Everyone has to start somewhere. If I pay them to do it I wont know how to do it next time. Why not learn on an old drive like this one? Worst case scenario I gets completely destroyed. I can then buy a used complete drive off of craigs list for anywhere from $200-$800 and be back where I started. It would suck but its unlikely if I take my time and ask questions and understand what im doing.
I agree with the everyone has to start somewhere but a drive unit is not the best starting place.
A tune up is starting somewhere.
Your logic doesn't really make sense about not wanting to spend the extra 235 to make sure the drive is good/sealed and has warranty against leakage but to rather possibly destroy it and pay 400-800 on another used drive?
Just doesn't make sense, good luck though, hope it works out for you.
When I said everyone has to start somewhere i didnt mean with mechanics or boats in general. I meant with this specific drive. As I mentioned I like to learn and I learn by doing. I am no newbie to engines especially when it comes to automotive engines. And even MORE so when its a small block chevy. However this is the first outdrive Ive had the pleasure of getting my hands on. So I am asking questions and taking my time to LEARN how to do the service myself. It also helps with trouble shooting things when theres an issue. Previously I had no idea what the drive consisted of internally. Im beginning to change that as we speak. Now if im out on the water and I hear something I have more knowledge to make an educated guess as to what the issue is. Not just say "ummm i gotta tow this hooptie back to the marina and pay those dudes to fix this..." Thanks for your concern though. As I mentioned worst case scenario is I completely fail and destroy everything associated with this drive. Its an expensive unit, yes. But i doubt it will come to that as long as I take the time to learn. This stuff isnt rocket science. It just takes some knowledge and know how.
Now Im still waiting on the spanner wrench to arrive. I should be able to get it tomorrow morning. I have pulled the bearings back a little from the drive gear. I put a feeler gauge in the gap and its 0.014" on one side and there's a small section where I have to step down to the 0.013" gauge. After pulling the whole bearing package back from the drive gear by about 0.013" the resistance on the bearings seems the same. This kind of makes sense to me as Im pushing both bearings back on the drive gear shaft together. But from what a few people are telling me it should lessen the resistance on the bearings right?
Regarding the torque on the lock nut here I'm getting mixed information. The manual doesn't mention a special torque for used bearings. The section on pre-loading the drive gear and bearings says 6-10 lb. in. Later on when checking the driven gear pre-load with an old drive shaft it gives both specs 6-10lb.in. for new bearings and 2.5-4lb.in for used bearings. I am more inclined to go by the manual and set it 8lb. in. right?
One more question. Ive removed all three of the oil seals. Ive installed the u joint yoke oil seal into the carrier. As for the upper and lower seals (the two smaller ones) the manual mentions to apply loctite 27131 or "type A" to the OD of those two oil seals. Im not sure what type A is. But I have loctite 27121 which is high strength threadlocker. the old oil seals didnt show signs of loctite. Does anybody else use loctite on these? If so what kind? The quicksilver stuff?
EDIT: I looked up the difference between the 27121 and 27131 one is a 10ml bottle and the other is a 50ml bottle. Im not sure why they didnt just put down loctite 271 which indicates the type and doesn't include container. Im still curious to hear from you guys if you use the loctite or not.
