Reverse locking problem

OH. DON

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Oct 13, 2014
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I have a 1967 Starcraft pre alpha believed to be a 120 type 1 (serial nbr range: 2062141 thru 2791956). When I shift in reverse gear, the prop comes out of the water. I have a manual and it talks about a reverse locking valve in the hydraulic trim system, however mine is not equiped with this reverse locking valve. I was told that I have a reverse locking pin located around the shifting shaft on the outdrive, I am unable to locate this either. I am at a roadblock, looking to see if anyone has any suggestions.
 

Bt Doctur

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Aug 29, 2004
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19,093
I have that style of shift lockout available new ,does it look similar to these
UntitledRL_zpsf0c2e851.jpg
 

OH. DON

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Oct 13, 2014
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No. I believe that the one originally on the drive is the one you have pictured, but someone switched out the drive unit. They switched out the drive for one that works in conjunction with the hydraulic trim system, but they did not put the hydraulic locking valve on it or change the cylindars. Currently it has a single line hydraulic system. I tried to upload a photo, but was unable. Am I able to put the shift lockout that you have available on the drive that I have?
 

Bt Doctur

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you`ll need to post detailed pics of what you have already, use photobucket.com. its free
 

OH. DON

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Oct 13, 2014
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Would I just be better off to switch to the hydraulic reverse locking system?

Currently have one line off the hydraulic pump and it T's off right below the gimble bearing and one line goes to each cylindar. Would you have to convert to two lines in order to put the locking valve in or does the two line cylindars just give you the full tilt? or is it basically you need two lines off the hydraulic pump - one for cylindars and one for locking valve?
 

Bt Doctur

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Your outdrive has been updated, you don't have that type of locking system. you may have to get a bit creative and use a late model system
 

Bondo

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Would I just be better off to switch to the hydraulic reverse locking system?

Currently have one line off the hydraulic pump and it T's off right below the gimble bearing and one line goes to each cylindar. Would you have to convert to two lines in order to put the locking valve in or does the two line cylindars just give you the full tilt? or is it basically you need two lines off the hydraulic pump - one for cylindars and one for locking valve?

Ayuh,.... Ya might be able to plumb in a new style trim pump, which has it's own reverse lock built in,....
 

OH. DON

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Oct 13, 2014
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yea this boat is really becoming a great big pain in my ass.one thig after another.SO I GOT CREATIVE LIKE THE BT. DC. SAID I TOOK A IOND 3/8 DRILL BIT AND DRILLED I HOLE AND PINED THE DRV UNIT WITH A 3/8 WOOD DAIL ROD.
 

OH. DON

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Oct 13, 2014
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I TOOK THE BOAT OUT AFTER REPLACING THE GIMBLE BEARING AND ALL THE BELLOWS SHIFT CABLE SEALS REBIULT CARB REPLACED WATER PUMP IN LOWER UNIT HYDR. PUMP N MOTOR SILINOIDE FUEL GAUGE . OIL PRESS GAUGE NEW INTER. AND WOOD . PINNED DRV. UNIT THIS THING IS RUNNING GREAT NOW I NEED A VALVE COVER GASKET. DOES IT EVER STOP.O YEA I REHOOKED THE SHIFT INTERRUPER BACK AFTER SOMEONE HAD DICONNETED IT. YES ITS A PAIN TO DEAL WITH THE PIN BUT IT WORKS AND IT WAS CHEAP. UNTIL
 

OH. DON

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how would you know if you was getting any water in your u joint bellows. o yea the boat seems to pull to the rt when i let go of the wheel at higher speed not so bad in low does this mean out of aliment.
 

ziggy

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Jun 30, 2004
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how would you know if you was getting any water in your u joint bellows.
look for splits from the inside and outside of the drive shaft bellow themsleves, water in the bellows usually ends up with rusty ujoints, a rust gimble brg and feels anything other than smooth when turned, leaking gear lub into the bellows caused by water in the bellows that shouldn't be there, leading to water intrusion into the drive, which then rusts the area on the input shaft where the seal rides at. water observed in the bellows when drive is removed.
o yea the boat seems to pull to the rt when i let go of the wheel at higher speed not so bad in low does this mean out of aliment.
no, it means ya need to adj. the trim tab that's at the bottom back of the anti ventilation plate. adj. the tab the direction thats easy to turn to. so if its easy to steer starboard, adj. tab to starboard. this tab is adj. for one load, one speed, one trim setting. anything other than these and the boat will pull some.
 
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OH. DON

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Oct 13, 2014
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ok thanks i,ll try that. i was asking about the ujoint bellows because i just changed mine and was just wandering if i done a good job. it wasnt easy but i feel pretty good about it,. . i took it back out again today it,s doing great, finally some reconition for all my hard work..
 

ziggy

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maybe this'll help.

it's kinda the flat plate that seperates the upper from the lower. it's the flat plate at the bottom of the upper part of the drive. ya adj. the trim tab through a hole in the upper. a hex key is used to loosen the trim tab. the trim tab is usually a sacrificial anode. a zinc. it's a fin. they come in different dimensions. short, long, offset aft and short and a blank plate. if it's a blank plate it's for boat's that have power steering.
 
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OH. DON

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ok thanks i will give it a look see, also my speed oddomiter is not working rt , it works part time butt its not rt. when it does wk. any sugustoins.
 

ziggy

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also my speed oddomiter is not working rt , it works part time butt its not rt. when it does wk. any sugustoins.
if it's a pitot tube type system, look for mud and gunk plugging it up. ream it out, compressed air the clog out, however. don't know about how to repair the speedo if it's faulty. imho, scrap the speedo for some other useful gauge. my boat came w/o a speedo, a tach only. works good. since i was curious about my speed, a gps works great for a precise reading of speed. an analog speedo, pitot fed will give ya an idea of how fast, but they can be off pretty bad.
i know its no power steering havnt been able to look at unit yet
adg. you trim tab. if ya ain't got one, get one. my mc-1 drive from 75 has the long fin. it does do work and adjustments do make a difference in how it steers. fwiw, mine sits a little to starboard. it's set for no hands steering at 2500 rpm (happens to be 25 mph, gps), trim up one bar on my gauge, normal load of me and the ol'lady and a cooler full of pop, about 3/4 tank of fuel (12.5 gal of fuel, 3/4 tank). at this speed i steer straight and can let go of the wheel. any other speed, and it pulls a little one direction or the other.
 
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