the like. I'm backing away from compression test and looking at the cooling system. Items as thermostat and housing, exhaust manifolds, heat exchanger, power steering cooler and hoses. Were any new fittings added to the hoses and there routing?
 

jackalu

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Oct 31, 2014
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interesting, thanks guys. I will probably still get the compression and leak down test completed for peace of mind and so that I can completely set aside any concern of head gasket or engine issues. Although I agree, it is starting to look more and more that it isn't a head gasket, especially after having completed the combustion (block) test.

Alldodge: that is a lot of components, yikes! Any suggestions on how to go about tackling this stuff? I can take the heat exchanger to be cleaned and pressure tested locally for about $100, and while I have it off, I may as well do the thermostat. As for the housing, how would I diagnose a bad thermostat housing? Also any tips on diagnosing things like exhaust manifolds, and the rest of the components?

bt doctor: I would consider adding a engine mounted raw water pump, that seems cheap enough that it probably makes sense. Where does this install on my engine? Is it already set up for it? What is currently in its place? Again, sorry for my ignorance on this topic.

You guys have been a huge help, much appreciated!
 

jackalu

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also, thinking out loud here, but would it not make sense that there is an air leak somewhere (perhaps heat exchanger) which is resulting in air being pulled in from somewhere other then the coolant reservoir as the engine cools and the coolant contracts? Normally if there was no leaks then the coolant would pull back into the HE from the reservoir, but if there is a leak then the air would enter through the path of least resistance?

This would account for the coolant level not changing when engine cools (in the reservoir).

Thoughts?!
 

alldodge

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also, thinking out loud here, but would it not make sense that there is an air leak somewhere (perhaps heat exchanger) which is resulting in air being pulled in from somewhere other then the coolant reservoir as the engine cools and the coolant contracts? Normally if there was no leaks then the coolant would pull back into the HE from the reservoir, but if there is a leak then the air would enter through the path of least resistance?

This would account for the coolant level not changing when engine cools (in the reservoir).

Thoughts?!

Your coolant systems is pressurized and air coming in is not an option with what you have currently conveyed in this thread. Your coolant appears to be boiling and creating air bubbles which displaces the coolant due to expansion. One thing which does not add up is why when the engine cools the coolant is not drawn back in via a vacuum of air bubble reduction.

Need more info
 

hookemdano

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Jul 21, 2009
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I have a 1997 5.7 with a full closed system/ heat exchanger...I do not have that extra engine mounted sea water pump, I only have the original water pump in the Alpha, mine runs 175 all day long...just saying.....I have no idea what your problem is...but doubt it needs that engine mounted water pump, unless your water temps are much warmer than mine? we were running in 80+ this season
 

thumpar

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Jun 21, 2007
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The engine driven pump is mounted on the lower starboard side of the engine. It is nice not to have to split the drive to change the impeller.
 

jackalu

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Oct 31, 2014
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I tend to agree, while it would be nice to have the engine mounted secondary sea water pump I don't know that this is the route of the issue. Heat exchanger and thermostat housing come out for pressure testing and inspection tomorrow afternoon, will update you guys on what the outcome is.
 
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