Ok... You seem fixated on the ignition system, so here's how it works. The system consists of 4 main parts. The sensor in the distributor, the amplifier (mounted to the exhaust elbow in your case), the coil and the HT distribution system (dissy cap, leads, plugs)....
The amplifier is powered by the 12 volts when you turn the key to ON. When the key is OFF, the amplifier (and the entire ignition system) are completely un-powered. The module supplies a 12v line to the sensor (through the white/red wire) and the sensor is the signal to the amplifier as to when the rotor window goes past it. When the window goes past the sensor the white/green wire drops from 5v to ground. The sensor, as you have already found out, also needs a ground. That's all the sensor does, just flip the white/green between 5v and ground. It has nothing to do with the timing, apart from the initial timing you set with a timing light at idle revs. And that's done by rotating the distributor, not moving the sensor itself.
The amplifier takes the sensor signal (white/green) and based on the frequency of that signal, will apply an advance, or not. The amount of advance is based on the engine speed and the programmed curve in the amplifier ROM. If the engine is at cranking speed the ignition is advanced slightly, around 6 degrees. Once the engine is idling and up to about 1000rpm, the advance is effectively 0 from the initial timing setting. Once the engine reaches around 1000rpm, then the curve is applied, and the timing will be advanced. So, up until the engine reach around 1000rpm NO ADVANCE IS APPLIED.... If you don't have engine speed increase (up to around 1000rpm), it's NOT an ignition system problem. It may be the initial timing is wrong, or the carb is not set right, or you have a vacuum leak... But it is not the amplifier or sensor.
There are several different amplifiers, depending on the engine. The V8s have anything from 20 to 24 degrees of advance, depending on the model, and the V6s only have one, it advances 14 degrees. You need to make sure you have the right module for the engine you're working on. For the 200hp V8 it should have either 'V8-22' or 'V8-24' depending on whether you have an early model engine or a later model (distinguishable from the style of rocker cover). All the sensors are the same, both for the V8 and V6 and through time. They all do the same job... I've seen many people ripping hair from head over this sort of problem, and 99% of the time, it's something silly, like the wrong rotor (I have seen someone put a V6 rotor in a V8 engine and wonder why it didn't run right)... I have had many people swear black and blue that the plug leads are on on the right order, only to find they are not. And yes, they also checked them 4 times. Just saying....
As already mentioned, and I also noticed it, you make no mention of setting the initial engine timing with a timing light...
For your engine the initial advance should be 8°BTDC. And you really do need to set it with a timing light. Turning the distributor "about 10-15 degrees" just doesn't cut it.
Chris.......