wayfarupnorth
Recruit
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2012
- Messages
- 2
I was reading http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=553627 "Bad fuse on solenoid?" My 2010 Bayliner 185 BR with a 3.0 L Mercruiser has a related problem.
Here's the fuse
.
My fuse isn't blown. All the bolts seem tight, but it has a tiny bit of play - less than 1 mm. I'm able to pull the white cube up and down just that tiny bit.
When it's down, I have no power at the ignition switch. It acts like an ignition disconnect. Guages and low-oil-pressure warning are dead and no starter cranking. Everything else works, trim/tilt, horn, blower, radio, lights, bilge pump. But if I pull the white cube on the fuse up, everything works.
Here's my question:
Is the fuse made like this, can it be tightened so it doesn't "click" up and down any more, or do I need to replace the fuse?
I've seen postings from others with dead ignition switches, so I'll go into a bit more detail in case it helps anybody. It took me a long time to figure this out. I'd suddenly find myself with no starting, then mess around with everything I could find: breaker on top of motor, starter wires, battery connection, ignition key switch, under-dash and in-line fuses, try to trace tangled wires. Never did have a multimeter along when I had the problem, and it never malfunctioned at home on the trailer. I was mislead for a while, because by tripping the breaker on top of the engine, I could duplicate the problem when my ignition was working, but when it wasn't working, resetting the breaker did nothing to fix it.
Yesterday (only stuck a half mile from the dock) I finally had my wife keep turning the key on and off after I tightened the nuts on the starter wire. Nothing. But when I pulled up on the fuse the warning horn suddenly sounded. Pushed it down, it shut off. Cycled it a few times to make sure that was it, and went boating comfortably the rest of the afternoon. Now I know what's wrong and have a reliable temporary fix, but I want a more durable solution.
Here's the fuse
. My fuse isn't blown. All the bolts seem tight, but it has a tiny bit of play - less than 1 mm. I'm able to pull the white cube up and down just that tiny bit.
When it's down, I have no power at the ignition switch. It acts like an ignition disconnect. Guages and low-oil-pressure warning are dead and no starter cranking. Everything else works, trim/tilt, horn, blower, radio, lights, bilge pump. But if I pull the white cube on the fuse up, everything works.
Here's my question:
Is the fuse made like this, can it be tightened so it doesn't "click" up and down any more, or do I need to replace the fuse?
I've seen postings from others with dead ignition switches, so I'll go into a bit more detail in case it helps anybody. It took me a long time to figure this out. I'd suddenly find myself with no starting, then mess around with everything I could find: breaker on top of motor, starter wires, battery connection, ignition key switch, under-dash and in-line fuses, try to trace tangled wires. Never did have a multimeter along when I had the problem, and it never malfunctioned at home on the trailer. I was mislead for a while, because by tripping the breaker on top of the engine, I could duplicate the problem when my ignition was working, but when it wasn't working, resetting the breaker did nothing to fix it.
Yesterday (only stuck a half mile from the dock) I finally had my wife keep turning the key on and off after I tightened the nuts on the starter wire. Nothing. But when I pulled up on the fuse the warning horn suddenly sounded. Pushed it down, it shut off. Cycled it a few times to make sure that was it, and went boating comfortably the rest of the afternoon. Now I know what's wrong and have a reliable temporary fix, but I want a more durable solution.
