trim limit switch install

natsgrampy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
172
I have the outdrive off my 89 3.0 mercruiser and noticed one of the switches/ sensors is cracked. I have ordered a new set and awaiting delivery. The switch /sensor which has "port" imbedded in it is currently installed, upside down, on the starboard side. The starboad switch / sensor, is on port side, upside down also. I am not sure why these were installed the way they were as I got this boat last year and this is how it was.

The trim worked fine before, so I don't know if the switch was cracked before, or something I did when pulling off the drive and bellows.

When I install the new ones, I am planning to put them in the proper place, port on port side etc. Or, should I keep with how the current ones are installed?
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: trim limit switch install

Which bellows did you replace? Couldn't have been the ujoint bellows.

Here are the installation instructions that comes with a new set of the OEM kit. They do need to be in the right place and adjusted properly to work.
I would bet they didn't work and the person putting them back on just didn't really care.

View attachment Trim limit switch install instructions.pdf
 

natsgrampy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
172
Re: trim limit switch install

I am in the process of replacing the shift cable and bellows and the u-joint bellows.
Not finished yet, been raining here for 4 days.
 

natsgrampy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
172
Re: trim limit switch install

Trying to remove the old trim limit switch and sensor and running into a little roadblock. I looked at the directions here and the directions contained in the box with the new units. All the instructions state to remove 1 bolt holding down the retainer. There are 2 bolts holding down the retainer for the wires. The bottom bolt was easy to remove. The top bolt seems to be unreachable, I have the bell housing completely removed. The gimbal ring is still attached. Is there a special tool used to reach this bolt. I would rather not remove the gimbal ring. I have tried turning the ring all the way to each side and straight. Just can't reach it.

Any help would be appreciated, as, once this is done all the new stuff I am replacing is ready to be put back on.

Thanks again for the tremendous help to this point!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Last edited:

Josh P

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 26, 2009
Messages
328
Re: trim limit switch install

i just did mine..i used a ujoint socket and an extension.. mine was on a 76 and my bolts came out easy.. my wires how ever were completely deterioated..
 

natsgrampy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 31, 2010
Messages
172
Re: trim limit switch install

Thanks Josh, does that top bolt need to be placed back in or will everything work safely without it? Were you able to get yous back in? I am going to try the ujoint socket and also an offset wrench. Hope to have it done today before the rain.
 

antsmands

Seaman
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
58
Re: trim limit switch install

Just replace my and left top bolt out. No way in hell to get it back in! This is the info from the eariler thread on this topic I replies in:

Re: Trim switch won't work but Trailer does

It is really not that hard to change out the trim sender and limit switches, once you get the bolt or (bolts in my case) out of the retainer bracket. The wiring and set up of the new switches is straight forward once you get the old ones out. I found it relatively easy to remove the bottom retainer with a 1/4 six inch wobble extension and a 7/16 socket. I caught absolute hell getting the top retaining bolt out of that retainer. I had to use a 7/16 offest boxed in wrench and hours on time to get that bolt out a millimeter at a time until I got it loose enouh to spin it out the final turns it my finger and finally a screw driver. After that is was relatively easy to get the new wire ran and conneted, I did run into a little hassle lining up the retainer and bottom retainer bolt but got it in with a little persistence. I left the top one out until I do a full bellow job next spring, no way to get it back in without taking everything apart. Getting the swithces adjusted was a snap. I am glad it took the time to replace the switches and spend a $100.00 or so bucks and a few hours vs taking the risk of killing the drive and spending thousands on repairs.
 

natsgrampy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
172
Re: trim limit switch install

Picked up an offset boxed wrench and still can't get a grip on the top bolt. gonna pick up a 7/16 ujoint socket and give that a shot. If that still doesn't work any suggestions perhaps leaving existing wires and splicing the new switches in. Somewhere I read this can be done using JB weld? and marine shrink connections.
 

Josh P

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Messages
328
Re: trim limit switch install

Ok on mine i had all my bellows out, and bell housing off. i used a 1/4 drive 11mm socket.. the metric just seemed tighter on the bolt. I also got mine back in with my fingers and slowly started to thread it in with 2 8 inch extensions and a 1/4 drive rachet. the bottom is the easy one.. i also put some anti seize on bolts just in case. i would recommend doing it right..my wires were ok on the outside but complete gone on the inside.. like no insulation and the copper wire was half gone.

i used this with extensions
images1.jpg


Not this
90025.jpg
 

tjb1231

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 10, 2012
Messages
32
Re: trim limit switch install

Cut the offset wrench short enough it clears the gimball bearing ring. It will be around 3" when you cut it. It worked perfectly for me after 2 days of fighting.
 
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