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Outdrive pressure test failed!

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  • Outdrive pressure test failed!

    I don't know much about the boat when I got the boat the lower was separate from the upper so I checked the seals on the top of the lower and put the lower unit back on the upper. I then did a pressure test and air leaks out somewhere as fast as it goes in. What is my next step to find the leak? How hard is it to replace the seals in a Bravo one? Again the seals on the top of the lower looked okay but I guess that doesn't mean anything it could still be leaking from one of them are there other seals in the lower that I need to worry about? What SEALs in the upper what I need to replace and how hard is it?

  • #2
    What is the seal on number 5 for ?

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    • #3
      The outdrive is completely empty of Drive fluid and so is the reservoir is there any way the air could be escaping out of the reservoir since its cap is a vent?

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      • #4
        page 3B-24 of the manual
        NO PERSONAL QUESTIONS, THIS IS WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR.

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        • #5
          Hahaha BT....thank you. I had to wait till I got back in front of my laptop. Thank you.

          My boat doesn't have a speedometer mechanism that goes into that port on the outdrive does that mean I can just leave it open? Im thinking since its a speedometer seal there is no chance of water getting into the outdrive from it.
          Last edited by cableguy1979; December 6th, 2017, 09:58 AM.

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          • #6
            and put the lower unit back on the upper.
            Ayuh,.... Did ya put the quad-ring 'round the oil passage 'tween the upper, 'n lower,..??

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            • #7
              Yes I assume you mean the little Oring that is inside the big oring on the lower but yes it is there.
              Last edited by cableguy1979; December 6th, 2017, 06:14 PM.

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              • #8
                Okay I took the reservoir line and blocked it Off with a bolt and a clamp it definitely slowed the leak down but it's still leaking. Is there anything else that I could have missed besides the reservoir? Now it leaks down in about 30 seconds.

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                • #9
                  If you clamped the bolt threads it will leak up the threads. You need a smooth bolt, or round punch. Hope that's all it is.
                  If ya can't fix it with a hammer,ya got yourself an electrical problem.

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                  • #10
                    Well I used a bolt that was threaded but short threads to a smooth shaft and then clamped it. ill spray it with soapy water and see if it leaks there....If it doesn't is it safe to say I need to remove the outdrive and test? If it wasn't for having to buy a seal kit and another round of $30 performance gear oil I would just fill it and see if it leaks out.

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                    • #11
                      you normally test a drive off the boat and you test it before you add the oil .If you had it filled and were losing pressure you should see a active oil leak.If I had to guess it will be the top cover O ring . turn it upside down and look for an oil leak
                      NO PERSONAL QUESTIONS, THIS IS WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR.

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                      • #12
                        Well its on the boat and empty of oil. I have put it together as I got the boat without the lower attached. I guess I can fill the outdrive and try and pressurize it again. That should tell me if its in the upper half or lower half....If I don't see oil leaking anywhere Ill take it off and turn it upside down and/or pressure test it off the boat. Was trying to get by without having to buy more oil and seals.

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                        • #13
                          I doubt $5.77 is going to be a deal breaker removing the drive
                          NO PERSONAL QUESTIONS, THIS IS WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR.

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                          • #14
                            I feel like a idiot everything for a bravo is usually high. The seal kit for a alpha is a lot more expensive..i looked and the upper seal kit is $8.... here is what I'm gonna do. I'm gonna fill the drive with cheap gear lube, back it down the ramp look for leaks then start the boat and look for leaks again and let the engine come up to temp. Once im satisfied the transom and engine are good I'm gonna cut it off bring it home drain the outdrive pull it off the boat and put new seals in during this long winter. There isn't even a prop on the drive so it won't move from the trailer while in the water.

                            Does anyone see any reason why i can't use cheap gear oil for 20 30 minutes of run time on a trailer. I may put it in and out of gear once or twice to make sure it don't need a shift cable?

                            My whole goal is to get the boat to the water so i can check the transom for leaks and see if the engine rpm will settle down with fresh gas. It has a lower pickup only and a flush kit is $100 bucks and so are the muffs. Once this is done and i know the motor outdrive and transom are good ill put a new seal kit in and fresh high performance gear oil in.
                            Last edited by cableguy1979; December 7th, 2017, 06:04 PM.

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                            • #15
                              Sign up today
                              You won't be able to test the shift cable/cutout without a prop, it needs a load to work properly.
                              If ya can't fix it with a hammer,ya got yourself an electrical problem.

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