'82 Grady White I/O Electrical/Engine problem.

LX Kid

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Got out on the water, decided to try another spot, tried starting and "no power!" Battery cable tight and then found that the thermal switch had faulted. Reset thermal switch and started just fine. (Had to reset several times during the morning of fishing.) Noticed the amp meter showing a charge of 16volts and the tack pegged and quit working at max deflection so I pulled wires on tach but it still pegged and suspect burned out. Headed back to the ramp and engine spit, sputter and all guages jumping. Pulled positive cable off battery, to see if alternater was the problem and no change in the symtoms. Anyone have any idea about the electrical problem? Thanks
 

NYBo

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Re: '82 Grady White I/O Electrical/Engine problem.

Thermal switch? Do you mean circuit breaker?

If your voltage regulator wasn't bad already, pulling the positive battery cable with the engine running may have done it in.:facepalm:
This all might have started with a bad connection on the negative side, or a failing ignition switch.
 

LX Kid

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Re: '82 Grady White I/O Electrical/Engine problem.

Thermal switch? Do you mean circuit breaker?

I guess a circuit breaker, mounted on engine left rear, might be a better description.
 

LX Kid

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Re: '82 Grady White I/O Electrical/Engine problem.

Found it! (I hope.) Loose wire in the ring connector which attaches to the battery positive post as well as loose nuts on the amp meter. Hope to try it out on the water today if the weather will hold out.
 

LX Kid

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Re: '82 Grady White I/O Electrical/Engine problem.

Found it! (I hope.) Loose wire in the ring connector which attaches to the battery positive post as well as loose nuts on the amp meter. Hope to try it out on the water today if the weather will hold out.

Nope! That wasn't it! Got two-hundred yards from the ramp and "dead in the water!" Towed back to ramp and went home with my tail between my legs. Little more checking and found that when I wiggle the wiring harness going down to the starter it would run and then die when I let go of the key for starter activation. Gotta check the wiring out on the starter solenoid when I get a chance.
 

Don S

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Re: '82 Grady White I/O Electrical/Engine problem.

Get the alternator fixed. At 16+ volts, you're burning stuff up.
 

LX Kid

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Re: '82 Grady White I/O Electrical/Engine problem.

Get the alternator fixed. At 16+ volts, you're burning stuff up.

Already checked output of alternator with my voltmeter. It's charging my new batteries normal. I had two batteries that had dead cells in them. It was running great in the yard, with hose attached, for about thirty minutes with no sign of any problem. Keep everyone updated with my findings.
 

LX Kid

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Well it's only been "16 months" of my Grady sitting in the yard due to my frustration of fixing my electrical problem coupled with getting my outdrive back on the boat. Yesterday I finally put outdrive, with new pump kit, back on with the help of a new friend that pushed me to get-r-done! (That's another story!) Not getting voltage to the ignition switch. Used my test meter and to check voltages at different places on the fuse block. (What an inconvenient place for a fuse block.) The fuse block was dropping voltages due to a lot of corrosion from sitting out in the yard and not being maintained in awhile. Removed block and used a dremel with a small wire wheel to clean each individual fuse holder and treated treated everything with contact cleaner/lubricant. Going to replace all the various wires with new female spade connectors as they look pretty bad also. If possible, depending on wire lengths I will reposition the fuse block in a more convenient place. I've really neglected the Grady the last year or more. Post a couple of pics later today.
 
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FreeBeeTony

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Hey LX.........long time no hear!
I just replaced my fuse block also..........good luck!
 

Silvertip

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The fuse block is NOT the reason you have no power to the ignition. Why? Because there are two totally separate electrical systems on a boat. 1) the "boat" harness which feeds the fuse panel at the helm with a pair (positive & negative) of wires directly from the battery. That system powers the accessories on your boat except for the instruments. 2) The engine harness is fed by the large battery cables and a set of wires running from the engine to the control box and then to the instruments and ignition switch. If you have power to other accessories but not the engine then check the large battery connections (both ends of the cables). It does no good to clean and tighten one end and not the other. Once that's done, then follow the juice from the engine to the helm and back to the starter.
 

FreeBeeTony

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Silvertip is correct, the fuse block has nothing to do with the ignition.
Should have mentioned that when I said hello!
 

LX Kid

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Thanks guys for the tips. I have had a lot of problems, for quite a while, with fuses not making contact and have a lot of "scabbed" on wires that went nowhere. Lots of questionable male/female connectors being corroded or rusted in both the helm area as well as the engine compartment. Way past time to take care of them. I relocated the fuse panel to the bulk head instead of up under the helm. When finished I'll make a cover to go over the fuse panel to protest it from sea spray, rain etc.
 

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LX Kid

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Question? There are two heavy gauge wires under the left side of the helm that I don't remember removing and don't appear, (maybe), they were reaching the fuse panel. They "seem" to disappear over the cuddy cabin door. Too heavy to be going to the aerator. Can someone clue me in? Thanks
 
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LX Kid

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Hey LX.........long time no hear!
I just replaced my fuse block also..........good luck!

Hey Tony! Yes your correct about being long time. Just been so frustrated with my Grady I just let it sit for the last 16 months. Got a little inspiration lately to get back on the water again. After all it only takes "lots of money" to be thrown at it! LoL
 

LX Kid

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Re: '82 Grady White I/O Electrical/Engine problem.

Already checked output of alternator with my voltmeter. It's charging my new batteries normal. I had two batteries that had dead cells in them. It was running great in the yard, with hose attached, for about thirty minutes with no sign of any problem. Keep everyone updated with my findings.

WOW! I didn't realize it's already been "3 YEARS" since I had it in the water last time and developed these problems!!! How time flys! Gotta get this baby back in the water with a for sale sign or trade for bay boat. I'm afraid I'll have to have a Viking Burial at sea with all the money I've poured into her. You know Vikings put your dead body in the boat, set it on fire and let the sails take it out to sea!

My son at the helm!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw77HOpkJzg
 
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LX Kid

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Finished wiring the fuse panel. Everything works except starting from the key. Got pretty hot so I'll start checking that out later this afternoon. Still have to work on the connectors in the engine compartment. Burnished the points and they have not pitting. Cleaned inside the distributor cap and was almost new condition. Jumped across the starter relay, after priming with fresh gas, and she starts right up. I'm suspecting the rusty connection of the relay and or a bad ignition switch. Looks like the original key switch. Left the gas selector valve off until I can check gas in the tanks to make sure it's alright.

Side note: I'm guessing the two wire I inquired about earlier are the pos/neg dual wiring that was mentioned earlier. I also hooked them into the fuse panel.
 
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dingbat

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LX Kid

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Go here and down load the 1984 owners manual. Contain complete wiring diagrams for you boat. Don't worry about not being the correct year. Grady made very little if any changes from years to years in that time frame.
http://www.gradywhite.com/the-grady-...wners-manuals/

Thanks! That's exactly what I'll need for tomorrow "if it doesn't rain." Found a blown fuse under the instrument panel and "thought" that was it! Wrong! I can make the engine run by jumping the starter relay but not from the key switch. I removed the switch and ohmed it out and it's fine and I'm getting voltage to it. Gotta find someone to turn the start switch so I can see if control voltage is at the starter relay. I'm also suspecting the neutral safety switches be bad. Lot's of bad connection in the engine compartment to be cleaned and checked.
 
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Bt Doctur

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from the key switch, follow the yellow wires . the start circuit goes into the control box and exits and is connected to the yellow W/ a red stripe in the harness.that goes to the slave solenoid small lug. there should also be a black ground wire on the other small lug.
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LX Kid

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I found that the starter relay won't engage even when I put a positive voltage on the "I" terminal to see if the relay would "click" or make a noise. I can start engine by jumping the two larger terminals however.
 
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