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Bravo III freshwater flushing

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  • Bravo III freshwater flushing

    Moving up to a bigger boat that has the B3 outdrive instead of the Alpha that I have today. Dealer is putting a flush kit on the boat, and he told me to pull the boat out of the water, hook up the hose and turn on the water, then start the engine and let it run for a few minutes to flush the engine.

    With the flush on the Alpha, it was done out of the water, but was always done with the boat off. Does this sound right with the Bravo setup (I know the water pump isn't in the drive, so does that account for the difference)? Any problem with pushing SaltAway through the engine like this when it's running? Is the flush port on a Bravo just functionally equivalent to putting muffs on the drive? And finally, are there any concerns with this setup (like running the water before the engine is started, am I going to hurt anything)?

    Thanks!


  • #2
    Re: Bravo III freshwater flushing

    With the Alpha, you would have had to hook water to the outdrive with muffs to flush it running or you would burn up the impeller.
    If you were flushing without running, you were not flushing the engine, just the exhaust. Without the engine running and warm, the thermostat will not open and water will not circulate through the engine.


    And finally, are there any concerns with this setup (like running the water before the engine is started, am I going to hurt anything)?
    Depends on how, where the flusher was installed, and what kind it was. In general, you want water to the impeller immediately, not after it runs for a minute and you get to the water.
    Don S.

    sigpic

    Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
    That is what the forums are for.
    Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

    Comment



    • #3
      Re: Bravo III freshwater flushing

      Don,

      What's the typical setup for a B3 outdrive (5.7MPI engine) flush? Or, if there's no "typical", what can I look at to see how the boat should be flushed? Sounds like you're saying the same thing the dealer did, run the engine with the flush going on the B3. Is there any concern with running the flush before starting the engine (can the flush force water places it does not belong)? Or, is it as simple as, pull the boat out of the water, hook up the flush hose, turn on the water, turn on the engine and let it run for a few mins? Any problem sending Salt Away though the engine using a system like this?

      Comment



      • #4
        Re: Bravo III freshwater flushing

        On my 2001 270 Sundancer that has a 7.4mpi and B3, the previous/original owner kept it in a slip and had installed a 'T' fitting on the input hose in the bilge leading to the water pump that is on the front of the engine. The other end of the hose at the 'T' fitting has a water nipple (I was told that's what it is called) attached to it and that nipple unit is secured onto one of the bolts for the exhaust riser. This nipple only allows water to enter the system, no air. I bought a trailer when I purchased the boat and my procedure to flush with muffs if it's been out of the water more than a few hours is to attach a water hose to the nipple and turn on the hose only about 10-12 seconds until water is seen coming out at the transom. I then move the water hose to the muffs and then start the engine and run as normal to flush. This accomplishes what Don S mentioned about having as little time as possible without water to the pump since I "pre-loaded" the system with water at the nipple. My boat is used in salt water only so I do use Salt Away from time to time and have seen no issues.
        Mark
        Buy any boat and become a BOATER
        Then open threads that start:
        My boat is a ___and I need help with __
        My engine is a __and I need help with __
        My outdrive is a __and I need help with __
        Buying non-OEM: shop here on IBOATS

        -2nd round:
        2001 SeaRay270 Sundancer 7.4mpi (0m022102) B3 (sn ?, 2.0)-current
        2005 Maxum 1900sr3 4.3mpi A1G2(sold)
        -1st round in the 80's:
        198x Sea Ray 210 cuddy 260hp Merc A1
        1983 Bayliner 1600 Capri bowrider 75 Force
        14 foot w/outboard
        15 foot w/outboard

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        • #5
          Re: Bravo III freshwater flushing

          What's the typical setup for a B3 outdrive (5.7MPI engine) flush? Or, if there's no "typical", what can I look at to see how the boat should be flushed? Sounds like you're saying the same thing the dealer did, run the engine with the flush going on the B3.
          Most people just hook up muffs on the outdrive and run the engine and flush it, assuming you are picking up water through the drive.


          Is there any concern with running the flush before starting the engine (can the flush force water places it does not belong)?
          No, not really, the flushing attachments normally are installed between the raw water pump and the connection where the water comes in from the drive. If the engine isn't running, it the water just goes out the drive. When you start the engine, the water is pulled into the pump.

          Or, is it as simple as, pull the boat out of the water, hook up the flush hose, turn on the water, turn on the engine and let it run for a few mins? Any problem sending Salt Away though the engine using a system like this?
          That's all their is to it. If you want to use salt away, just hook up their mixing unit to the flusher but don't turn the salt away on until the engine reaches operating temp. Then you know you have it in the engine too. Run the engine around 1200 rpm, it keeps the temp up better.
          Don S.

          sigpic

          Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
          That is what the forums are for.
          Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

          Comment

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