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Inboard outboard boot replacement question..

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  • Inboard outboard boot replacement question..

    I am new to this, so my terminology will be wrong. I have a 2000 Searay express cruiser with a mercrusier inboard outboard, and volvo stern drive unit. I noticed that the three hoses or outdrive boots were starting to dry out and show small cracks. I decided to have them replaced. They still were secure, flexible, and worked great with no leaks. I think the big boot is the exhaust, and the smaller 2 are transmission cables and steering?

    I returned to pick up my boat after a $800.00 bill, and when I raised the stern drive, the new big exhaust boot was not connected to the stern drive unit. When I raise the stern drive, the exhaust boot just hangs into mid air off the back of the boat. The repair guy said no problem. Just lower the drive, and the exhaust boot will self seal onto the stern drive. He said he could not connect the new boot securely to the rear of the boat due to corrosion on the flange or something? If he connected the hose securely to the stern drive, it would pull the hose of the boat when it is raised, due to the poor connection to the boat. Does this make any sense? Is it really ok to operate like this? He also removed one way check valves in the two exhaust manifolds that had come loose or deformed. He said that the were not needed because water cannnot travel up to the high placement risers. Should I be concerned? I also did not winterize yet. Would the block or manifold be more suseptible to freezing with this boot open and exposed to the elements?

    Any sugestions? I hate thinks not being right. I may not know anything about boats, but I know something does not sound right.

    Thanks
    Learpilot2


  • #2
    Re: Inboard outboard boot replacement question..

    Seriously? Take it back to the shop.
    sigpic
    85 Chevy C10
    89 Cheetah 210ES Cuddy

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    • #3
      Re: Inboard outboard boot replacement question..

      Something wrong here, merc with volvo? Most likely someone has changed out the drive or motor in your boat. It most likely has a chevy motor. And I would find a differant shop. And YES it needs to be winterised if its freezing temps. I would not have paid any money to someone not doing the job right, all hoses should be on, and tight. Sounds like theres more to this, then what hes telling you.
      1987 16Ft F/S Yar-Craft
      1987, 90HP Johnson/ (3) 1971-1972, 7.5HP Merc/ 1991, 4HP Mariner/1985, 2.2HP Merc (new never started)

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      • #4
        Re: Inboard outboard boot replacement question..

        Without knowing what engine and drive you have, it's almost impossible to answer your questions. But in 2000, SeaRay was only using Mercruiser. From the sounds of things, you have an exhaust TUBE on an Alpha outdrive, and not the bellows. If that is the case, you can not attach the tube to the drive

        Here is a picture of each. Which do you actually have?
        Attached Files
        Don S.

        sigpic

        Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
        That is what the forums are for.
        Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

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        • #5
          Re: Inboard outboard boot replacement question..

          There are some Merc exhaust boots that only connect to the engine side. ( Thru Hull Exhaust) It will not hurt anything. I have seen alot of these. Corrosion has nothing to do with it.It is the way the boot is made. You will notice the sound to be a little noiser when on plane versus when your outdrive is trimmed down.
          My friend has a Silverton with Merc i/o's and his is the same way.
          Assault Squadron NINE
          River Assault Division NINETY-ONE-1966

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          • #6
            Re: Inboard outboard boot replacement question..

            I have the bellows, not the tube. I think it should be clamped at both ends.

            Comment



            • #7
              Re: Inboard outboard boot replacement question..

              Originally posted by Learpilot2 View Post
              I have the bellows, not the tube. I think it should be clamped at both ends.
              Ayuh,... We still have this bit of WHAT, Exactly do you have,..??
              Besides a Frankenboat...
              with a mercrusier inboard outboard, and volvo stern drive unit.
              ?????? Which is it,..??
              Any Grease is Better,..... Than No Grease at All.......

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              • #8
                Re: Inboard outboard boot replacement question..

                I would say he probably has a Mercruiser unit--completely.

                No, it's not right to have the exhaust bellows hanging. There is a special tool that helps in tightening the clamp holding the bellows on. You've also got to make sure Mercruiser Bellows sealant is used--a greasy tube of sealant. I've never been very successful getting them to seal properly--thus leaving this job to a real professional that deals with bellows all the time.

                Some clown at Mercruiser must laugh at night knowing he engineered their bellows system--and didn't include a lip that you could clamp the bellows down on. If one of the bellows rips, it can drip, drip drip water into your hull, and the boat will sink. I'm a victim of the "sinking by bellows."

                Inboard Outboards run great when new, but when the bellows' start weathering, they're a pain. You should always keep'em in down position anytime you're not trailering the boat. These engines virtually never wear out--they just get frozen or deteriorate from sea water rusting them. Most replacement engines were not drained for the winter.

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                • #9
                  Re: Inboard outboard boot replacement question..

                  The drive bellows flanges have an inset bead that the bellows seat in and uses bellows cement.
                  The exhaust may have either as there is little chance of enough water intrusion through the exhaust to sink the boat and NO it does not require bellows adheasive. In fact it doesn't need to be there at all. The bellows is the quietest option and needs to be hooked at both ends no glue needed. The other option is an exhaust tube which only attaches to the transom end. The drive tucks inside it when down.
                  It can be slightly louder on plane.

                  Of course this is assuming it is a MC and not the mutant you tried to describe.

                  When in doubt..Send Pictures!
                  When will people learn that impellers require regular
                  replacement and are not drive it till it pukes items?

                  1984 Regal Medallion 195
                  3.8 V-6 with the dreaded
                  OMC Stringer Drive.
                  2003 Avalanche w/Hypertech

                  If it ain't fixable - don't break it!

                  Comment



                  • #10
                    Sign up today
                    Re: Inboard outboard boot replacement question..

                    Originally posted by Learpilot2 View Post
                    I am new to this, so my terminology will be wrong. I have a 2000 Searay express cruiser with a mercrusier inboard outboard, and volvo stern drive unit. I noticed that the three hoses or outdrive boots were starting to dry out and show small cracks. I decided to have them replaced. They still were secure, flexible, and worked great with no leaks. I think the big boot is the exhaust, and the smaller 2 are transmission cables and steering?

                    I returned to pick up my boat after a $800.00 bill, and when I raised the stern drive, the new big exhaust boot was not connected to the stern drive unit. When I raise the stern drive, the exhaust boot just hangs into mid air off the back of the boat. The repair guy said no problem. Just lower the drive, and the exhaust boot will self seal onto the stern drive. He said he could not connect the new boot securely to the rear of the boat due to corrosion on the flange or something? If he connected the hose securely to the stern drive, it would pull the hose of the boat when it is raised, due to the poor connection to the boat. Does this make any sense? Is it really ok to operate like this? He also removed one way check valves in the two exhaust manifolds that had come loose or deformed. He said that the were not needed because water cannnot travel up to the high placement risers. Should I be concerned? I also did not winterize yet. Would the block or manifold be more suseptible to freezing with this boot open and exposed to the elements?

                    Any sugestions? I hate thinks not being right. I may not know anything about boats, but I know something does not sound right.

                    Thanks
                    Learpilot2
                    I think we need to know what drive you have along with which transom. If you have a volvo drive its likely that you have a sx family drive. If you have the sx-mhp transom they have an exhaust tube that only connects to the transom and does not clamp to the drive, similar to the alpha units that have the exhaust tube. Pm me, I have a .pdf volvo workshop manual for the sx drives if you do happen to have that drive and lack supporting literature.

                    Hope this helps,
                    Mike

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