winterize searay with mercruiser 7.4/bravo 3

dave01searay

Recruit
Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Messages
1
new to boating with 1st boat and 1st time to winterize. I've put in fuel stabilizer, changed oil and filter, changed fuel filter and gear lube. i drained the block and exhaust manifolds by removing 4 blue drain plugs. Now wondering about AF options. Am i best to remove hoses and dump AF in rather than using muffs? If so please specify which hoses to remove to be safe for the winter in kansas. Also where is a good place for 7.4 engine diagrams, I'm still learning what is what. Also please advise on fogging the engine. is this step just for carb engines or for mpi motors? thanks for your help.
 

cr2k

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2009
Messages
3,730
Re: winterize searay with mercruiser 7.4/bravo 3

Don't forget to drain your heat exchanger (power steering) and leave the drive down.
 

iamthunderman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
111
Re: winterize searay with mercruiser 7.4/bravo 3

Where did you find all the drain plugs?

I have only found 2 on the sides, none for the block :-(
 

crewscontrol

Seaman
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
52
Re: winterize searay with mercruiser 7.4/bravo 3

I have a 2001 270DA. This is what I do. Add fuel stabilizer. Fill fuel tank to top with no-ethanol gas. Change engine oil. Change oil filter. Change Bravo III oil. Remove the 5 (I think) drain plugs to drain water out of engine (2) and manifolds (2) and PS cooler (1). Make sure you poke a piece of wire into each hole. Accumulated crud often keeps all the water from draining. Remove the hoses from the raw water pump and the "cool fuel" heat exchanger if you have one and drain water. Replace all hoses and plugs. Turn on onboard water pump and let it run until all water is pumped from the water tank. Open all faucets and the water heater drain and let all water out. To make sure all water drains out of the water heater, open the relief valve to let air in.

Something many people forget is to purge the head and holding tank. I flush the head around 10 times with clear water to (hopefully) remove all solids from the pipes, hoses, and vacuum system. If you don't do this, you may have a bad surprise next spring when you (try to) flush the head. Then I open the Y valve and pump everything possible out of the holding tank. Finally I put a gallon of pink propylene glycol antifreeze in the toilet and flush it. This puts antifreeze in all the pipes and hoses that you cannot (don't want to) unhook and drain.

I made an adapter from a piece of hose and fittings that I can hook to my air compressor. One end is connected to the air compressor and the other end is connected to the dockside water inlet on the rear of the boat. With around 30PSI of air pressure I open all faucets and purge the entire water system with compressed air until nothing but air comes out of any of the faucets and the water heater. Don't forget to purge water out of the transom rinse-off shower, and wash down faucets if you have them. Also operate the head (toilet) water flush valve a couple of times to purge all water from it. (Ask me why)

Then I take the same compressed air adapter, add another home made piece, and insert it into the AC water OUTLET on the port side of my boat. With around 10PSI of compressed air, I purge all water out of the AC condenser, hoses, and the AC water pump with compressed air. You have to manually drain the AC water strainer. The water is expelled out of the sea water pickup under the boat. I have a centrifugal water pump on my AC. Don't do this if you have a flexible impeller AC water pump. You may destroy an impeller type pump with compressed air.

I know all this sounds as if it will take forever to do. Total time from start to finish is less than 4 hours. Once the engine water is drained, engine oil and filter are changed, and once the Bravo III oil is changed, everything else takes less than an hour. But I have been doing it since 2001.
 

jmarty10

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
560
Re: winterize searay with mercruiser 7.4/bravo 3

To answer you question on diagrams, try the mercury marine website. If you have your engine serial # and engine type it may show you a pretty good diagram of your boats cooling system. It had a pretty good one for my 4.3l.
 

OldNBold51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
169
Re: winterize searay with mercruiser 7.4/bravo 3

I am living proof that just because you remove the plugs doesn't mean you remove all the water from engine.

there are at least 2 gallons (guessing) of water in there, maybe more. The block's drain plug only yielded a trickle of water for me and I let it go at that which gave me a cracked block when it froze. I should have blown air into the block drain plug to get the sediment out of the way that was blocking these plugs.

I know better now.
 

Alpheus

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
1,757
Re: winterize searay with mercruiser 7.4/bravo 3

Where did you find all the drain plugs?

I have only found 2 on the sides, none for the block :-(

BigBlockDrainPlugLocations.jpg





I am living proof that just because you remove the plugs doesn't mean you remove all the water from engine.

there are at least 2 gallons (guessing) of water in there, maybe more. The block's drain plug only yielded a trickle of water for me and I let it go at that which gave me a cracked block when it froze. I should have blown air into the block drain plug to get the sediment out of the way that was blocking these plugs.

I know better now.


Compressed air probably would not have helped in your situation. You should have used a piece of stiff wire to run in the drain holes to clear out the rust and sediment to allow your block to drain completely...
 
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