Re Commissioning ?

[VeroWing]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

I installed new thermostat, cleaned up and reinstalled port exhaust manifold and riser with new gaskets. Changed spark plugs, and old plugs looked good with no telltell signs of anything strange going on. Started engine and ran it 20 minutes or so and it ran great, and now I can place my hand on exhaust manifolds/risers and not have to remove it. Both sides feel similar, and I'm seeing good exhaust water coming out of the stern. It's definitely flowing good water on both sides now.

Tazrig, I can appreciate what you are telling me, but when I dismantled port exhaust, the only area with blockage was the plastic fitting that hose from thermostat housing went to on bottom of manifold, and just slightly in the threaded hole it screwed into. The inner plenums of both manifold and riser looked good, and water readily flowed through both. I will keep a close eye on it, and plan to do an in water test of engine/drive as soon as I go through fuel cell and lines. I know it can show different results from testing at idle on water muffs.

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

Hopefully you have only the one water restriction and cleared it. Cooling on the hose is easy, the motor isn't making much heat while NOT being under load.

I had hoped to have caught you before you had it back together to check another water passage. It should be O.K. The riser exits, the small water holes that squirt the discharge water into the exhaust stream. When these holes 'rust up' clogging and reducing water flow, the temp of the exhaust manifolds and engine begin to rise. Sometimes alarmingly rapidly. A small screwdriver to ream out the holes and restore flow. P.I.T.A. if you're out on the water and the wind is beginning to build.

Always carry a few wrenches, screwdrivers and riser gaskets when out very far on the water. Or consider checking/cleaning before your initial launch.

It was a good thing you serviced the water pump. That impeller 'may' have looked O.K., but if you felt the 'softness' of the new one compared to the 'hardened' vanes of the old one. Plus that 'set', the curve the old one has formed, the difference in the amount of water pumped is remarkable. Hardly comparable. It is highly recommended to replace the impeller every two years, whether the motor has been run or not, The impeller will dry, harden, and set even while unused. Carry a spare impeller, sealed in a zip-lock bag inside a paper bag out of the sunlight to drying and sunlight aging.

 

[tazrig]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

I installed new thermostat, cleaned up and reinstalled port exhaust manifold and riser with new gaskets. Changed spark plugs, and old plugs looked good with no telltell signs of anything strange going on. Started engine and ran it 20 minutes or so and it ran great, and now I can place my hand on exhaust manifolds/risers and not have to remove it. Both sides feel similar, and I'm seeing good exhaust water coming out of the stern. It's definitely flowing good water on both sides now.

Tazrig, I can appreciate what you are telling me, but when I dismantled port exhaust, the only area with blockage was the plastic fitting that hose from thermostat housing went to on bottom of manifold, and just slightly in the threaded hole it screwed into. The inner plenums of both manifold and riser looked good, and water readily flowed through both. I will keep a close eye on it, and plan to do an in water test of engine/drive as soon as I go through fuel cell and lines. I know it can show different results from testing at idle on water muffs.

Lets hope that was the only blockage. If it was than yes you should be fine. Unfortunately it's often the areas of the manifolds and risers that you can't see that come back to bite you. And yes, you're right there is a huge difference between being under load and just idling on muffs. Thats why if something is going to let go it's usually when you're out on the water and not in the driveway.

 

[alldodge]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

VeroWing your doing fine, and doing things in a good fashion. Everyone here wants to help and everyone has an opinion and we all know everyone including me has one. No matter what some say we all can be right, wrong and a bit off the deep end. No one here is betting their check book on the advise given but you are by taking ours in consideration with your own.

Hope you have an uneventful boating season

 

[VeroWing]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

Believe me, I appreciate and listen to all that is being said. As soon as I check fuel tank and lines and make sure they are in good order, I'll give it a good shakedown run around close to shore. I noticed none of the gauges were working, so I'll have to fix/replace them as needed too. Thanks all for the help.

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

Gauges, biggest problem is poor connections, and poor grounds. Just about have to take every connection a part, clean, retighten.

Some boats run a separate dash ground wire all the way back to the battery, easily forgotten when connecting a battery.

 

[VeroWing]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

Gauges, biggest problem is poor connections, and poor grounds. Just about have to take every connection a part, clean, retighten.

Some boats run a separate dash ground wire all the way back to the battery, easily forgotten when connecting a battery.

I'm considering replacing the existing gauges because they look pretty crappy. If I do get new gauges, will new gauges work with existing senders, or will senders need replacement also?

 

[tazrig]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

Assuming senders are still good (no reason to think they're not) then you just need to match up the "ohms rating" of the current gauges with the ones you're replacing so they too will match the ohms rating of the sending unit. If you want to start completely fresh than yes, you could also replace the existing sending units with new ones. I'm just saying it might be an unnecessary expense if the old ones still work.

 

[VeroWing]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

Assuming senders are still good (no reason to think they're not) then you just need to match up the "ohms rating" of the current gauges with the ones you're replacing so they too will match the ohms rating of the sending unit. If you want to start completely fresh than yes, you could also replace the existing sending units with new ones. I'm just saying it might be an unnecessary expense if the old ones still work.

I'd much rather save and use existing senders, just needed to know if that was possible. I think I'll go through fuel tank and lines before I get too sidetracked on the gauges. Every time I get on this boat I'm drawn to some other area that needs repaired/replaced/removed, and I have to keep telling myself to stay focused. Then again, I don't want to dump boat in water for maiden voyage without any instrumentation either. Better check trailer too! Oh boy, there I go again!

 

[littlebookworm]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

You seem to have the engine and outdrive renewals well-in-hand. I recommend you also check the bilge pumps and float switches. You want to make sure they work properly. In addition, examine all the thru-hull fitting, especially if they aren't brass. Florida's heat and sunlight can play havok on them. You might want to pull each fuse (if you have any) and light bulb to clean the contacts and the sockets with some emery cloth. Lubricate you shift and throttle cables and pivots. and grease all fittings on the outdrive, the universals, and the steering. Check and lubricate any seacocks the boat has. Double-clamp all hoses, particularly fuel and bilge pump. Check that the flexible fuel hose is ethanol-rated. If not, change it before it deteriorates. After all that's done, and anything else you can think of, enjoy your new boat. Hy

 

[VeroWing]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

:facepalm:

 

[tazrig]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

:facepalm:

:welcome: to boat ownership!!:lol: Here's a couple of things BOAT stands for... Just so you know.

Bankruptcy On A Trailer

Bust Out Another Thousand

and most of importantly....


Best Of All Times

You'll get there... just stay focussed as you have been doing and prioritize what needs doing. And always remember we're here to help if you get stuck.

 

[VeroWing]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

Had some good news today. Remove cockpit deck cover and thoroughly checked out fuel cell, and found it to be in excellent condition both in and out. Removed sender unit and looked inside and it was shiny like new with no pitting. That's a big relief! Going to change out fuel lines now.

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

FWIW............I removed my fuel tank for inspection and found pitting on the bottom of the tank.......decided to replace it as PM.

 

[VeroWing]

Re: Re Commissioning ?

FWIW............I removed my fuel tank for inspection and found pitting on the bottom of the tank.......decided to replace it as PM.

I hear you Tony, but I'm fairly confident this tank won't have any bottom pitting. Compartment was bone dry, no pitting on top, sides, or inside of tank, and absolutely no fumes or smell of fuel. If inside of compartment were wet or damp I would suspect possible pitting on bottom, but I will keep a close eye and a nose on it.

 

[LX Kid]

Re: Re Commissioning ?



I hear you Tony, but I'm fairly confident this tank won't have any bottom pitting. Compartment was bone dry, no pitting on top, sides, or inside of tank, and absolutely no fumes or smell of fuel. If inside of compartment were wet or damp I would suspect possible pitting on bottom, but I will keep a close eye and a nose on it.

Not really the best of ideas but on my '82 I removed both aluminum tanks and had them pressure tested for leaks and repaired. They have been holding for several years now. Always made sure I plugged the two engine compartment tank bay drain so if they leaked would blow me up.