Mercruiser 3.0L Leaking water

[newbie_owner]

Hi guys,

I took the boat out for the first time this season and it ran great. Temp was good, oil pressure good; however, I noticed water dripping from the engine on the right side. I winterized it by using a home winterizing kit and running RV anti-freeze into it.

I can't figure out exactly where the drip is originating. It looks like it is dripping from the plate that is bolted to engine block but I have no idea if water even goes through there. Most of what I read on her is about leaks on the left side of the engine not the right. Can't seem to replicate the problem on the muffs. I guess I will have to take it back to the lake and try it out again.

Here are a couple pics, any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[newbie_owner]

No Title

 

[newbie_owner]

No Title

Oil is clean, could it be a crack in the block behind the push rod cover? Head gasket?

 

[achris]

Are you sure ALL the oil is clean? On Mercruiser engines, the dipstick tube goes all the way to the bottom of the sump (oil pan) and the dipstick only sees 'fresh' oil when the oil is changed. Pull the oil filler cap off and see what the oil looks like inside the rocker cover. Usually when a 3 litre block cracks, it cracks across the lifter cavity (that's one of the weakest places).... The other thing I would do, pressure test the engine. Block off the water inlet hose ,maybe use that as the point to attach a pressure gauge, something like a radiator test kit. And use the outgoing water hose, just where it goes into the manifold, to add pressure. Usually test at 2 or 3 different pressures, 2 psi, 10 psi and 20 psi. Hold each for a couple of hours, it's a large volume and a small leak will take a while to show on the gauge....

Chris.....

 

[newbie_owner]

Thanks achris, just checked the oil filler cap and everything is clean. I will have to try the pressure test.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Need a better explanation of how you winterized it. just going by your statement you didn't drain the block first, so I`m guessing you cracked the block.
Plus those dammed photo`s added thru this site really suck. Try using photobucket .com to post better pics.

 

[newbie_owner]

Well, this is the process I used when I winterized it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYWV5O6rPP8

I will check out photobucket.

Thanks

 

[newbie_owner]

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag195/2006_175/IMG_9833_zpsefa65540.jpg

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag195/2006_175/IMG_9832_zps1cc213b8.jpg

Does this work?

 

[DaveG55]

Im sorry, that guy has soo much wrong in that video...
First, the thing on the carb is a spark arrester. Next, the stabil is the ffirst thing to do. Doing it last leaves plain, untreated gas in the carb, a sure way to gum it up.. Then he doesnt drain the engine but puts the antifreeze into the muffs, a poor way to do the job. Plus it dilutes the antifreeze, a bad thing withrv aantifreeze. Also, it appears that he neglects to change the engine oil as part of the winterizing, a bad thing to my mind.

It's just not that hard to drain the engine properly and fill it with antifreeze nor to do the rest properly.

 

[Bt Doctur]

I hope you didn't use that exact process. The stress on the U joints must have been unbearable. That guy is a total dork for even posting something like that.
If you mean leaking from that area ,look a bit higher at the lower shift cable. It`s green , the slave solenoid is green and most likely anything under the shift cable is corroded or rusting.That happens when the water inlet O ring is missing or damaged.Water gets pushed up thru the shift cable and enters the motor area.
You need to pull the drive to correct the leak and replace the lower shift cable.Leakage is visable when in the water ,rarely on a hose but possible.

 

[500dollar744ti]

^^^ Now that you said that, I had to watch the video. What a terrible way to winterize. Not only is it terrible, it takes longer than doing it the right way.

To the OP, if you cracked the block but it's not mixing water with the oil, you could try and patch it up with something. I have successfully done that in the past even though the correct way to fix it is replacing the block.

It would be best if you can post a video of it leaking to determine the source.

Also, it looks like you got enough corrosion on that solenoid attached to the block to cause a problem real soon. I would get that cleaned up so you don't have a break down.

 

[newbie_owner]

Bt Doctur:

Are you saying that water can actually come through the shift cable up to the engine and leak out the threaded area? If so, it would certainly look like a good guess because of all the corrosion that is isolated to that area.

closer look at the solenoid it is corroded quite a bit and has white residue on the plastic:

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag195/2006_175/photo21_zps757643af.jpg

The paint on the push-rod cover on the side of the block was pealing off to I pulled the paint off and is was wet under the paint. You can see the rust lines that looks like water has been dripping for a while and looks like its right under the solenoid that is right under the shift cable.

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag195/2006_175/photo12_zps33136733.jpg

I hope this is it. Cheaper than a new block.

Thanks again so much everyone, I will have to take it on the lake and find that leak. Once I find it I will send it to the mechanic and get it fixed. I will report after I have talked to the mechanic.

 

[Bt Doctur]

My guess is that once it`s in the water and running you will see the water dripping from the shift cable. Considering the corrosion present inside the boat I would replace the shift cable at this time. When the drive is removed look at the O ring in the water passage if it`s even there.

 

[fishrdan]

^^^ Now that you said that, I had to watch the video. What a terrible way to winterize. Not only is it terrible, it takes longer than doing it the right way.

Yeah me too, thought I was watching "Friday the 13th" of the boating world, except Freddy was wielding a jug of antifreeze instead of a chain saw ...

The really scary part is, half the comments said it was a great video tutorial :faint2: (The other half of comments were bashing the guy...)

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[achris]

If it is leaking up the shift cable then check the seal in the bottom of the bell-hosuing, there the upper shift shaft passes through... Hadn't noticed the water on the shift cable before someone else mentioned it... I was looking at the small photos at the beginning.. :facepalm:... I also read that you used RV anitfreeze... That's immediately lead me to the 'cracked block' conclusion... Best way to winterise an engine.. oil and filter change, fuel filter and fuel treatment (if you believe in snake-oil) ... Drain the water out of the block and manifold... Walk away. That's it... Air don't freeze.



Man, I have just watched that Video... WOW, how to totally screw not just the engine but take the drive with it.... That has to be the WORST video I have seen on winterising...

 

[DaveG55]

Two things.
I do believe Stabil works when used pproperly. If I put lawn equipment away without it I'm cleaning carbs next spring. When I use it, it's start and go. If that's voodoo then so be it
Next, I read a lot that "air doesn't freeze". And while that's true, Mercruiser, on their websites FAQ site, says multiple times to backfill the engine block with undiluted RV style antifreeze, the proplyene glycol formulation, not the alcohol based one, with rust protection. Since that tracks with my experience that's what I tend to do, it's only a few extra $$ and I know I'm protected against internal rust and corosion.

 

[achris]

The important words there are "back fill"... You absolutely must drain ALL the water out of the block and manifold BEFORE you fill the engine with AF...Your lawn mowing equipment? I'm guessing 2 stroke stuff. In which case the stabil will help the oil and fuel stay together. In a 4 stroke you have absolutely no need of a fuel stabiliser during cold weather. Straight petrol (without oil mix in) is good for over a year at low temperatures.

 

[DaveG55]

Nope, mostly 4 cycle stuff. Only one piece of 2 cycle. The 4 cycle stuff is worse.
The fuel here is up to 15% ethanol and it can seperate. It will also form gum and varnish and clog the carb.
Once again, Mercruiser, on their FAQ site, says to use fuel addative it the boat is to sit for 2 months or more.
Not really trying to convince you to change your practices but I know whathas worked best for me and don't really intend to change that either.

 

[achris]

Nope, mostly 4 cycle stuff. Only one piece of 2 cycle. The 4 cycle stuff is worse.
The fuel here is up to 15% ethanol and it can seperate. It will also form gum and varnish and clog the carb.
Once again, Mercruiser, on their FAQ site, says to use fuel addative it the boat is to sit for 2 months or more.
Not really trying to convince you to change your practices but I know whathas worked best for me and don't really intend to change that either.

That's fair enough, but when you winterise, drop all the water out of the block before you fill with AF... And yes, ethanol in the fuel changes things. We have that here (Australia) but it's not common, or popular, and it is more expensive that straight petrol... :noidea: