Bayliner with GM Diesel & Bravo 3 Outdrive

[Stephen Tarry]

Hi,
I have a Bayliner 2858 with General Motors 6.5 Diesel engine to a Bravo 111 outdrive, the out-drive has four cables coming from the central area of the out leg inside the hull, I think they are for the indicator on the dashboard, which isn't connected at the moment, does any one have any idea how to Identify them and find out which is which?
The out leg does move from both cockpits, (but with no indication of where it is in the water) on independent switches.
I really want to get the trim tab clock working if possible.

Thanks :facepalm:

Steve

 

[QC]

Re: Bayliner with GM Diesel & Bravo 3 Outdrive

Moved this the Mercruiser section. Was languishing in the Mercury OB category.

 

[alldodge]

Re: Bayliner with GM Diesel & Bravo 3 Outdrive

I'm trying to picture what your looking at but I guess the term "out leg" is got me puzzled.

 

[QC]

Re: Bayliner with GM Diesel & Bravo 3 Outdrive

He means the drive itself. He is talking about the trim gauge I believe. And the trim senders. The four "cables" are probably the harness, the shift and throttle cables and the speedo?

Edit: and/or steering.

 

[alldodge]

Re: Bayliner with GM Diesel & Bravo 3 Outdrive

Thanks that helps,
For your trim gauge look for a Brown/White stripe goes up to the gauge through the engine connector. The Black wire goes to ground inside the harnes connected to the engine ground. At the trim gauge the BRN/WHT wire goes to the gauge. A Purple wire for 12V and a Black for ground also go to the guage.

Some pics could help to see if you need something else or different then I listed.

 

[Stephen Tarry]

Re: Bayliner with GM Diesel & Bravo 3 Outdrive

Hi
Sorry guys I am in the UK and this is my first boat, the Cables are in fact four wires which are a grey back colour and all four are identical. I will get some photos for you to look at asap

 

[achris]

Re: Bayliner with GM Diesel & Bravo 3 Outdrive

The four cables should be 2 pairs. Each pair is connected to the senders on the side of the gimbal ring (the 2 round black plastic things on the outside the boat). One pair is for the trim limit switch, which is the port sender, and the other pair is for the gauge sender, starboard side of the gimbal ring...

If the wires have been split all the way back to the water block :facepalm: then we'll have to be inventive about finding out which is which.

You'll need access to a multimeter. Set it on the ohms scale. With the drive down both pairs should show low resistance.

Scenario #1. You find you 2 pairs, both with low resistance. Mark them as such. Now, with the meter still connected to one pair (doesn't matter which one), start trimming the drive UP. If you have the limit switch pair the resistance will stay low, then jump to open. If you have the gauge sender pair, the resistance will rise slowly.

Scenario #2. You find one pair with low resistance. Again mark this pair, and the other. With the meter on the low resistance pair do the same as scenario #1 to determine which pair you have. The other pair will be the other sender, and it is out of adjustment.

Scenario #3. This is the one I hope you don't get.. If none of the wires show low resistance to any of the others you're going to need to remove one of the senders, I would suggest the port side one (trim limit switch). Just turn the drive slightly to the starboard and remove the 2 small screws holding the sender on and pull the sender off. Now put the meter on any 2 wires, turn the centre section of the sender and see if the meter indicates anything. If it does, you fond that pair. If it doesn't, pick another pair and try again. You may need to try up to 6 combinations to find the pair.... Obviously the other pair are the gauge sender.

HTH,

Chris.....

 

[Stephen Tarry]

Re: Bayliner with GM Diesel & Bravo 3 Outdrive

The four cables should be 2 pairs. Each pair is connected to the senders on the side of the gimbal ring (the 2 round black plastic things on the outside the boat). One pair is for the trim limit switch, which is the port sender, and the other pair is for the gauge sender, starboard side of the gimbal ring...

If the wires have been split all the way back to the water block :facepalm: then we'll have to be inventive about finding out which is which.

You'll need access to a multimeter. Set it on the ohms scale. With the drive down both pairs should show low resistance.

Scenario #1. You find you 2 pairs, both with low resistance. Mark them as such. Now, with the meter still connected to one pair (doesn't matter which one), start trimming the drive UP. If you have the limit switch pair the resistance will stay low, then jump to open. If you have the gauge sender pair, the resistance will rise slowly.

Scenario #2. You find one pair with low resistance. Again mark this pair, and the other. With the meter on the low resistance pair do the same as scenario #1 to determine which pair you have. The other pair will be the other sender, and it is out of adjustment.

Scenario #3. This is the one I hope you don't get.. If none of the wires show low resistance to any of the others you're going to need to remove one of the senders, I would suggest the port side one (trim limit switch). Just turn the drive slightly to the starboard and remove the 2 small screws holding the sender on and pull the sender off. Now put the meter on any 2 wires, turn the centre section of the sender and see if the meter indicates anything. If it does, you fond that pair. If it doesn't, pick another pair and try again. You may need to try up to 6 combinations to find the pair.... Obviously the other pair are the gauge sender.

HTH,

Chris.....

Thanks Chris that solves that problem, will be adding a trim gauge in the future so know I know where it should attach it should be easier to sort.


Steve