Almost No Compression ?

alldodge

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Rust it is.

Look at number 8 exhaust. It's stuck at least 1/8" open. These heads will be in the shop tomorrow, maybe I'll get them back in a week.

Nothing but the bolts and stern drive left to pull the motor and send it to the shop.

Thank you all for all the motivation, I wouldn't have done this on my own.

Do you think I should start a new forum to let you all know how this turns out? Or just post back here in a week or so?

Sorry for your trouble but when your done with the motor you will be trouble free and enjoy it a lot more :thumb: Look forward to further updates
 

Bondo

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Rust it is.

Look at number 8 exhaust. It's stuck at least 1/8" open. These heads will be in the shop tomorrow, maybe I'll get them back in a week.

Nothing but the bolts and stern drive left to pull the motor and send it to the shop.

Thank you all for all the motivation, I wouldn't have done this on my own.

Do you think I should start a new forum to let you all know how this turns out? Or just post back here in a week or so?

Ayuh,..... This is Yer thread Bud,.... You can post an up-date in it, Anytime, from now til 'ell freezes over,....... ;)

That way, Yer story is all here, at 1 thread,.....
 

AshleysRevenge

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Built my one hoist around the boat in the yard of Friday. Pulled the motor that night and got it on a trailer to go to the shop.



Complete motor and heads are out of the boat and in the machine shop. With the holiday weekend I expect to get an accurate estaminet on Wednesday the 3rd.

At what point $$ does one tell the machine shop NO and go with a new motor?
 

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Fishermark

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At what point $$ does one tell the machine shop NO and go with a new motor?

Well, you can pick up a brand new crate engine for about $1,500 with new everything. That will give you an idea of what you should or shouldn't be spending on fixing up what you have.

nal-10067353_sn_ml.jpg
 

alldodge

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Might not be an issue but in the pic where your engine is over the back of the boat there doesn't appear to be much more room to work with. Best way to put the engine back in is preassembled. In that case the engine will weight more and be taller. All parts are best, but this isn't to say you cannot finish assembly once in the boat.
 

AshleysRevenge

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in the pic where your engine is over the back of the boat there doesn't appear to be much more room to work with

No worries I can move the main cross beam up another foot or so. When I put the motor back in it will have the heads on it. Just not the exhaust manifold or risers.
 

AshleysRevenge

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Is long block just another name for small block vs big block?

BAD NEWS

The machine shop called me this morning and told me the block had already been board to its max and was done for and the heads were falling apart. It can't be rebuilt, it's done.

Pep Boys was able to call and get a price of $2500 for block and heads marine grade with an 18month warranty, but nothing else.

I want to make sure I am getting what I had or better and will work with my new intake.

The stamp on the block is #10066036 (casement?)

I think the Serial was M12039V8

Looking for a motor now. The shop also told me if I could find a matching motor at a junk yard they could rebuild it and it would cost less. "something that hasn't seen salt water" was the comment. What are your thoughts?
 

alldodge

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Is long block just another name for small block vs big block?

BAD NEWS

The machine shop called me this morning and told me the block had already been board to its max and was done for and the heads were falling apart. It can't be rebuilt, it's done.

Pep Boys was able to call and get a price of $2500 for block and heads marine grade with an 18month warranty, but nothing else.

I want to make sure I am getting what I had or better and will work with my new intake.

The stamp on the block is #10066036 (casement?)

I think the Serial was M12039V8

Looking for a motor now. The shop also told me if I could find a matching motor at a junk yard they could rebuild it and it would cost less. "something that hasn't seen salt water" was the comment. What are your thoughts?

Long block means it has the heads, oil pan and valve covers. All you would need is intake and other parts off your engine to complete. A short block does not have the heads and such. In my opinion you best bet would be to buy a NEW crate motor. Don't get one from the junk yard and have it rebuilt.

Just google new marine 350 crate motor, you will find all kinds of prices $2500 or less. Pep boys isn't bad

Edit: make sure what ever engine you get it has a 1-piece rear main seal (new engines do)
 
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AshleysRevenge

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In my case does it matter if the cam is flat tappet or roller tappet? Any one know?
 

alldodge

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In my case does it matter if the cam is flat tappet or roller tappet? Any one know?

That is irrelevant if you buy a new long block. All those components will be new and inside the engine. If you go buy a block or older engine then this would be an issue
 

Bondo

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In my case does it matter if the cam is flat tappet or roller tappet? Any one know?

Ayuh,.... Regardless what yer old motor is, a Roller Cam is what ya want to get,.....

At this point in history, flat tappet cams are fadin' fast, due to other changes in the motor's environment, mainly Oils, 'n Fuels,....

Startin' with Yer '83 vintage, I'd go with the current production 350 Vortec,....
You'll need an update/ retro-fit Coupler,....
A different flywheel,....
A new Intake manifold, 'n an electric fuel pump to pull it off,....
 

Fishermark

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... make sure what ever engine you get it has a 1-piece rear main seal (new engines do)

Unless I am mistaken, his engine would have a 2 piece rear main.

You can spend whatever you want of course, but there is no reason to get a "marine" long block. There is no difference - despite what the sales people will tell you - between a truck long block and a marine. There is not a special marine block or crank or pistons, etc. You simply want to make sure the core plugs are brass, not steel, and the cam is appropriate for marine use. A truck cam is exactly what you want.

The engine I posted earlier is what you want - anything else is a waste of money.
 

alldodge

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Unless I am mistaken, his engine would have a 2 piece rear main.
.

Not to start a bantering effort, but all new marine engines have a 1 piece rear main seal. Only ones which have a 2-piece are rebuilds
 

Fishermark

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Not to start a bantering effort, but all new marine engines have a 1 piece rear main seal. Only ones which have a 2-piece are rebuilds

That may be true - but he is fixing what he currently has. And he currently has an engine with a two piece rear main. If he is looking to keep his costs down, he can transfer his old parts - including the coupler - over and save some money. The two piece rear main engine is a fine engine that worked for decades. The main difference with the one piece is simply a better oil seal. The engine I referenced is a brand new (not rebuilt) engine with a 2 piece rear main.

I'm not advocating one over the other... just giving some ideas to keep his costs down.
 
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AshleysRevenge

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Fishermark - below is from the motor linked with summit racing

This engine is not designed, nor intended to be used in any marine applications. Engines installed in vehicles registered and normally operated outside of the United States carry no warranty. Can be used in light duty pickups of 7200 GVW or less.

Makes me wonder...

Yes, I would like to use what I could off the old motor but that an't much. The fly wheel has to be replace do to many missing teeth. All but the water pump I already have replaced/ taken off and sitting on a bench now.

According to the case # the motor didn't belong to this boat anyway. It is an 1986 and up, so I've found.

Yes Bondo, that sounds nice, but honestly that's probably over kill for this situation. If I could get a few half way head ash free years out of the boat after this I think I would be happy.
 
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