• If this is your first visit to the iboats.com Boating Forums, be sure to check out the FAQ. To post a question or comment, begin by signing up. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.


Announcement

Announcement Module
Collapse

Help Tip: If you have a question that has not been answered to your satisfaction in the archives, it is always best to start a new thread of your own. By starting your own thread, you will receive the maximum number of views by forum members.

Below are some additional forum policies in hopes of all iboats members will follow, Thank you.

1. Please do not reply to old topics or hijack existing topics. Old topics of a technical nature are like a library book, Please do not write in them.

2. Old topics should be considered archives and used for reference only. Please do not reply to them.

3. Do not take over someone elseís topic (aka hijack) with your own question, even if it is similar. If you have a question that has not been covered to your satisfaction in the archives, it is always best to start a new topic of your own.

4. If you have a question for the original poster (OP) and the topic is over 30 days old, send the OP a PM, he may not even visit the forums any longer, or may not notice your question in the old topic.

5. By starting your own topic, you will receive the maximum number of views by forum helpers that may not even notice your question when itís posted at the end of someone elseís topic. And those answers will be specific to your particular issue.

6. Please do not post to topics that have been inactive for more than 3 months unless you are the original poster. We have very active forums and any topic that remains inactive for that long should be considered "dead". It is especially confusing when there is an entirely new question posted to an old topic.

7. Posting at the end of any topic is considered to be hijacking the original posters topic which in turn subjects the topic to be closed if it continues to happen thus not making it fair to the original poster in the future had for some reason he/she needed to return for additional information or provide an update of the problem solved which is always welcomed within a reasonable amount of time frame.

8. Please note that you should see a red banner pop up near the bottom of each inactive topic asking you not to reply to old topics. The Red banner will read: Please note this topic has been inactive for 90 days. For the best results, please start a new topic.

Thank you all in advance for doing your part in helping iboats run a smooth ship.

Additional forum rules linked below.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum-rules-guidelines-405/
See more
See less

Neutral Safety Switch problems

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts


  • Neutral Safety Switch problems

    This is going to be a rough one unless we know what kind of controller and the model number that you have.Many of the boat manufacturers don't use the Mercruiser unit, but something else.If you don't have any information on it, can you post a picture of it?There is really no "Here's how you adjust a neutral safety switch" that fits all the different shifter/controllers.
    Don S.

    sigpic

    Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
    That is what the forums are for.
    Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.


  • #2
    Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

    Damn.....That didn't take long Let me see if I can find some pictures of how to fix it.
    Don S.

    sigpic

    Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
    That is what the forums are for.
    Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

    Comment



    • #3
      Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

      There isn't really any adjustment on that type shifter, the switch is inside the assembly (See picture below)and is number 5. Check that both wires are hooked up with solid clean terminals, but it sounds like the switch is either sticking or broken. If there is a lot of grease on the switch and the weather is cold, that may be the problem. Clean the grease off from around the switch and see if it works. If the switch itself is sticking and you can hear, feel and see it stick, it's time to replace it.
      Don S.

      sigpic

      Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
      That is what the forums are for.
      Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

      Comment



      • #4
        Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

        If you can hear the starter 'hit'--- the Neut. Safety switch if fine. It disconnects the ability for the starter circut to be energized unless it thinks its in neutral. If the starter hits-- the siwtch is doing what it's supposed to.If the starter 'clicks' but won't start, you have another problem. If I had to guess, I'd think it was the battery or its connections. If the boat wasn't so new, you might check the starter motor. Being so new- I'd look at that last.

        Comment



        • #5
          Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

          Good point Winger, I sure missed that If the starter solenoid or slave solenoid is clicking, there is nothing wrong with the neutral safety switch.
          Don S.

          sigpic

          Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
          That is what the forums are for.
          Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

          Comment



          • #6
            Neutral Safety Switch problems

            I think my signature includes this, but, just in case: I have a 2003 Odyssey Lextra with a Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI I/O Alpha one outdrive.For a good time period, my motor has been difficult to start, Especially when Cold. I'd have to move the Shifter back and forth some to find that "Just right" position for the starter to kick in. I went out to start my motor this evening, and run some fresh water through it, let the motor run some, before draining the water out of the block. Well, I just was unable to find that "Just right" position. I'd turn on the key and get the Starter click, but the motor would not turn over. All fluid levels checked OK. I finally was able to figure out how to remove the cover over the shifter, but didn't see any type of adjustment screw to set "the Neutral Safety Switch?" In the past, sometimes I'd have to shift the gear forwards/backwards a time or two, then push in the Neutral button push the throttle forward to idle it up, and it would start. No go this time. Any suggestions on getting this Adjustment right? When I removed the cover they had some linkage, with a Ball bearing that would pop in and out as you moved the shifter forwards backwards.

            Comment



            • #7
              Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

              Sorry if this is the wrong place for this topic, I'm adding a photo of my type of shifter if it will help.

              Comment



              • #8
                Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

                Sounds like some troubleshooting is in order. The safety switch might be alright, however if the switch contacts aren't making a solid connection (corrosion, arcing, etc.) it might not be holding the solenoid closed, just a brief "click". I would suggest putting a tester on the slave solenoid coil connections and make sure that it is energized as long as the key is held to "start"Of course the other test (with the ignition OFF) is to take a resistance reading across the neutral switch,it should be less than a few ohms.I only bring this up because of the difficulty he has had with the switch in the past.

                Comment



                • #9
                  Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

                  Thanks Don, Winger, and Water, I too think something is out of line, or out of adjustment. Because you have to find that just right spot to turn the key and get the "Hit" or Click of the starter. In the past I'd get a few clicks when it was cold (or the first start of the day) as it was warmer it would start easier, but every now and then you'd still have to try a time or two to find that spot. I've learned to say, it can't be the Battery or connections, from experience. Connections can be finiky. I do have the on board battery charger, and the Alt gauge is showing good enough. But I'll heed the suggestions and check the connections better. Question: I wouldn't be hurting anything, to try to start the motor with the On board charger plugged in would I? I have not ever done that but was wondering? Anyway, I plugged it in this evening, will check the connections, and will leave it charging all night, and try again tomorrow.

                  Comment



                  • #10
                    Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

                    I don't know what charger you have, but generally it shouldn't be a problem. Most chargers have over-current protection that will momentarily shut off the charger if there is too much of a current draw (very discharged battery).

                    Comment



                    • #11
                      Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

                      It's real easy to check for neutral safety switch porblems, just hook the two yellow w/red stripe wires that go to the NS switch together and bypass the neutral safety switch altogether. Then it should crank the engine (not just click) every time the ignition switch is turned to the start position. If it now clicks each time but doesn't crank the starter, you have a problem in the start system also.
                      Don S.

                      sigpic

                      Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
                      That is what the forums are for.
                      Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

                      Comment



                      • #12
                        Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

                        if the shifter isn't in neutral the starter won't energize. if it clicks and engine won't turn over sounds like an electrical problem. clean battery terminals and any other connections between starter and solenoid. if your using wing nuts on battery replace with stainless nylon stop nuts and washers and tighten down good. also check solenoids.

                        Comment



                        • #13
                          Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

                          Originally posted by Don S: solenoid is clicking, there is nothing wrong with the neutral safety switch.
                          There's pro. mechanics around here that probably see 3 of them a week go bad, but of all the boats I've ever had or been around, even 30-odd year old stuff, I've never seen a Neut. Safety switch go out.I always take the prop off first when playing around back there on a O/B or if someone might walk up on me while I'm working on a I/O, but trying to crank it a few times with a mechanic's clip on remote starter switch should tell alot too.

                          Comment



                          • #14
                            Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

                            hello its rare to see the safty switch fail, unless its been sunk. but not at all rare to see the slave solinoid fail on a mercruiser. do as don said. test the switch and test for 12v at the slave solinoid. also test the solinoid ground. seems some of them used a push on connector rather than a nut. most the symptoms of a bad slave is you have to make it click several times before it works.
                            no tech questions by PM, they wont get answered.
                            you have to be trusted by the people that you lie to .

                            Comment



                            • #15
                              Re: Neutral Safety Switch problems

                              hello another quick slave solinoid test is to use a jumper from the small yellow/red wire to the large yelow/red wire on the slave solinoid and try it again. if it works odds are the solinoid or its ground is bad
                              no tech questions by PM, they wont get answered.
                              you have to be trusted by the people that you lie to .

                              Comment


                              Working...
                              X