5.7L Ski Ignition Coil

[ChrisDinCA]

i'm trying to replace my ignition coil, but want to make sure i get correct one. i'm finding conflicting info in the parts that come up.
My Specs' are:
1991 MIE 5.7L Competition Ski, v8, 250hp
mallory ignition w/ points & condenser
engine s/n: D399882L

Mercruiser Service manual #15, shows part number 32193. the replacements for this don't look right...

Also, the afermarket coil i currently have has a much higher primary resistance than spec.. (4.5ohms v.s. 1.1-1.5) i'm thinking this may be contributing to hard start when warm problems i have...

comments would be great.
thanks.

 

[alldodge]

i'm trying to replace my ignition coil, but want to make sure i get correct one. i'm finding conflicting info in the parts that come up.
My Specs' are:
1991 MIE 5.7L Competition Ski, v8, 250hp
mallory ignition w/ points & condenser
engine s/n: D399882L

Mercruiser Service manual #15, shows part number 32193. the replacements for this don't look right...

Also, the afermarket coil i currently have has a much higher primary resistance than spec.. (4.5ohms v.s. 1.1-1.5) i'm thinking this may be contributing to hard start when warm problems i have...

comments would be great.
thanks.

Glad you have your serial number because looking info up at mercruiserparts is a waste of time. That being said you coil should be one of the following listed below:

Mercury 898253T24 / 392-806529A 1
OMC 3853548
Sierra 18-5433
GLM 72110
Mallory 9-29700

Now if you can provide more input to your start problem when warn we will try to help.

 

[ChrisDinCA]

why do these part numbers show a coil that requires an external resistor?.. i do not have one.. but maybe i'm confused about what that is, (or maybe that's my problem!!)
There is a condenser under the distributor cap, near the points.. but nothing else. do i need to get the external resistor w/ this coil?.. where does it go?..what does it look like?
thanks.

 

[Bondo]

why do these part numbers show a coil that requires an external resistor?.. i do not have one.. but maybe i'm confused about what that is, (or maybe that's my problem!!)
There is a condenser under the distributor cap, near the points.. but nothing else. do i need to get the external resistor w/ this coil?.. where does it go?..what does it look like?
thanks.

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,....

The purple wire, at the coil's (+) terminal should show 'bout 7v to 9v, except when the starter's turnin' over, then it'll be battery voltage,...
The wire is resisted,..

When were the the points last changed, 'n set,..??

 

[ChrisDinCA]

Thanks!

Coil questions:

Why do these part numbers show a coil that requires an external resistor?.. i do not have one.. but maybe i'm confused about what that is, (or maybe that's my problem!!)
There is a condenser under the distributor cap, near the points.. but nothing else. do i need to get the external resistor w/ this coil?.. where does it go?..what does it look like?

Warm Hard start issues;
usually hard to start when warm requiring wot and long crank times before it finally starts. then lots of black smoke till the extra fuel burns off... lovely.
carb was rebuilt last season by : flyingfishcarburetors.com
i run blower almost all of the time, when driving, when sitting.. whenever..
new polnts and plugs, properly gapped.
timed to 8deg btdc
i've run it with stabil ethonal marine fuel treatment and w/o.. doesn't seem to make a difference.

thanks

 

[Bondo]

Thanks!

Coil questions:

Why do these part numbers show a coil that requires an external resistor?.. i do not have one.. but maybe i'm confused about what that is, (or maybe that's my problem!!)
There is a condenser under the distributor cap, near the points.. but nothing else. do i need to get the external resistor w/ this coil?.. where does it go?..what does it look like?

Warm Hard start issues;
usually hard to start when warm requiring wot and long crank times before it finally starts. then lots of black smoke till the extra fuel burns off... lovely.
carb was rebuilt last season by : flyingfishcarburetors.com
i run blower almost all of the time, when driving, when sitting.. whenever..
new polnts and plugs, properly gapped.
timed to 8deg btdc
i've run it with stabil ethonal marine fuel treatment and w/o.. doesn't seem to make a difference.

thanks

Ayuh,.... The wire is the resistor, Check the Voltage,.....

You have a Carb problem,.... rebuilt or not,...
Is the Choke workin',..??
Do you actuate the throttle on restart, or it just stays at idle, 'n ya hit the key,..??

 

[alldodge]

Thanks!

Coil questions:

Why do these part numbers show a coil that requires an external resistor?.. i do not have one.. but maybe i'm confused about what that is, (or maybe that's my problem!!)
There is a condenser under the distributor cap, near the points.. but nothing else. do i need to get the external resistor w/ this coil?.. where does it go?..what does it look like?

The resistor is in (or part of ) the purple wire going to the coil. If you put a volt meter on it you will read about 7 to 9 volts when in run position. When cranking it will go to 12V or so as Bondo mentioned.

Warm Hard start issues;
usually hard to start when warm requiring wot and long crank times before it finally starts. then lots of black smoke till the extra fuel burns off... lovely.
carb was rebuilt last season by : flyingfishcarburetors.com
i run blower almost all of the time, when driving, when sitting.. whenever..
new polnts and plugs, properly gapped.
timed to 8deg btdc
i've run it with stabil ethonal marine fuel treatment and w/o.. doesn't seem to make a difference.

thanks

Sounds like your carb is leaking fuel or the needle seat needs to be chanied out during a rebuild. When you shut the engine off the carb continues to leak fuel into the engine. This is why you have to go to WOT to get it started. Need to rebuild or replace the carb

 

[ChrisDinCA]

thanks all. i'll chase these things down and confirm. i'll be on shasta next week, so i'll have lots of time to tinker w/ it...

 

[ChrisDinCA]

just to close the loop on this.. here's what i did;
1.replaced the coil with the mallory oem coil and check the voltage on +side, verified 8v when not running.
2. cleaned the spark arestor really really well.
3. adjusted blower hose to make it closer to the carb
4. replaced carb gasket w/ the 1/4" thick gasket
4. torqued the carb hold down bolts to spec, 134 in-lbs
5. replaced the t-stat to 140 deg f stat, per oem spec.. (took out a broken 160 stat.. someone else put in)
6. verified the carb was not leaking fuel when at normal operating temp and motor off.. yea, this was a big one to verify. .. and i'm glad to know it's good.
7. verified the choke was full open when at temp.
8. fine adjusted the idle mixture jets to lean out

a lot of little things, but now it runs like a top! it fired right up each time w/o fail.
FINALLY!!. YEAH. . it's been a long time coming for sure. what a relief.

thanks for everyone's valued input.