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where to start? water in oil

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  • where to start? water in oil

    We have an '89 Bayliner with a Ford 2.3 liter OMC Cobra I/O. My husband is a fairly handy mechanic (home/ranch vehicles & machinery) but this type of engine is unfamiliar to him. Water is in the oil. Where to start? No visible cracks in the block, but could it be cracked inside? Other than that he mentioned the head gasket. We're only miles from the reservoir but we're many hours from a boat repair to have them check it. I'm worried about bringing it in and having it cost more than the boat is worth. We're having a family reunion in 4 weeks and hope to have it running again, but money is tight so I don't know if that's even possible. Any advice at all is very welcome, including places where we might get a rebuilt model like this online. Depending on the price, I'm wondering if that might be the most cost effective in the long run or if I should start by ordering a manual and possible parts or suck it up and bring it in to the repair shop. We're almost done reupholstering the boat, so I'm hoping there's a solution here somewhere. Model No. --- Ser. No.232BMRMEF --- T1143364Model No. --- Ser. No.985683 ------ T0659234Also, why are there two different model and serial numbers on it. Looks like original tag with both sets of numbers on it.Linda

  • #2
    Re: where to start? water in oil

    Learn to study your cooling system. Anyway change your head gasket and magnaflux your cylinder head for possible crack, check or change the manifoldand risers and lastly to be consider is crack on your engine block.


    • #3
      Re: where to start? water in oil

      The engine is a car engine with marine exhaust system and marinised parts. It should not pose any problems.A few places where water can get to the oil.1. Leaking exhaust manifolds - highest incidence - mainly due to corrosion. If you have closed cooling then this is not a high occurrence item - water leaks into exhaust area and enters cylinders2. Leaking exhaust risers - same as manifolds. - same as for exhauts manifolds.3. Warped head - check flatness4. Blown head gasket.5. Cracked head - you need to magnaflux this - one alternative suggested is to fill the water jacket in the removed head with gas, water doesn't work. Just have to be careful of the fire hazard.6. Cracked main engine block - most costly, not a high occurrence itemIsolating the leak is a bit of a challenge. Quick and dirty is to remove and leak test everything and skim the cylinder head. Gaskets are replaced by default. Of course there is the cost.Another, 1. Remove plugs, does water flow out, yes = leak is in the head, exhaust areas, your block is safe. 2. Is water in the rear cylinders only? Yes, its possibly coming from the exhaust. If its one of the forward cylinders, then its probably the head. Note that a forward cylinder can fill, overflow out of the exhaust and run into the rear cylinders.3. Drain water out of the exhaust manifold.4. Remove riser first, do you see water in the exhaust manifold? If its full, you have a bad exhaust.5. Remove the exhaust riser and manifold. Fit the flusher and water supply ( a good pressure helps). Observe the spark plug and exhaust manifolds for water flow, will show if the crack is bad enough and has not yet rusted over. This helps to confirm its the block and not exhaust manifolds.Lastly, you'll need the manual. I don't have the 4.3 manual to provide the torque and spec values.Good luck, hope you can fix it soon.


      • #4
        Re: where to start? water in oil

        I wanted to post on this because, I just went through the same thing (I had a cracked block - bad winterization).. but Qystan pretty much covered everything.


        • #5
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          Re: where to start? water in oil

          the proverbial hole in the water..in which to pour money into. I am not real familiar w/ your system. Open cooling or closed cooling. One uses the water from the lake, river or ocean to cool. The other uses coolant which is indirectly cooled by the fresh water in the lake, river or ocean. Salt water is hard on metaliac parts. Before the heads are pulled. Check out the exhaust manifolds and risers. You can pressure test these yourself with air or even attach a water hose to them and check for leaks. 15 -20 psi is all you would need. Your home H20 supply runs from 35 to 85 Lbs. I've tested these w/a shop-vac having the hoses inverted, (switched) in a wheelbarrow full of water, but don't tell anybody. If These are okay, proceed to a compression test on the engine cylinders. There are lots of posts on this situation. David mentioned winterization, not a problem here in the desert, we have other problems, like melting plastic. These posts have helped ME out very much. Wish you the best. steve n carol