Teardown has begun

[FreeBeeTony]

Not sure if you guys missed it........but the engine is free and turns over easily w/ the starter.
Made my 1st pass at cleaning up the pistons and cylinder bores. Used 1000 grit paper........should I go more aggressive?
Should I try to hone myself?

 

[shaw520]

I cant see how you can do a proper hone with pistons in place,... have you mic'ed the cylinders to see if they are within spec, if you can catch a fingernail on the 'ridge' (top of the ring to wall surface) then theyre most like likely worn beyond specs

 

[FreeBeeTony]

It only has 600Hrs on it...........doubt they are that worn that much, but will try the fingernail test.

 

[Rick Stephens]

600 hours is average engine use for 12 years of boating. If you disassemble, you should use a hone and re-ring if the bores are within spec, rebore, new pistons and rings if the bores are out of spec.

 

[FreeBeeTony]

May test the boating gods on this one.........
Thinking of having the heads re-done, replacing the manifolds/risers and hoping for the best!

Don't really want to pull the block.

 

[Lou C]

That's basically what I did, I knew it is a gamble, so I took some good hi-res pics of the block & pistons and showed them to a local boat mechanic I trust and Kevin at SK Speed. Both thought it was worth trying to rebuild it as long as the threads in the block were good and the deck surface was not warped. I did not have rust in the cyls but for sure had water in the oil. From what I could see, ie the cam lobes, lifters all looked really good.
​I thought if it gives me a few more seasons, fine, then if need be I can get a short block from Rapido or other and transfer these heads etc on to that. Of course the most trouble free option is a new crate engine but I did this more for the learning process than anything else.

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Lou C

​Went to SK Speed tonight.
Ended up speaking w/ Kevin......very pleasant guy.
​When I told him the heads were from a boat he said: this isn't going to be good,
​When I showed them to him he said they looked good being FWC'd.
​I even showed him pics of the cylinders/pistons........didn't seem to concerned.
​He did say more than once why did this happen.......what we all want to know.
​I still have to attribute it to the manifolds which I am going to replace w/the risers.

 

[shaw520]

Now that you have the heads off, its a bit more involved to pressure test the cooling system,...but before spending a bunch of money on rebuilding im sure he will advise you to pressure test the heads individually,... no sense in rebuilding the heads if one or both are cracked,... if heads check out ok you may also want to pressure test block for leaks. The pictures are showing antifreeze in all cylinders,...is that due to spillage or is that the way they were upon removal.

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Dropped the heads off last night at SK Speed, hope to have them by next w/e.

 

[Lou C]

Glad you went there Kevin really knows his stuff....
​Lookin' at your first batch of pix, I'd guess more so that the risers failed and dumped salt water right down the center exhaust passage, or maybe that block off plate/gasket could have leaked, but your manifolds being closed cooled were probably not the problem. However, seein' as how much rust there is in em now, you'll be replacing the whole mess. I'm hopin' you can do this job for the price of the machine shop work, new Fel Pro gaskets and a set of Barr manifolds and risers, that's a good outcome!
​For my job, the engine repairs (re-man heads, new APR manifold and head bolts, gaskets) were about $800.
​I also replaced the whole exhaust system, converting it over to the center riser Volvo style ($1200 including Barr manifolds/risers and V/P hoses and exhaust pipes). Also added a new circulating pump.
​The fact that your engine was always closed cooled has to help here....