OVER HEATED 5L MERCRIUSER ON 19' CUDDY

mxguy132

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Nov 4, 2011
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21
Ok.....

I’ve owned this 2000 maxum 19' cuddy with a 5L merc I/O for 4 years now and its been a great boat and hasn’t given me a lot of grief . Replaced the wear and tear, winterized properly, and between me and the previous owner, it hasn’t seen a lot of the salt chuck. It's mainly been a fresh water boat.

A few weeks ago I took it in the ocean for the day and when we were heading back to the launch it was starting to get dark. I must of gone through a kelp bed and of course the one light that doesn’t work on my dash cluster is the temp and my alarm didn't go off when the boat started to over heat.

Not going to go into great detail, but I finally smelled my burning motor and shut it off right away and let it cool down. I started it up after the it cooled and it fired up no problem. I looked at the damage but nothing to visible without tools and a tear down.

Next day I got it back on the trailer and started to tear it apart. I knew right away that one of my remote cables wasn’t smoothly working and found that I melted the lower cable from the top of the motor down to the leg and melted both the rubber one way flappers in the manifold.

I replaced the impeller, removed all the rubber/metal bits in the leg and manifolds from the flappers and replaced them, replaced the lower cable.

I put the boat in the lake the next week for a test run and everything seemed ok till I went for a pull on my slalom ski. Getting out of the hole was a lot harder and slower then most times, so did a compression test and made sure all the plugs were firing.

So hears the break down and where I'm at at the moment and what I should do next,

5 out of the 8 cylinders read 130ish. The two middle cylinder on the starboard side (don't know the firing numbers) have a water leak but the oil still looks good and not milky at all. One of those two is 20 psi down but the other one still reads 130.
On the port side, the aft cylinder is really low, 50psi down and the one in front of it, is around 10 psi down from 130psi

The next thing I'm going to do is a air leak test and manifold tear down. The manifolds are stock and haven’t been replaced. I'm hoping I just have a manifold/riser leak and maybe I might of bent a valve(s) or broken spring(s) and not messed up the cylinder/piston/crank

When I talked to my local Merc dealer they said that it's rare to blow a head gasket when over heat. Its always manifold/ riser leaks and the valve train that gets damaged first when you over heat in older Merc motors.

I'm not really wanting to put a load of money into this boat as I was going to sell it next season and get a tournament/competition boat as we spend more time doing water sports and lake cruising, but I'll sure miss having a cuddy.

I guess what I'm looking for on here is not a quick fix but worst and best case scenarios. Not including time but what is this little oops going to cost me in parts and machine time.

Any input and info would be greatly appreciated!
 

GA_Boater

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Welcome aboard, mx. Give it time for members to see your post and please don't start another. This will bump it to the top of the M/C topic list. Also you can click your username and then click on "My Recent Posts" to see is you have any replies.

BTW - I think you popped the head gaskets because by the time you smelled the burning motor and melted rubber parts, she was awful hot.
 

mxguy132

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Nov 4, 2011
Messages
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Thanks Ga Boater,
It kept saying post wasn't uploading. Thats why I posted it a few time....
The Newbie
Mx guy
 

Scott Danforth

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something went awry with my reply to your first post.

with 130psi, that is low. cylinders lower than that are worse. I think you did a bit of damage with the overheat. if you are leaking water, you took out the head gasket.

run another compression test, document each cylinder. then do a leak down test for each cylinder. if you have leakdown to the crank case and not ajoining cylinders you have done a bit of damage to piston and rings. if you leak down to the water jacket, you have have a bad head gasket. if you leak down to the intake or exhaust, you have a valve issue. my bet is on head gasket and collapsed piston skirts.
 

mxguy132

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Nov 4, 2011
Messages
21
something went awry with my reply to your first post. with 130psi, that is low. cylinders lower than that are worse. I think you did a bit of damage with the overheat. if you are leaking water, you took out the head gasket. run another compression test, document each cylinder. then do a leak down test for each cylinder. if you have leakdown to the crank case and not ajoining cylinders you have done a bit of damage to piston and rings. if you leak down to the water jacket, you have have a bad head gasket. if you leak down to the intake or exhaust, you have a valve issue. my bet is on head gasket and collapsed piston skirts.
The reason I don't think it's a head gasket is there is no significant amount of water in the oil. Oil still looks really clean and I ran it for a long period time after I overheated it. You could be right about the rings and pistons on the one cylinder that's 50 psi lower then 130. I'm going to do the leak down and another compression test this weekend and let you know how it goes. Thanks for the info Mx guy
 

Scott Danforth

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You do not always get water in the oil with a head gasket. I have had plenty of headgaskets, especially on aluminum heads on an iron block where the only notice of a head gasket failure was combustion gasses in the coolant. if left, they would all of a sudden overheat as the exhaust pushed the coolant out of the block.
 

alldodge

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Ok.....

I’ve owned this 2000 maxum 19' cuddy with a 5L merc I/O for 4 years now and its been a great boat and hasn’t given me a lot of grief . Replaced the wear and tear, winterized properly, and between me and the previous owner, it hasn’t seen a lot of the salt chuck. It's mainly been a fresh water boat.

A few weeks ago I took it in the ocean for the day and when we were heading back to the launch it was starting to get dark. I must of gone through a kelp bed and of course the one light that doesn’t work on my dash cluster is the temp and my alarm didn't go off when the boat started to over heat.

Not going to go into great detail, but I finally smelled my burning motor and shut it off right away and let it cool down. I started it up after the it cooled and it fired up no problem. I looked at the damage but nothing to visible without tools and a tear down.

Next day I got it back on the trailer and started to tear it apart. I knew right away that one of my remote cables wasn’t smoothly working and found that I melted the lower cable from the top of the motor down to the leg and melted both the rubber one way flappers in the manifold.

I replaced the impeller, removed all the rubber/metal bits in the leg and manifolds from the flappers and replaced them, replaced the lower cable.

I put the boat in the lake the next week for a test run and everything seemed ok till I went for a pull on my slalom ski. Getting out of the hole was a lot harder and slower then most times, so did a compression test and made sure all the plugs were firing.

So hears the break down and where I'm at at the moment and what I should do next,

5 out of the 8 cylinders read 130ish. The two middle cylinder on the starboard side (That is cylinders 4 and 6) have a water leak but the oil still looks good and not milky at all. One of those two is 20 psi down but the other one still reads 130.
On the port side, the aft cylinder is really low, 50psi down and the one in front of it, is around 10 psi down from 130psi

The next thing I'm going to do is a air leak test and manifold tear down. The manifolds are stock and haven’t been replaced. I'm hoping I just have a manifold/riser leak and maybe I might of bent a valve(s) or broken spring(s) and not messed up the cylinder/piston/crank

When I talked to my local Merc dealer they said that it's rare to blow a head gasket when over heat. Its always manifold/ riser leaks and the valve train that gets damaged first when you over heat in older Merc motors.

I'm not really wanting to put a load of money into this boat as I was going to sell it next season and get a tournament/competition boat as we spend more time doing water sports and lake cruising, but I'll sure miss having a cuddy.

I guess what I'm looking for on here is not a quick fix but worst and best case scenarios. Not including time but what is this little oops going to cost me in parts and machine time.

Any input and info would be greatly appreciated!

You have water leaking between cylinders 4 and 6 leans me to a head gasket. While the Merc mechanic IMO is partially right. The head gasket didn't initially fail, it was caused by the head warping which it turn unsealed the head gasket. Most of the overheats found here at iboats are all fixed by head gasket and many require head work.

Merc manual 24 states your engine should have 100psi minimum per cylinder and any one cylinder should be between 70 percent of the highest. Your highest is 130 so you lowest should be no lower then 91psi.
 

Lewis1111

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Jun 1, 2013
Messages
62
I would agree with alldodge on this one. I always have the heads looked at when a engine overheats that bad. They tend to warp easily and just replacing the head gasket will not help. While you have it all apart take the head into a machine shop or put a straight edge on it yourself to check for warping. Best of luck!!
 

mxguy132

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Nov 4, 2011
Messages
21
Thanks for all the info and input guys. I was most likely going to do a complete tear down anyways. I'm just hoping machine work isn't going to cost a small fortune! I've gone online and looked at how much it would be in parts for a complete rebuild and at this point with machine work I could get a new ( not refurbished or rebuilt )marine MerCruiser 350 with valve train for not that much more. Any suggestions on a good merCruiser Marine wholesaler in the Pacific Northwest or close to Vancouver BC?
 

Scott Danforth

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remember, underneath the marine exhaust manifolds, and sea water cooling lies a simple GM small block chevrolet from the industrial engine division assembled in the same plant as their truck engines.

to rebuild it should be $1500 max from your local machine shop.
 

mxguy132

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So what you're saying is I don't need to look for a marine Grade engine/block? If that's the case, upgrading to a 350 instead of my 305 is what I always wanted to do and you could really find it an inexpensive automotive 350 small block. What year truck 350 should I be looking for? My boat is a 2000 maxum merCruiser 5.0 L with a two barrel carb
 

Bondo

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So what you're saying is I don't need to look for a marine Grade engine/block? If that's the case, upgrading to a 350 instead of my 305 is what I always wanted to do and you could really find it an inexpensive automotive 350 small block. What year truck 350 should I be looking for? My boat is a 2000 maxum merCruiser 5.0 L with a two barrel carb

Ayuh,..... 1996, to 2000,.....
 

Scott Danforth

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If you pull a low mileage truck motor, for the long block, or have one machined, make sure you change the head gaskets to the stainless marine style, the core plugs to brass, and the cam to a marine cam.

here is a suggestion http://www.compperformancegroupstor..._Code=CC&Product_Code=08-416-8&Category_Code=

Then simply bring over the intake, oil pan, exhaust, ignition and electrics from your 305 and you have a 350 marine.
 

mxguy132

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Nov 4, 2011
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I was told the cam in the gm truck 350 Longblock is exactly the same as the MerCruiser 350. Is that not true? As far as the head gasket is concerned, this will be a freshwater boat only. Well I really need to put a stainless steel in a boat that's only in freshwater? The brass core plugs I will still do just not too sure about having to take a crate motor all apart just to put a stainless steel head gasket in.
 

Bondo

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I was told the cam in the gm truck 350 Longblock is exactly the same as the MerCruiser 350. Is that not true? As far as the head gasket is concerned, this will be a freshwater boat only. Well I really need to put a stainless steel in a boat that's only in freshwater? The brass core plugs I will still do just not too sure about having to take a crate motor all apart just to put a stainless steel head gasket in.

Ayuh,.... The cam may, or may not be a different part number, but there's virtually No difference, what so ever, in runability,...

Most crate motors I'm seein' are comin' with brass core plugs, 'n the differences in the head gaskets is way much less so, now-a-days, Vs; 10 or 20 years ago,...
They're All Composites, no more steel shim gaskets,...
I wouldn't hesitate to run the gaskets in the crate motor, as is, Especially in a sweetwater barge,....
 
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