I have continuity on the purple, red and yellow/ red all the way back to the engine. I have voltage up to the red wire at the switch. If I move the starboard red wire over to port, everything comes on. For whatever reason it seems my red wire on this side is no good even though it has voltage and continuity to the motor. Makes no sense at all.
I've seen corrosion do that - it's like putting a power resistor into the circuit. The circuit will still carry the milliamps that a DMM uses to check continuity but it won't pass any useful power. Continuity checks are very helpful but they aren't a universal test: they WILL tell you if a circuit is open but only PROBABLY that a circuit is functionally closed.
Try bypassing the red wire temporarily to feed clean power from the breaker output to that terminal of the switch.
Conversely, you could run any other device as a load off the switch-end of the red wire. An H3 bulb (handheld spotlight) will draw enough current to tell you if that's the issue. If the voltage drops right off with the bulb powered (regardless of whether the bulb lights or not), replace the red wire.
Then, to positively eliminate the breaker, pull that power off the breaker input and see if you can duplicate the problem. Be aware that, while testing, that wire will have no overcurrent protection - if it works, don't leave it like that !
It seems that, when a lot of people see a red wire, they just HAVE to tap into it for power...and that creates a lot of problems.