1977 mercruiser 233 lower shift cable

Odegardc

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I have a 1977 mcm 233 mercruiser serial number 4883963 with what I believe is a mercruiser 1 drive. I thought it was an alpha one. Serial number is 4794847. It is unclear on what shift cable I need. It stripped inside the cable end guide where it goes into the anchor screw. I'm not sure if I need the 63" cable with a support tube (18-2158). Or the 54" without one (18-2248). I've gotten a lot of different part numbers. The 18-2603 comes with all the gaskets and cable slide I need, but is for an alpha one. I feel like I just need the core wire, anchor screw, and new cable slide for my issue. As my set screw is corroded. Can I just get a core wire and feed it through my existing sleeve? Also the 18-2614 are the correct gasket and o rings for my outdrive? I have no oem part numbers to go off. Thanks so much for the help. I've been researching cables for days now.
 
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alldodge

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Here is the breakdown for your drive
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/233-1975-1977-4200500-up

You do not want to replace just the core wire, the core wears into the jacket. Once the cable has wore into the jacket you cannot adjust the cable correctly.

Your gasket set is Merc 27-64818Q4
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/64818q4-gasket-set-drive

Your shift cable ket is Merc 865436A02
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/865436a02-cable-assy-shift

Note in this link there are two item 18 and 0ne item 19, but all use the same part number as listed previously above (its a kit)
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/30840/1584/0

Now if you want to use aftermarket parts and not Merc, just search with the Merc part numbers to find how they compare to yours
 

Bondo

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Can I just get a core wire and feed it through my existing sleeve?

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... No, you can't replace just the core wire, as the outer casin' gets a groove worn in it, causin' too much slop, 'n ya can't properly adjust it,...
 

Odegardc

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You guys are awesome. Thanks for the help! So the cable is attached at the bell housing on the front side? Vs alpha drives are on the aft side? So I don't require the special socket tool to remove it? I wasn't specificity looking for aftermarket. Do you think aftermarket is just as good. Also I assume I pull it out through the bell housing. Do I install from the aft? I've read to pull the core out. Reinsert it from the top. Then pull out the sleeve. So I'd have a wire to follow reinstalling the new sleeve.
 

Bondo

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So the cable is attached at the bell housing on the front side? Vs alpha drives are on the aft side?

If yer cable screws into the bellhousin' from the front, ya need a 1/4" straight thread pipe tap to cut new threads for the aft loadin' cable,...
So I don't require the special socket tool to remove it?

Naw, no need for a special socket anymore,... never was to remove the old cable,...
Just snip off the offendin' plastic nub, 'n unscrew it with a 9/16" socket,....

I wasn't specificity looking for aftermarket. Do you think aftermarket is just as good.

Not only, No,..... 'ell NO,...

The new cables, the plastic nub, unscrews with yer fingers outa the casin',...
Use a regular socket, then screw the nub back in,....
 

Odegardc

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Sorry for asking. But I'm not understanding some of what you're saying. If I get the proper cable for my model unit. I don't need to tap my threads? I can put it in the same way I took the old one out? And what's your answer on the aftermarket. I'll probably go with what Alldodge pointed out. Seems the safest bet.
 

Bt Doctur

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get the correct tap, its a lot easier. and install the latest aft entry cable
 

alldodge

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If you get the new style cable, it needs to be installed from the front. The threads are chased (cleaned) to allow cable to go in. OEM parts are better then aftermarket in this case. If you happen to find the old style (not made any more), then it can be installed as original.

There are many parts which aftermarket are fine but most would not use them in this location, same with trim sender/switch.

Alpha shift cable.jpg
 

Odegardc

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Hey when I change the cable out. Do I take the casing out at the same time as the cable. And vise versa when putting in. Or do you do one at a time?
 

Odegardc

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I saw the tap has to be straight thread 1/4"-18 NPSF. Does it have to be a quicksilver part or any straight thread tap will do. Thanks!
 

alldodge

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Hey when I change the cable out. Do I take the casing out at the same time as the cable. And vise versa when putting in. Or do you do one at a time?

One at a time, and don't forget to tape the plastic wrap off the old cable before pulling it out. Also attach a string to the end to help pull it back in place

I saw the tap has to be straight thread 1/4"-18 NPSF. Does it have to be a quicksilver part or any straight thread tap will do. Thanks!

Any straight tap will do
 

khe

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When installing the new generation shift cable, you will need the special socket (or make one from a 9/16" spark plug socket with the rubber removed.). You'll need to grind down the outside diameter of the socket so that it clears the casting so you don't cross thread the new cable end. There is a specific number of threads to leave exposed so that you will be able to properly adjust the shift cable. I couldn't find it by searching but Bondo or Bt Doctur will probably know.
 

Bt Doctur

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manual says "no more than 2 threads showing"
a good thin wall socket or grind one down to fit
 

Bondo

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you will need the special socket (

Ayuh,.... I've been usin' a plain ole craftsman 3/8" drive, 9/16" socket,.....

The little white plastic liner extension is screwed into place, so just unscrew it, install the cable, 'n screw the white piece back in,....

No need for the extra long/ deep socket anymore,....
 

CamaroMan

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It can be very hard to slide the new cable thru the shift bellows.. oil/lube doesnt work very well, the rubber just combs it off, however grease works like magic!

make sure the brass nut bottoms out to about 1 thread showing at most. You will need a 9/16" deep plug socket with the nut part on the end so u can tighten it with a crescent wrench with sheath going thru it (dont try 14mm, it just doesnt go over the nut :/ ). Some aftermarket cables dont seem to have the nylon coating over the wire (which in my opinion prolongs the life of the cable).. You will see it in the pics, if u see a plain steel cable look for one that is coated in a white/cream nylon (im talking about the inner core wire). Im sure a spiral wound wire will wear into the sheath alot quicker than a smooth plastic part.

Also - apply some grease on the inner wore when u push it thru to keep it lubed, and cover the brass fitting with tape tas well so it doesnt pick up muck from the bilge when u feed it thru..

in short:
clean drive (re-tap to the newer style if u have to)
replace bellows highly recommended
insert outer core from behind and thru bellows (the small end is a TIGHT fit, use grease here!).
Once sheath is thru bellows gently find transom hole and proceed to shove it thru. Better to have someone guide it as u push or do it in steps.
I would apply some teflon tape and blue loctite to brass nut before screwing it in (opinions may vary here)
slide thru inner core - make sure the **** block with allen nut can spin but has NO fwd/backward play.
Secure allen wire safety wire
Re-attach bits at top and set the cable..

u cant really muck it up or put it in wrong -
 
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Odegardc

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Thank you guys for the help. I got a bit overwhelmed and talked to a marine shop nearby. They got ahold of an original shift cable. A bit more pricey. But had them install it anyway.
 
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