StarCraft 1968 Chieftain
120 Mercruiser (not original motor) - can not find a Mercruiser serial # on engine
Numbers stamped near distributor V022800A and 18W296808
Points were replaced with Pertronix, ballast resistor and coil were not replaced
I think it is late 60's early 70's; has ceramic ballast resistors, two of them, back to back
Hi,
I am getting intermittent power to the coil; it will run for 1-4 minutes when first started, then die... When I check for current with a test light prior to first start when cold, I get a bright light on one side of the ballast resistors and a dimmer light on the other side and at positive terminal of coil. I assume that to be correct...After running for a few minutes it dies and I have no current at those three locations. When I try again the next day, current has returned. I have repeated this process three or four days.
If I run a jumper from battery to coil it will run until jumper is removed... I replaced the ignition switch thinking that might be the problem. I removed and tested the resistors and had about 1.5 ohm each, plus I loose power on both sides of them.
This forum has been very helpful in answering many of my questions through searching the archives, and I appreciate the time and effort of the members.
Thanks
120 Mercruiser (not original motor) - can not find a Mercruiser serial # on engine
Numbers stamped near distributor V022800A and 18W296808
Points were replaced with Pertronix, ballast resistor and coil were not replaced
I think it is late 60's early 70's; has ceramic ballast resistors, two of them, back to back
Hi,
I am getting intermittent power to the coil; it will run for 1-4 minutes when first started, then die... When I check for current with a test light prior to first start when cold, I get a bright light on one side of the ballast resistors and a dimmer light on the other side and at positive terminal of coil. I assume that to be correct...After running for a few minutes it dies and I have no current at those three locations. When I try again the next day, current has returned. I have repeated this process three or four days.
If I run a jumper from battery to coil it will run until jumper is removed... I replaced the ignition switch thinking that might be the problem. I removed and tested the resistors and had about 1.5 ohm each, plus I loose power on both sides of them.
This forum has been very helpful in answering many of my questions through searching the archives, and I appreciate the time and effort of the members.
Thanks
