4.3 vortec aluminum oil pan installation

[oregonrafter]

I want to install an aluminum oil pan on my mercruiser 4.3 vortec (1997 model). This has been a little frustrating to research. From what I can tell, the mercruiser-specified aluminum oil pan is identical to the oil pan that is made for many trucks and SUV's, and appears to have the exact same bolt pattern on the end that faces the flywheel cover (bell housing). The problem I'm having, is that it appears that the bolt holes on the aluminum oil pan do not match-up to the bolt holes on the lower flywheel cover. Are these meant to bolt together? After scratching a hole in my head for the last couple days, I have the opinion that aren't meant to bolt together. If you have installed an aluminum oil pan on your 4.3, I would really like to hear from you. Is your aluminum pan bolted to your bellhousing?

The steel oil pan doesn't bolt to the bell housing, so does the aluminum one bolt to it, or is it just married to it without bolts? ...I see that it sort of acts as a flex plate for the lower part of the bell housing.

Thanks for your help! -Mike

 

[achris]

Re: 4.3 vortec aluminum oil pan installation

The ali pan does not bolt up to the flywheel housing. It comes close, and the front cover of that housing bolts to that housing. There are no bolts between the flywheel housing and the oil pan...

And yes, it's a stock GM part... Don't buy it through Merc and pay an arm and a leg for it, get it from a GM supplier....

HTH,

Chris......

 

[oregonrafter]

Re: 4.3 vortec aluminum oil pan installation

The ali pan does not bolt up to the flywheel housing. It comes close, and the front cover of that housing bolts to that housing. There are no bolts between the flywheel housing and the oil pan...

And yes, it's a stock GM part... Don't buy it through Merc and pay an arm and a leg for it, get it from a GM supplier....

HTH,

Chris......

Chris, Thanks so much for affirming my suspicion. I really appreciate it. The aluminum oil pan I purchased was reconditioned and only $65. ...Bargain days.

 

[oregonrafter]

Re: 4.3 vortec aluminum oil pan installation

OK, the pan is installed, but I'm seeing two semi-circular holes in the bottom of the oil pan. These look like they should be plugged, or else the flywheel will be somewhat exposed. Thoughts?

Also, I see that there is a plug in the block, where the dipstick should be installed. How do I remove this plug?

I can't seem to upload any pictures. Can someone help me with this?

Edit: In this picture, you can see these semi-circular "holes" in the bottom of the pan (where the pan meets the bell housing) http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-image.html?adId=554830923&image=2&enableSearchNavigationFlag=false

 

[achris]

Re: 4.3 vortec aluminum oil pan installation

Those semi-circular cutouts are for access to the two rearmost bolts. They remain 'uncovered'...

The dipstick tube goes to the oil pan drain plug, it no longer goes into the engine block. The drain plug fitting is a tee, with one end plugged (for draining or the 'quick drain' hose), the other has the tube on it.

Chris....

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...140&bdesc=Oil+Pan,+Oil+Pump+and+Rear+Oil+Seal

In that drawing, #12 is the tee fitting, #18 is the dipstick tube, #19 is the dipstick. #22 and #25 are the 'quick drain' hose..

 

[oregonrafter]

Re: 4.3 vortec aluminum oil pan installation

Chris, I have a way better understanding, thanks to you.

Is there a reason the dipstick doesn't just take a standard route between the engine & manifold, like this one?
http://www.handymanlyness.com/archi...d_01/01/emcrra04a_engine_rebuild_99_Jimmy.jpg
It seems like there would be room for the dipstick to route this way, and since this oil pan is basically for a car, the inner "baffle" is already set-up to receive the dipstick: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzUwWDEwMDA=/z/3h8AAOxyNo9Svkks/$_20.JPG
I'm just wondering why I need to purchase the "T" and the special dipstick, when this pan is already set-up correctly to receive a dipstick from the top.

The schematic you referenced, appears to show a steel pan. Do you know if the steel pan drain plug is metric? The aluminum pan has a 12mm (metric) plug. If I end-up ordering the "T" and special dipstick, I want to make sure it's going to fit the metric threads.

 

[achris]

Re: 4.3 vortec aluminum oil pan installation

The tee is just a Tee, no thread.... But... the fitting that screws to the oil pan, through the tee and therefore holding it to the oil pan is brass, and has holes drilled in it. I'd had mine on and off about a dozen times chasing a front cover cracking problem, and it softened and broke. It's part of the quick drain hose, and is ridiculously expensive from Merc (where have I heard that story before :facepalm... When mine broken and Merc asked over $100 for the replacement, I told Merc where I thought it best be placed , and I made my own. I didn't need the quick drain hose (didn't use it even when I did have it), so I put a standard 12mm bolt of the right length in a lathe and centre drilled it, then put it in a drill press and drilled a cross-hole.... All holes are 6mm from memory... Job done, less than $5, thank you....

Ok, the oil pan and block do have the cutout for the dipstick tube, but GM are no longer using it... Remember that Merc tubes run all the way to the bottom of the oil pan so the oil can be sucked out for an oil change. Many engines in (poorly designed) boats don't allow access to the drain plug, so the ONLY way to remove the oil is up through the tube. And some people just don't like 5 litres of old sump oil swilling around in the bilge (count me as one of them)... With the tube connected directly to the drain hole, easy....

The dipstick tube screws onto the tee, so the threads will be compatible... The only thing that screws into the oil pan is the end of the quick drain hose, or in my case, a 12mm bolt with special holes drilled in it...

The schematic you referenced, appears to show a steel pan.

Nope. Even that one is cast ali...

Chris.....

Oh, and don't forget the plastic washers either side of the tee...

 

[oregonrafter]

Re: 4.3 vortec aluminum oil pan installation

Chris,
I added up the cost of all the parts for the dipstick and drain tube I'd need If I went with the Mercruiser parts you suggest, and the total is $251.69. No joke. WTF?

I'm planning to use the dipstick as a dipstick (only), and will drain the oil through an MPI drain tube that is connected to the oil pan drain hole. I'm still not seeing why this won't work. I'm still able to check my oil level with a dipstick, and I'm still able to drain the oil from the lowest point, and I can buy all of the parts I need for about $47. Granted, it's not doing what Mercruiser wants me to do, but do you see any holes in this logic?

 

[achris]

Re: 4.3 vortec aluminum oil pan installation

What is an MPI drain tube?

 

[oregonrafter]

Re: 4.3 vortec aluminum oil pan installation

What is an MPI drain tube?

This: http://marinehose.com/mpi/products_accessories_OILDKIT.htm

 

[Lensman]

Hi. I have to replace the oil pan on my Volvo 5.7 GSi because it rusted through. Looking at the OEM parts, the prices are ridiculous. I'm tempted to put the stock auto pan in and put a standard dip stick on the side of the engine. A little more trouble to check oil but better than spending $500 for a pan and gasket. There's a windage tray in the oil pan so I can remove the baffle from the engine if needed. Use the MPI tube for draining as described in this post and it should work. Anyone see an issue with this?

 

[Bt Doctur]

If the block has a plug in the dipstick hole, remove the pan and punch it out from the inside..then install the regular marine dipstick tube with some RTV

 

[oregonrafter]

Hi. I have to replace the oil pan on my Volvo 5.7 GSi because it rusted through. Looking at the OEM parts, the prices are ridiculous. I'm tempted to put the stock auto pan in and put a standard dip stick on the side of the engine. A little more trouble to check oil but better than spending $500 for a pan and gasket. There's a windage tray in the oil pan so I can remove the baffle from the engine if needed. Use the MPI tube for draining as described in this post and it should work. Anyone see an issue with this?

Lensman,
I was able to use the automotive pan on mine. There is no difference between the mercruiser pan and the automotive pan, other than color. As others have mentioned, you'll probably have to punch out the dipstick plug in the block. For the dipstick tube, I was able to go to a u-pull-it type wrecking yard, and got a dipstick tube from an SUV for $5. It's a tight fit, but I was able to get it to route between the engine block and manifolds... One caveat: There was no place to mount a retainer screw for the dipstick, as it mounts in a different place on a car engine block than a boat block. I don't think this is a big deal, and I'll retrofit something if it becomes problematic.

I did not have to alter or remove the inner baffle/shield from the oil pan. My dipstick tube worked fine with it in place.

I recommend the oil drain tube I referenced in post #10. It worked great for my application.

The money I saved from going with car parts was substantial. I highly recommend that you go with this. I think I'm in to the pan, dipstick and drain tube for under a hundy. -Bargain days. Don't pay the "Mercruiser Man" unless you have to.