Mercruiser outdrive tilt

[brushhippie]

Just got this 73 Seacraft Seafari and the outdrive is tilted up all the way and I cant get it to lower...I just put a battery in it and it runs the pump if I push the down button but doesnt lower...it wont do anything if you push up...help!...Thanks

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,...... Have a fat friend jump up, 'n down on it, while yer pushin' the down button,.....

 

[brushhippie]

Now..that is an idee...I do have the solenoid starter switch chingus...guess I could hang on it and hit the switch...there might be enough wire......might be worth a try.....I assume (which always gets me in trouble) that there is not limit switch to stop the up side from working...indicating yet another problem. I thought this was gonna be the boat that was gonna change everything.....cheap fixes....great fuel mileage...(5 mpg I was promised)..what?....NO I didnt give too much...

 

[Bondo]

Now..that is an idee...I do have the solenoid starter switch chingus...guess I could hang on it and hit the switch...there might be enough wire......might be worth a try.....I assume (which always gets me in trouble) that there is not limit switch to stop the up side from working...indicating yet another problem. I thought this was gonna be the boat that was gonna change everything.....cheap fixes....great fuel mileage...(5 mpg I was promised)..what?....NO I didnt give too much...

Ayuh,..... At the top of this forum is Don'S Adults Only section, in there is Oceans of Great Info on yer motor, 'n drive,.....

The limit switch works on the up stroke, 'bout mid-way through it,...
I'd start at the pump, 'n Clean all the wirin' connections, 'n follow the circuits out,....

 

[brushhippie]

Ahhh there is a limit switch good!...it just seems odd to me the thing wont come down....normally even a bad tilt pump will let one down....well on an outboard anyway...this is my first I/O.

 

[Bondo]

Ahhh there is a limit switch good!...it just seems odd to me the thing wont come down....normally even a bad tilt pump will let one down....well on an outboard anyway...this is my first I/O.

Ayuh,.... There's basically 2 reasons drives get stuck in the Up position,....

#1 is corrosion in/ on the gland nut where the tube meets the rod, which binds it up,.... Especially saltwater boats,...

#2 is when runnin' it Up, it stalls out into Overload at the top,....
Those who don't tap the down button a time or two, to relieve the overloaded valvin', end up with a stuck valve in the pump,....

Jumpin' on the drive to get it movin', usually fixes #2, 'n allows ya to see/ fix the problem, if #1,....

 

[brushhippie]

Thank you very much for the advice...and the adults only is awesome! I am learning alot here. Cant wait to get the dang thing in the water and break something! I love the old boats but they do come with problems..as I have said many times...people dont get rid of perfect running boats.

 

[brushhippie]

No luck standing on the outdrive and running it down...there is bound to be a way to manually release the pressure to let it down...Im thinking the valve..idk...thought if I could bleed it down maybe running it up would break the valve loose. Im not finding the resevoir either.....gotta be somewhere..:lol:

 

[scatgo]

Remove the hydraulic line or lines going to the cylinders from the pump and be ready for a face full of oil if the drive drops.

 

[brushhippie]

Yea I was hop[ng to avoid that..

 

[Bondo]

No luck standing on the outdrive and running it down...there is bound to be a way to manually release the pressure to let it down...Im thinking the valve..idk...thought if I could bleed it down maybe running it up would break the valve loose. Im not finding the resevoir either.....gotta be somewhere..:lol:

Ayuh,.... A better description than '73 Starcraft would Help,..?? What motor,..?? Drive,..??

Look for a screw, or 2 screws near each other, probably near a corner on the pump,...

 

[brushhippie]

Sorry this is a 1973 20' Seacraft Seafari 140 Merc m outdrive. There are two flathead screws on the unit...I loosened them both and the unit didnt change...so is that saying the lift cylinders may be the problem? Those are the fill holes I am thinking...yes? The cylinders arent rusty....doesnt mean theyre not down below the compression ring i guess. Im not liking the idea of it having been up all the way for five years...units gotta leak from the carrier seal.....crappo.

 

[Bondo]

There are two flathead screws on the unit...

Ayuh,.... The Fill, 'n vent screws,.....

Loosen the lower 1, 'n remove the higher 1, fill the tank through the upper 1, til ya get oil at the lower 1,......

See if the trim lines will break free of the manifold, down under the drive, or rams,....
Use a tubin' wrench, 'n lotsa good penertratin' oil,.... Not WD-40,...

Is the controller in Forward, or Neutral,..??

Straighten the drive, 'n come-a-long it down to the wagon,...

 

[achris]

That's an early model MC1 drive. If it's been tied up like that for 5 years, you have a heap of work to do before you go anywhere near the water. First, replace the uni bellows, split the drive and do the water pump impeller as a minimum. Check the alignment, grease the unis and gimbal bearing, if their condition checks out ok, if not replace them. check all the shift mechanism and the shift cable and it's bellows... A full engine check, then oil and filters change, full tune-up including new plugs, points, condensor, rotor, plug leads and distributor cap. Thoroughly check the exhaust manifold and elbow (with a view to replacing the elbow).... Pull the fuel pump and carburettor off and clean the crud out of them and set the carb up according to the book (not a seloc or clymer :facepalm:, the proper genuine workshop manual). Also clean all the fuel lines, and drain the have the fuel tank steam cleaned (on the inside).... And we haven't even started on the electrical system yet....

Good luck.

Chris.......

 

[brushhippie]

Impeller is first on the list for sure...I thought I might run it before doing the bellows as they are in pretty good shape.....but you are most likely right I really should do that before hand. Fuel tank pump carb all in the works...electrical system seems to be fairly good...so far everything but the blower fan (which is full of mud dobber nests) points condensor and cap are all new....I believe the coil is bad...Im not getting any fire.

 

[achris]

99% says it is NOT the coil... Check for voltage at the coil +. If the points were new 5 years ago, then that are tarnished and need to be replaced. If you have no voltage at the coil +, check the resistance wire.