Looks like i'm getting into bravo outdrive repair

[bruceb58]

Re: Looks like i'm getting into bravo outdrive repair

Looks like an interesting job. Not sure I would tackle it.

 

[alldodge]

Re: Looks like i'm getting into bravo outdrive repair

Ayuh,... Looks like yer havin' Fun,..... My Buddy, Bob does the Bravos,... I ain't had 1 apart,...

By the looks of that gear, in the top pic, I'd say ya caught it in time,.... Great thing,...

It coulda gone Catastrophic sometime soon,.....

I am having a ball .. not. I am glad I got into it before it came apart. What I have so far I need to replace the pinion and front prop gear. I think the gears are gona hurt a bit in the pocket book. The prop gear has a Timken bearing and race on it and I can make out the numbers, at least that's will be a bit cheaper then buying from Merc

Looks like an interesting job. Not sure I would tackle it.

Agree, I didn't want to do it either. But life just kinda handed me a present.. so to speak, whether I like it or not

 

[achris]

Re: Looks like i'm getting into bravo outdrive repair

Looks like an interesting job. Not sure I would tackle it.

Agree, I didn't want to do it either. But life just kinda handed me a present.. so to speak, whether I like it or not

Personally, I like those kinds of 'presents', a great learning opportunity, and you can get it fixed and working properly, the way YOU want it done... :thumb:

 

[alldodge]

Re: Looks like i'm getting into bravo outdrive repair

I do like doing things my self but sometimes I would like to find folks that do things right. Oh well so it goes

Just order the gears, they come as a set. Also since I am replacing the gears I have to re-shim. To re-shim I need another TOOL and shims. Somebody make it stop, or at least slow down. Bring on another thousand.... again :facepalm:

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Looks like i'm getting into bravo outdrive repair

To re-shim I need another TOOL and shims. Somebody make it stop, or at least slow down.

Yep....why I don't want to do it myself!

 

[alldodge]

Re: B3 outdrive repair

Re: B3 outdrive repair

Received the new style inner shaft seal. Pic shows Old seal far left, New old style seals (2 each) which cam with original kit, then new seal.



Didn't have the correct tool for inserting the new seal. The new style seals use a nylon ring on top to protect the inner double lip seal. Used the old seal and a hose clamp to press it in the new.



Pressed in until the hose clamp was pushed up and came in contact with arbor. Removed the clamp and finished pressing the seal in to correct depth.



Both seals installed and ready for reassembly once the new gears come in



Looking forward to finishing one of my projects

 

[alldodge]

Installing shims

Installing shims

Managed to get the new gear set and found out I needed to remove the pinion shaft lower race to remove shims. The new gear tolerance stack up had me above .028 clearance. Had to remove all shims to bring it with in range. Glad I decided to buy (sort of) both upper and lower race shims.



Put the upper inner and outer shafts in and starter turning it down to 200FTLB. Once I got to 150FTLB it was real hard to turn the pinion shaft. Figured out I put the shims (different shims previously purchased) on the wrong side of the race. Pulled everything apart and dropped the iner shaft out of the other shaft and bent the thrust bearing. :facepalm:

So I now have on order a new set of shims to the prop shaft housing and a new thrust bearing. not really :facepalm:




Hope when these come in there will be no other issues I run into. Fingers crossed

 

[alldodge]

Putting it in final assembly

Putting it in final assembly

Received the shims and thrust bearing today.
The manual says to replace the shims with new but I really do not see the need. Old shims measured .035 so I pulled shims out of new kit and installed the new shims at .035.



New trust bearing due to last one was damaged



Bearing installed with needle bearing lube. Manual does not say to use needle bearing lube in this location due to it is immersed in gear lube but I said what the heck.



Install the inner prop shaft



Install shims for outer prop shaft race.
Install outer prop shaft, then need to install outer race.



Good note hear is the outer race fits into the housing with very tight tolerances. It is almost impossible to just slide it in. What I did which worked well, was I used the carrier bearing installation tool to center it into that housing. Don't push just real lightly adjust the tool until it drops in on top the race and the race will wind up right where it needs to be.

 

[alldodge]

Final Assembly Part 2

Final Assembly Part 2

Here is the tool which is used to tighten the bearing retaining nut and I used to center the race



Make sure to use 2-4-C to lube up the threads in the housing and the retainer nut it self. I have such a hard time getting mine apart because who ever put it together the last time did not do this. The retaining nut has left handed threads. Ease it in, turn to the right to help it lay flat, install the tool and turn to the right until it's centered. Then start turning counter clockwise. Torque to 200 FTLB using the chart in the manual to indicate actual amount due needed based on the length of your torque wrench



More 3-4-C on the threads and O-ring, then torque to 150FTLB as indicated in the chart as stated above



Pressure tested and it passed, filled with gear lube, and ready to install tomorrow

I had the special tools that clamp on the prop shafts to measure backlash but did not have the special tool to preload the top drive shaft bearing. Oh well, it looks and feels great, I'm going to chance it

 

[tpenfield]

Re: Looks like i'm getting into bravo outdrive repair

Nice write-up. I'll be doing the same soon - as I found oil leaking from the outer prop shaft seal on my Starboard outdrive. I gotta do the drive shaft seal on the Port outdrive.

It looks like once you get all the tools, you are into it for bout $500

 

[achris]

Re: Looks like i'm getting into bravo outdrive repair

What I find way better than 2-4-C is a product called 'Aqua-lube' or 'Aqua-shield'. I use it on anything that gets wet. Just as an example, I put it on the bolts that hold the brake callipers to the axle on the boat trailer. I changed the pads last week. They had been there over 5 years, and after cracking off the bolts, they unscrewed by hand. Same with the wheel nuts (I think you guys call them 'lugs'?) Bit of Aqualube on the threads before I screw them on and 5 years later they come off like they were put on yesterday...

When I have a new drive, I take the screws out one at a time and coat them with this stuff... Never had a bolt not come out. I first got onto it in the industry I work in now, deep water robots, ROVs... We use it on anything that goes subsea, and 'subsea' means up to 10,000 feet...

Anyway, a great job of rebuilding a B3 AD... I will be book-marking this thread and using it as a reference... Thank you...

Chris..........

 

[MikDee]

Re: Looks like i'm getting into bravo outdrive repair

Great Job AllDodge! I'm very impressed that you had the stones to tackle this! Plus the expertise, to do it right! I guess it's a Do, or Die situation, if you can't find anyone else to do it right! More Power to ya, and Good Luck!
Mike D.

 

[alldodge]

Re: Looks like i'm getting into bravo outdrive repair

Thanks to all for the kind words.

Merc said to use 2-4-C but the Aqua lube sounds like the real way to go. Think I'll pick some of that stuff up.

The cost of the tools was $723 and I still don't have the seal removal tool 91‑862064A 1 ($85) which I plan to have if I do it again. Also there are some others which will be needed to remove/replace a couple other items. Put that in with almost as much for parts, I'm figuring I have around 12 to 1300 in the drive.

 

[achris]

Re: Looks like i'm getting into bravo outdrive repair

Thanks to all for the kind words.

Merc said to use 2-4-C

That's because Merc make money out of 2-4-C.

but the Aqua lube sounds like the real way to go. Think I'll pick some of that stuff up.

The cost of the tools was $723 and I still don't have the seal removal tool 91‑862064A 1 ($85) which I plan to have if I do it again. Also there are some others which will be needed to remove/replace a couple other items. Put that in with almost as much for parts, I'm figuring I have around 12 to 1300 in the drive.

Still cheaper than having it done, AND you know it's been done right... :thumb:

 

[ormjgrouch]

Very Nice Write up AllDodge, exactly what i'm looking for. I will be dissemabling my B3 when spring hits. Want to rent out your tools? hahah

Any updates on the outdrive? working like a charm?

Sorry guys, tagging this so its bookmarked

 

[alldodge]

Very Nice Write up AllDodge, exactly what i'm looking for. I will be dissemabling my B3 when spring hits. Want to rent out your tools? hahah

Any updates on the outdrive? working like a charm?

Sorry guys, tagging this so its bookmarked

It did fine all season, no issues, and rent No

As for the tag in the thread well, this one was past it's 90 day thing

 

[Villain lll]

Nice write up AllDodge. I'm still in the process of rebuilding my Bravo One after I had a failure of the vert drive shaft nut coming off. Once loose, my prop shaft bearings/seals started wobbling pretty good.
I see that I should have taken pictures t/out the process for other to see.
Worked on assembling today and hope to be on the lake soon.